itu

@bassman7755 I think you could go far higher. 7 Hz is very low, you can go easily up to 30 Hz without losing anything significant or important. You would still cover audible frequencies.

KMA Iron Ether Onkart Gromt FI from Panda I have to add tce and their Toneprint, and Darkglass.

The last part is seriously fun!

3 dB / doubling the distance: 1, 2, 4, 8, 16... m

Start from any shop that sells basses. Play, feel with an open mind and find few things you like in different instruments. Come back with those attributes and we will steer you.

There's another point in parallel wiring: if the other element happens to break, some of the load still remains.

I already see smoke... If your other amp has tube power amp, wire the cab to fit it. Solid state is more immune to load.

I think Tacuma used Steinberger (L-2?) already with Cosmetics. The white one is clearly a Steinberger: shape, three knobs in a row (EMG electronics, maybe the tilt eq), name in the body. Model is probably from early 90's.

...because Alfa and Renault, but how about BR green? And which brand?

Input of an amp, one or two choices. You can try both. If the gain adjustment is sufficient, use whichever you find functional. It is not uncommon to put an extra resistance to the other input. Even though the inputs are named as active and passive, the bass output can be high or low, no matter the bass electronics. Please try. Bass output impedance (Z) can be high or low, but most amp inputs can digest both. Sometimes piezo basses are complicated to the amp input. This may be handled with a buffer, an extra preamp, or an effect acting as a buffer. The strings can be built with thinner or thicker core. That affects the tension. There are not too many materials available, therefore the proportions of the different parts change the string tension. Or simply the diameter: try 30-90, and some set that starts from 50. From twang to plunk.

When I had a copy of Status (Washburn) I used double ball end Rotosound Funkmasters (606?) and they were always exact length.

My Dragonfly has a battery saving function and it goes to deep sleep after certain time. I changed the 2 x AA batteries after 18 months of use, and they were still in decent condition. I do not see an issue keeping the wire connected, but the consumption has to be very low.

Heavy duty use, there's probably some kind of a thermal fuse that needs to cool down. Are you driving the amp at max, or close? Is there lots of space around that the amp can cool well? Remember, the pot positions do not tell much about the power. Addition: If you push lots of lows out the amp will certainly warm up. Low end needs a lot of energy and that means watts. A picture of your settings and the casing might reveal something.

Try an old one: - H&K Bass/Crunch/Blues Master and Cream Machine - SWR Interstellar Overdrive

...except brown noise. And funny smell, like jazz. (Stolen from Frank Z.)

Can we see, so could you share some sharp pictures? We might be able to help you forward.

This is one very good point, although I would write this: "Hi-Z basses have different response from some pedals than lo-Z." The pedals I have also seen the biggest difference with response are OD/fuzz/dist, and compressors. For some reason the signal level doesn't seem to be the issue but the bass' output impedance.

I made one from 6082 first, but something happened and I had to make another. This time from Alumec-89, which is far harder than the previous Al, but very reasonable to machine. This still lacks colour (anodized black) and some finishing, but you get the idea. I didn't make those DBE slots, because there are lots of ordinary strings available.

Pink Pastel Purple Ped's Sherwood green

That bass is in right address!

Last time I bought a truss rod, it was a two way, and there was no way to put any washer to it. The hex end was welded to the end. A hint: The thread was dry, there was no oil at all. There would not have been a possibility to grease it after it was built to the neck.

The answer is hydrogen! What? If you are really interested in "active" bass (should be low impedance, lo-Z), it might be feasible to understand the signal path: pickups - blend - vol - tone stack - output Many, not all, of these "active" basses have only battery powered tone stack (two band shelving, three band, semiparametric...). Simple and cheap. The parts of that stack cost a few pounds, minimum. An interesting point is that people talk about "active pickups". What's that? An ordinary pickup consists of a coil (copper wire) and a magnet, or few. The steel string induces more voltage in the coil, if the magnet is powerful and there are lots of wire in the coil. When there is much wire, the output is high - and the frequency response is narrow. EMG produces similar pickups, but they save copper. They can also use magnets which are weaker. But this equals less output - and wider frequency response = more high end. Low end is easy, high end isn't. Because EMG produces less output, they have built a buffer inside the pickup. That buffer amplifies the signal to the same level as with high impedance (hi-Z, "passive") pickups, but keeps the signal impedance low, and response wide. Many of us know, that any pot (vol, blend, tone) in the signal path affects the response of the signal. G-word players have used treble bleeders for ages, because even vol pot reduces high end. Remove all pots from the signal path, and get some more sizzle. If you change pot-based adjustments from the signal path, you can keep the signal as it is. True active circuitry adjusts amplification (done with similar pots, but affecting elsewhere) instead of turning the signal partially to the ground, and losing high end. Are you still with me? There are very few mixers out there, like some EMGs (not all), and John East. There are also many basses with a simple tone stack and high impedance adjustments (vol, blend). This means that the signal from the pickups is degraded before the tone stack. If you want an "active" bass, you need to decide, what does it mean for you: lo-Z pickups - active mixing - active tone stack OR hi-Z pickups - blend - vol - active tone stack ...or something in between?

Mirror is your dear friend. You can see, what is happening in the fretboard and the right hand side. Adjust the strap from the feel, not the "my knees are not seen, so I have an attitude". @chris_b had very important points: bad setup will certainly drive you towards bad habits. Bass is slightly more ergonomic than say a violin (look at their heads!), but it is up to you to take care of your position while playing.

If you want to try, and go really slow, take a big wrench (Bahco, anyone?). Turn the tuner leaf slowly. If it seems to turn back, you're fine. But turn it as slow as you can. A quick bend may kill the leaf. One nice set of stuff you have there.