itu

For a string through body you need slightly longer strings, if that is a hindrance or an advantage. Soundwise you can not hear or feel any difference on stage.

A friend of mine has a Dynacord DSP715. 300 watts, 15", and a built-in compressor. I said I could buy it from him, but he wasn't interested... no wonder. I could find only few pictures (note the slanted front): https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/dynacord-dsp-715-bassverstaerker-300-watt-basscombo-15-speaker/1521869274-74-7334 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/bassverstaerker-combo-dynacord-dsp715-und-zusatzbox-dsp715e/1427561443-74-4472

Thanks, I stand corrected. It seems to be an old rumour, that is misinformation.

Pictures, please. They might give some hints on the issue.

MM SR preamp is NOT boost only. (corrected by @drTStingray) I had a MG Quantum with bartolini preamp. The capacitors could be changed, and they don't have to be similar. This means that boost and cut frequencies could be different.

Where's our lady @Silvia Bluejay guiding people to the previous threads? Or should we add one more main topic about headphones and headphones only? Wireless, wired, closed, every available price point... then we could argue endlessly about responses and comfortability etc.

So, the OC-2 obviously offers the brown noise?

That is probably a question of the attachment. Wood screws are not the only option, but others may require some R&D at home.

Why not? If the width of the individual bridges is thin enough, go ahead.

It does not. It is a wooden bass. Phenolic or rosewood fingerboard, black wooden neck. Yes, I have one. Status has CF basses and necks. If you would have the neck made out of solid CF, you could carry a truck with it. The construction is hollow.

Antyfryta is nice, available in youtube.

Looks very good, any sharp corners?

Glockenklang Soul. Switchable eq, that I hardly need, very functional if needed. The basic sound is very good. A keeper, have been playing with it since it became available, or close.

Peavey G-bass may be a bit newer than wanted. Graphite, 35"... Ibanez Blazer series, maple is common, rosewood a bit rarer. Nearly anything from Matsumoku. Guild Pilot is one nice bass. Kawai is already pricey, MIJ Fender Lytes, Kramer... Japanese copy of some other brand's model like a 4001 or a 4005. But not a single ABG: light sound, mediocre quality.

Culture Club - Kissing to be clever Glenn Frey - The heat is on Huey Lewis and the News - I want a new drug Anaestecia - Cov, no, Cowboys and kisses Cole Porter - I've got you under my skin Puttin' on the Ritz Birdland (nice place like Ritz) Rolling Stones - Let's spend the night together Van Halen - Panama David Bowie - China girl anything from China Crisis

T-16 octaver, custom graphics suitable for diving. Wonderful unit!

Very interesting indeed, thanks a lot!

I am not quite sure that I am following, but I try to describe my choice through standards and one part. Thomann sells these: https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_np10c_neck_fix_bushing.htm https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_np10b_neck_fix_bushing.htm I would walk to a screw shop and ask for these: - DIN 7991 (hex bolt) - to match those Göldö parts (careful with the length, you do not want to go through the fretboard) - DIN 7965 (slotted insert) - to the neck, must fit the previous parts (the slotted end is the head and goes first to the wood) For assembly I suggest one basic bolt (DIN 961) along with a coupling nut (DIN 6334). Put the latter to the first and then tighten the insert to the coupling nut. It is pretty easy to screw these (straight) with the help of a column drilling machine or similar. When the insert is in place, it is pretty easy to open the set with two wrenches, and there will be no forces affecting the insert. Hope I was on a right track and this would help.

Most common "active" signal chain is: pickups - blend - vol - battery powered tone stack - output As you can see, the pickups are blended right away and the volume follows. Then there is the active tone stack, which may include treble, middle, bass etc. If your pickups are simple, two wire hi-Z units and you want to go the hi-Z way, try a Bourns 250k MN or 500k MN. If you want to try an active signal chain (lo-Z), replace the Bourns pot with a Noll Mixpot. It is an active mixer. https://www.noll-electronic.de/guitar-electronics/mixpot/

What is wrong with your Naka? Belt sets are available for a decent price. If button lamps are dead, they should be changed because the output goes off without them. You can try to find one unit with Dolby S. There were some, and they should represent the better half of the herd. Pioneer CT-93 was one of them.

This may sound (sorry) like a signal level mismatch. Can you adjust the wireless' output signal (possibly higher) and amp's input (lower)? The noise is amplified, if the wireless output is set pretty low. When you amplify any signal, you add noise. The more you have to amplify a low level signal, the noise level is also getting more power and becomes audible.

It is reasonable to check the polarity from the manufacturer's manual from their websites. If the unit and the manual are in conflict, I would rely on the unit's markings. Most of the pedals are centre negative, but there are also units that may need 9 VAC, centre positive, 12 VDC, 18 VDC and so on. It is not possible to mix units with different voltages or polarity, if the PSU does not have separated outputs. The currents should be summed (like 5 mA + 127 mA + 35 mA = 167 mA in total) and that amount should not exceed the output of the PSU. If there are many outputs, the single output limit should not be exceeded. The daisy-chained cable covers could touch each other without any harm. It is still better to cover them, so they will not touch any metal parts. There are plastic parts, where you can put the ends to. You could even 3D-print a plastic part for the free ends.

http://www.soundstagenetwork.com/vinyl/vinyl200509.htm

Anyone has one of these: https://www.elpj.com/

I have two small boards that fit - one at a time - to a mono Tick. These are easy to take along. The upper is for fretted and the lower for the fretless bass. Certain adjustments should not change by accident and there are few Stompshields. Some big knobs can be seen, too (Vong, Phat Beam). I can do adjustments while playing. The HB NG-100 is there to cut the attack, like in that Boss SG-1 (Slow Gear). I think HB is even more versatile as it can control attack and decay. mooer had few sounds from my other basses, like Vigier single coil. These do not look very handsome but they are small and functional. The power comes from 1Spot.