itu

True, and well said. My modest thought was to give an idea, that the change in impedance requires something from the amp, too. Yes, in this case pretty much exaggerated. Could you please tell main differences between a tiny home amp and some 50 A workhorse? Copper traces, components... That duty cycle is of interest, and many - including me - tend to forget this.

I think that... Because people mix power (W) and loudness (dB), these kind of questions come up every now and then. Wattage means how much energy a power amp can push to the load (a cab). If the load stays the same, doubling the power will increase loudness around 3 dB. This is pretty much the lowest difference you can hear: from 500 W to 1000 W the difference is up to 3 dB (if the load stays the same). Power (wattage) consists of impedance (Z, meaning resistance, inductance, and capacitance; this is frequency dependent), voltage (V, volts), and current (A, amperes). Volts and amperes can be easily calculated, as we already know both the impedance of a cab and the wattage of an amp. Let's say it's 400 W, and Z = 8 ohms. I = U / R [A = V / Z] and P = U x I [W = V x A] P = U x U / Z, or U x U = P x Z 400 W x 8 ohm = 3200 VV => U = 56.5 V I = P / U => 400 W / 56.5 V = 7 A Now is this clear? Here we have an 8 ohm cab, and an amp that pushes up to 7 amperes to that cab. The next step is to understand, what happens, when impedance is halved (the equation assumes that the power amp is capable to push double wattage to that 4 ohm cab): 800 W x 4 ohm = 3200 VV => U = 56.5 V BUT the big thing here is this: Current has to double, as I = P / U => 800 / 56.5 = 14 A (!) That amount of current means far bigger components that can handle big currents = heat. It is not so uncommon that the amp is not able to cool itself down with such currents. In worst case the amp section may melt. When we go further down to lower impedances, 2 ohms equals 28 A, and 1 ohm equals 56 A! A very rough wire diameter table would look like this: 7 A - 1 mm2, AWG 18 14 A - 2.5 mm2, AWG 14 28 A - 6 mm2, AWG 10 56 A - 25 mm2, AWG 4 (components have to be enormous!) You should understand this: it is far easier to increase voltage than reduce impedance. If the amp is not capable of pushing energy to a super low Z cab, 8 ohm cab may actually be the louder one!

The one with an MM4 Status neck, an EMG DC40 neck pickup*, and a J body is naturally Ibiza. I already have parts for the bridge Sustainiac driver, but have been lazy... should build it to this particular bass. *I know, 35 i.e. 3.5" wide is for 4 string.

Materials like Luminova, and Superluminova (Sr based, non-radioactive) need just ordinary light. You want more power, use some light including UV.

You want to mix 8 and 4 to get 2.67. Do you want to get more vol, or do you just happen to have two cabs? If loudness is low, you can use nearly whichever load. But when you turn the master past 9 o'clock, you need to think about the power amp: the lower the impedance, the higher the current. When current rises, components start to warm up. Very big power equals very hot parts, and can lead to melt down.

This has been here earlier: https://acoustics.org/pressroom/httpdocs/137th/fleischer.html

Any metal stick/rod that fits in, is good. Round, hexagonal, you name it.

If I remember correctly from acoustic lectures and the story by Ned Steinberger: 1) you could tune the body and 2) the neck to move the dead spot from certain position. Ned said that he wanted to remove material from the headstock, and the dead spots started to move upwards. After removing the headstock, the dead spots were gone. There were metal (brass?) plates for sale years ago to be attached to the headstock to enhance sound of the instrument. That would change the tuning of a uniform rod (neck). It does not act like a string that is attached to the bass from both ends. https://pages.mtu.edu/~suits/rodvib.html

I think Victor Bailey did his most impressive work with a Pensa-Suhr. Pino with his fretless MM? Where was that fretless Jaco model when he was active? Geddy Lee and Rick, anyone? Where was Fender when these guys rocketed to stardom?

Some of those lacquered wires have nylon or similar thread inside. They melt or burn, while you need to burn that lacquer from the wire to solder the copper. Hate that material.

We dont need another hero.pdf (This is already elsewhere here.) I saw her once live, marvelous show from an incredible artist.

That Jabanez looks fab. Good colours and all. I suppose it weighs a lot?

Try a little bit of reverb after dist/fuzz. My need for delay is long... a looper is really good for training.

True, and a good point. Quite many combos have only the woofer, so my point was a simplification, as was my short text in general.

Hard floor... a magic carpet ride, maybe?

Beware pops with such switches. But maybe a ser/par might do the trick?

Sessionette 100 (15" combo) GK 200MB (12" 100 W second gen combo) Peavey Databass (15" 450 W combo) Glockenklang Soul (2x10" 450 W combo) Soul head from the combo and alusonic 2x12" cab GK had excellent sound. Soul combo has top sound too, but weighs a metric ton. I separated the head from the combo to a rack case and bought the alusonic. Easier to carry.

A PA cab, a powered speaker without the preamp of a bass amp. It still may have a simple eq, or some adjustments, like gain. Full range means wider response than of a bass combo. Flat response should mean flat, but I say that it is still far from hifi.

Really... we are talking about few decibels... if the 4 ohm version is much more sensitive, I'd buy that. Otherwise not. Sometimes an 8 ohm impedance speaker may be louder than a 4 ohm counterpart.

Ser/par? Then there's a good chance to have switches at hand which do nothing. That was the reason I suggested a rotary switch.

A g-word type of approach might work, too: the 5 pos switch, maybe?

What? There are only very, very few preamps for two pickups only. Most of the preamps are after simple blend and vol, or vol and vol. In a three pickup version you could have three volumes. If you want to put an active tone stack after every pickup, you just need more space. It seems that you have not checked my simple drawings of the bass signal path, once more: pickups - blend (or vol) - vol - tone stack - output In your case you just exclude the blend and put in there three volumes. The tone stack is up to you: a battery operated preamp, or a capacitor based, simple passive tone x 1 - 3.

Which screws? Machine, wood? For machine screws nearly any oil is better than no oil at all. The only exception is if you need thread lock (nail lacquer for soft, thread lock for hard). Thicker oils and greases tend to stick better in threads.

The first sentence should point out that the difference in dBs is minimal. So many watts, so little decibels. The second comment is feasible. Usually if your main cab is 8 ohms or more, another cab is a potential possibility for more loudness.

I have written a few times about signal path. Please find it if in need. The system that consists of many switches and maybe even ser/par option might be usable, if you make it happen with a rotary switch. Otherwise there will be many options, where the sound is off, or switches are excluded from the line. That would mean that you'd need to learn to walk in the switch jungle. I would start from feasible sounds: what is functional, what is not. After the options are charted, someone familiar with electronics finds the parts you need and puts them together. Otherwise there will be non-usable situations, and you may cut the sound in a band context just by accident.