itu

What I liked was the humble text: "I don't know when this will be ready" instead of empty promises. The unit itself is somewhat pricey, but small production runs tend to cost pretty much. HPF is a nice extra in this straightforward unit. The story of the EQ is of interest: I tried an Ampeg side by side with a Glockenklang, and they did sound really different! But here the sound from a system (an amp and a cab) that can be tweaked with the two band EQ - it requires a bold user that turns the knobs until a wanted sound is achieved. Uncoloured amp may offer surprises for many.

Edgar Meyer is my all time favourite. Start from Dreams of flight.

As the rooms are different (size, furniture...) they have their own effect to your sounds. Our rehearsal space is not too big, and because of that bass has not so good low end (the room dimensions are not on my side). But out there on a gig in a bigger arena, the bass starts to sing! At exactly the same volume. After you have found some decent sounds in those two places mentioned, it may be feasible to keep your laptop with you while gigging.

Novation bass station, I or II. At least the first version can be found with and without keys.

True. I used to work in a watch company of 500 people. Watch is in a very hostile environment when it is worn in wrist. Yes, if you could analyze the chemistry between a wrist and a watch, you'd be amazed. Leather strap has a lifetime of 6 months to three years depending on the sweat. Naturally the surrounding environment has its effects (humidity, temp etc.). Remember: a leather shoe has far longer lifetime. We received reports about Ni allergy something like 100 / year. As we wanted to analyze these incidents, we opened all reports of one full year. Many products did not contain any nickel at all. No Ni allergy possible from the product used. Excluded. Some products contained nickel in stainless steel (316L) i.e. not in very soluble form, and not in direct skin contact. Excluded. Some products contained nickel (316L) and could be in direct skin contact, some indirectly via sweat like flush screws. There we could see around 20 possible cases that might be Ni allergy. Fine. But. We also saw, that many of those reported units were really dirty. Some of the units were obviously uncleaned and had been like that for a long time. To be honest, some of the units were smelling really awful. I am saying that cleaning hands (skin) and the instrument is the key to lessen any possible contamination which could lead to allergic reaction. Sweat is so tough that it can react with 316L and its less noble alloys. As nickel is present in all common stainless steels, less contamination is always better - sure it is a reasonable start to not use nickel plated strings.

1) It's in player's hands. 2) Neck represents the most significant parametre in the whole equation. 3) Player should test and find the best sounding instrument for oneself, not the others. 1b) It is possible to get bad sound from an extraordinary bass. 2b) The equation includes body, electronics, pickups, strings, not to mention the player... 3b) If you cannot feel and hear any difference, buy the cheapest one you like. Or the one that looks good.

Comment: Stainless AISI 304 (L = low carbon; sometimes referred as A2) has 8 to 12 % Ni in it. AISI 316 (L; A4) has Ni 10 to 15 %. Most of the steels contain Ni. All string core wires contain Ni. If your fingers sweat a lot, consider washing them actively. An alcohol based liquid may dry your fingers a bit and may help.

Mouser, RS, all big electronic component dealers should have, if not the same, then similar connectors. And pots. If you find a beaten Ibanez, you could ask for parts.

Should that 6 be 5, otherwise I do agree that the reach within few frets is substantial. One of the worst experiences for me was the MM5. 4 is a good one but very different from 5. One single tip? Play. Play as long as the bass feels familiar in your hands. I learn slowly: for me it took around 6 months.

Depending on the current consumption (specs say 100 mA) you may be able to use a battery. But just one 9 V battery will not be feasible. Its ability to push current is so limited. Any rechargeable (and bigger) unit would be usable.

Ibanez Roadsta/er, or Blazer, a used one, you get a ton of good sound. And weight. But do not buy anything without a test drive. I know you may have preference for strings, but the bass usually talks to you somehow with any strings.

Ultrasonic cleaner is more effective. Dishwasher less, as is boiling. Still that cleaning cannot fight against metal fatigue (by A. Holdsworth!). The string becomes dull in just a few days.

