itu

What I remember from some age old papers, and collegial comments (when I was working in a broadcasting company), fuses had these abbreviations from German. I think there were some old norms/standards (DIN = Deutsche Institut für Normung) that were originally DIN and have been later updated to Europäische Norm (EN). That time lag sounds good, and easier to remember than Träge. My colleagues used the term slow blow, although that is probably not a standardized term.

By the way, before I start an active search, is there a big difference between DOD's FX25 and FX25B? Few component level changes or something crucial between those two?

The answer is too short, yes. But to be honest, if there are no trials of different gauges (and materials, and string height, and...), how can the op be sure of what is really functional? I have put quite a lot of money to different string sets just to find optimal sets for my basses: flats, 30-90, BEAD, CFBbEbAb, halfrounds and so on. At the moment I love SS 40-95 (-120) sets on most of my basses, but it does not work everywhere. I like PSD (piano string design), but they are not as common as basic RWs. If I need to change between PSD and ordinary strings, the bridge has to be adjusted for obvious reasons. My strings have a lifetime of around 4-6 months in a bass (exception: DB). Your preferences surely vary from mine. Every suggestion here is subjective. Therefore it is very feasible to suggest trials, too, and find and make personal choices. I wish there was just "one and only" solution for everybody. 45-105 is a good start, but just a start.

Original Affirmas.

T = Träge = slow blow F = Flink = fast These are originally German terms. About the diameter of a cable: Usually it is safer to use slightly larger diameteter than that specified, if the cable is in active use. Here active means gigging round the country (and for some of you: the world). As cables will be bent a lot, at some time the copper will be chipped to smaller pieces and the ability to carry the specified current will be less. I have been amazed pretty often that so many bands have invested to equipment, but not to functional cables. When I joined one band long ago, their cables were just a mess in two or three plastic bags. Some cable was always missing, and the usage was harsh. I asked for a permission to buy new cables and some usable bag for them. The price tag made them thinking that these are serious stuff, and should be treated equally. I also love Velcros, as cables are much easier to handle individually than as a tangled mess.

The neck needs very little bending to make it sharp or flat. If the bass is played in another way than it is stored, the difference may be seen this way. An example: Put the bass to a table and tune it. Take it to your lap and check the tuning again.

I think @GisserD still offers them.

Don't continue. The only option. Find someone with proper tools. Friend, neighbour, relative...

My six string - but it still would be bass - could be a Linc Luthier. I do like the looks of some older semi acoustic jazzes, like L-5, Byrdland, D'Angelicos and similar.

Acupuncture while playing, it seems to be possible.

I love the small body Bean, but that Artist is a real gem! Lovely!

Do you have a colour picture of your set, please? Coat...

First one, with a Kahler? Second one, Bean bass? Third one, the Artist, please tell me about it.

30-90 is super light, 40-95 (125) is standard for my basses. SS RW.

I am doing several roundings, and without testing the set my results are only guesstimations. My text is long to clarify details - and if there are grave mistakes, anyone can fix them. I checked one battery, named as Fossibot. It just came up, but the important thing is to understand the specs. Yours claims 1 kWh capacity, and 1.8 kW max output. Don't care about that 2.7 kW, that is probably marketing. We are not welding anything. PA consumes something like 400 W in total at full speed + monitor. Markbass is 300 W, and therefore consumes maybe 500 W max. A 50 W valve amp needs 150 W. (Hopefully no one will connect lights to the system!) The numbers should be rounded upwards: this system can draw up to 1500 W. Your battery claims to be able to push 1.8 kW, so we are just on the safe side. An audio system rarely draws this much energy for a long time. Usually the peaks are measured in milliseconds (ms). Overall power consumption could be in the ballpark of 20 - 30 % of the total power. This would mean some 300 - 500 W continuous. lower power: 1 kWh capacity should be divided with 300 W continuous, and round the result downwards: 1 kWh / 0.3 kW = 3 hours of continuous operation. higher power: Divide the capacity with 500 W continuous, and round the result downwards: 1 kWh / 0.5 kW = 1.5 - 2 hours of continuous operation. This is because the claimed battery capacity is not linear, and is less than its maximum at the end of its drain cycle. If there's some extra power drawn, the capacity is used much faster. An outdoor gig will draw far more energy than a low volume pub gig. I would try the unit at the rehearsal to get an idea of the capacity, and the unit's functionality if there are possible noises, or any artefacts. Shorter cables are better, position the power bank in between you all. To repeat myself, my guesstimations are only ballpark figures, and have to be checked by a pro. @agedhorse, or @Bill Fitzmaurice, please comment.

IE Nimbus. But sadly the sentence: "There are not many reverbs..." holds on IE, too.

My basses are made for playing. P is not for me, not only because of its ugly design. J neck is too thin. List is long but these are just my preferences. I do not know where are people playing their instruments, but I use a bass that fits me, not the other way around. (I have bought just few basses without test ride. Three times I have managed to find a gem.)

17C may be manufacturer's date code or similar. 20 kohm is clear. Other alphabets are non standard, as there are many different ways of telling things: "A" may be "audio taper" i.e. logarithmic, but it can also be linear. That C6, you took a picture from the other side only which says 85 degree centigrade. This is the max temp it works. The numbers on the other side tell the parametres needed.

FX loop, use a cable to override lousy jack switches?

Salsa hasn't been mentioned here. Many bands use Ampeg Baby Bass.

Reverb works well with fuzz. Hear reverb also in Duffy's Mercy.

300 AUD sounds very decent. VAT + tax does not. That unit is still definitely maybe.

What I liked was the humble text: "I don't know when this will be ready" instead of empty promises. The unit itself is somewhat pricey, but small production runs tend to cost pretty much. HPF is a nice extra in this straightforward unit. The story of the EQ is of interest: I tried an Ampeg side by side with a Glockenklang, and they did sound really different! But here the sound from a system (an amp and a cab) that can be tweaked with the two band EQ - it requires a bold user that turns the knobs until a wanted sound is achieved. Uncoloured amp may offer surprises for many.