Metal recycling. No need to boil, ultrasonic clean, dishwash, whatever. Old strings are old. I change strings (SS RW) when they sound and feel old. Usually two, three times a year.

James Tyler has excellent basses, I've heard, but that headstock...

An interesting point was mentioned in another thread here, that if there are two speakers from the same manufacturer, but the impedances are different, the speakers will not be similar. If the Z is different, there are several other parametres that will be different, too. Therefore 4 and 8 ohm cabs will sound and behave in a different way. @bremen's comment about amp's ability to push voltage and current are of great interest. When Z gets lower, current rises, and everything will get hotter from amp's components to speaker's coil. Think Z this way: You have a rod that you push with your thumb. Bigger Z means thicker rod, and is easier to your thumb. Lower the Z and rod gets much thinner. Pushing the spikey rod will hurt your thumb. Power is connected to loudness, but watts do not represent sound level. And because ear is not linear, like watts are, comparing watts is pretty fruitless. From 50 W to 500 W you can hear a difference, but 500 W to 1000 W the difference is close to nothing. dB seems to be too complicated a unit to most of us musicians.

By the way, the headphones do not represent the same response as the cab/speaker. The sound is not the same. I decided to use a battery operated small headphone amp with AUX in. Amplug by Blackstar. Easier to carry around than a 12 kg head.

An age old idea to produce low output from the power amp is to use simple resistors. If you do some search, there should be schemas available (sort of a power attenuator). Beware, headphone socket switches aren't the most reliable ones, as so many of us have seen/heard an unexpected mute.

You can try to fret the notes from the top of frets. Sound is not exactly the same but most likely closest you can get with a fretted neck. Fretless isn't that complicated, like @Hellzero said.

I forgot this, but a looper is a good unit to get instant feedback.

Book: Standing in the shadows of Motown. Teacher: Some local young lad. If no chemistry, find another. Repeat ad lib. Basics: You can tell about players (records) and instruments. Check he gets a good bass with new strings. Use mirror to show him posture etc. Band: If there's a possibility to join to a school or similar band, please encourage him. Support: an amp, and a car (you are the taxi driver...).

Neither do I. I do own two HGs, and one mini (3 knobs), and have programmed them a lot. Now I am happy with the sounds and all the options the knobs deliver. HG's knobs have up to three adjustments each, too. By the way, clean blend is worthless with these units.

Digitech Bass Squeeze is everything but transparent. There are a few more in www.ovnilab.com If Spectra feels too "simple", HyperGravity offers four adjustments.

Precision is not the most versatile nor the brightest instrument in the world of bass. Therefore roundwounds (RW) could give you more highs that you can tame with tone, and keeping the strings in the bass over a year. They become dull, and stiffer. To find your favourite set, here are few basic ideas of different string types: - SS RW (stainless steel), brightest string type - nickel RW, somewhat duller, but also more even response, most common, very good for fretless - groundwound/semiflats, nearly as dull as flatwounds - flatwounds (I include tapewounds here), dullest, "gets better while aging" Then the RW gauge (these differ from manufacturer to another, because of the string construction): - 30-90 very light, these strings shout slap! - 40-100 light - 45-105 regular - 50 and up, heavy Gauge has a lot to do with the feel. Be warned that practically every string gauge can produce very similar sound, because your touch dictates (or should dictate) the sound. It may be feasible to find the gauge that you feel at home. Do some testing in a shop. If your bass has not been set up by a pro, it should be done with a brand new set.

An addition to my previous list. + the accurate adjustments enable cutting the room boom Yesterday I was playing a gig in a wooden house which was amazingly boomy. My first thought was that soundwise this will be a nightmare. I had adjusted the PTEQ to fit our rehearsal room. Ha! I took the middle adjustment to make an educated guess of the boom freq: adjusted a slight notch (6-9 dB or so), Q in the middle and turned the f back and forth. There! Now everything else was functional again and the gig was a success. I added a Stompshield to the overall level pot. It will not move accidentally anymore.

https://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/bass-of-the-week/studio-63-headless-36-fret.html Next step is to make this a 71 fret bass...