itu

Jacks were ruled out after some European regulation. Americans do not care about it that much, but they need to install Speakons, if they want to sell their amps at this side of the big water.

Turn on your radio and change the station once a day. Try to keep up. If this is very easy, I am pretty sure that you can sub a variety of bands or your ears need cleaning.

Nearly any piezo would work well (K&K or similar). Sizewise the frequency response is a bit different with smaller or bigger disks. But there are two things you should consider: the placement and the preamp. Preamp is the easier one, piezo has so high output impedance that it should be tamed with an active buffer. This high impedance may cut bass response drastically in an amp input. You can tinker one by yourself (like something FET-based) or buy one. Placement is another story. If your bass has a place for the piezo, fine, but you may need to make few trials. Bridge area is very common but as the piezo is sensitive to vibrations only, you may try any surface that vibrates. Thinner may be different (like the control cavity - remember, that both sides are fine) than the neck pocket. You can not bend a piezo (it is ceramics), but as it likes vibrations, tape or glue it very well. A tin or copper foil/tape can be used to cover the disk to prevent hum. Insulation is naturally needed in between. If you want to study a bit of acoustics, check Chladni patterns.

A X-over was the eye-opener for me. Blend is nice but two frequency bands is The Thing. KMA Tyler is very powerful, but IE Divaricator is a bit more straightforward and very fast to use.

My next flight case might be an SKB... Which is your model? I have been looking at this one: https://www.skbcases.com/music/products/proddetail.php?f=&id=655&o=&offset=&c=84&s=75

Elrick, Ritter and Sei, well they are high-end, but I can see only three, not eight? You certainly noticed, that there are lots of those F-word bolt-ons available. For some reason, whatever it might be, but certainly they are sold in numbers.

I have the mono and the stereo (M80 classic and Dual). Some older models do not have those attachments in them, so I would buy the newer version. Then the case can be fitted with their accessory case, Tick. I have a small effects board in the case. https://monocreators.com/collections/bass-cases https://monocreators.com/products/classic-tick-accessory-case-2-0-black

An accurate replacement is the best option, as the specs will be as planned. Another type of element may affect the sound and tuning a lot. X-over takes care of the impedance, so do not worry.

No. (There are no quality jacks to transfer that much energy from amp to the cab. Speakon is far better an alternative. But this is my very subjective point of view.) If you split the bass signal to two, you could drive both amps and cabs. A stereo chorus maybe...

That modern stack-pot circuit has not an active blend nor volume. They have hi-Z ("passive") first stages. The only ones that have active blend and vol are East and EMG, maybe some MEC is. signal route of a bass: pickups - blend (or vol) - vol - tone stack - output If there are no buffers right after the pickups, the hi-Z pots affect (load) pickups and change their response. I think that I tried to say this earlier.

If your equipment includes a HPF and a well set compressor (or a limiter), the system may sound pretty loud. It is reasonable to include these to that otherwise compact system if some noise is in need. I use a 2 x 10" or a 2 x 12" cabinet and a 440 W amp. Our band is 12 persons (pretty ordinary weekend warriors, I think). This setup is loud enough in clubs and bigger venues, but our band is able to play soft, too. If your gigs are in bigger venues, they usually have a decent PA to connect to (as well as a DI-box for the bass).

Well, you may try a Glockenklang. My Soul is something that just makes everything happen: fretted, fretless, double bass... I bought it in 2005. Opened it once to clean it two years ago but there was not too much dust, there. Have played quite a few gigs with it and nearly every rehearsal. I might have a Mesa 400+, because it sounds magnificent, too. But it weighs close to that 400+ lbs. so no thank you.

...that cost an arm and a leg and a kidney and a liver and... with detuners the price is over 10 k$. A used Ashula has a price tag that is less than 10 % of the Hyperbass. http://www.zonguitars.com/zonguitars/bassbuilder/index_hyp.htm https://reverb.com/marketplace?query=ibanez ashula If you are really lucky, you may find a fretless tune Bass Maniac with 3 octave fretboard. But it is really rare! I think that Ibanez has recently had a fretless with over 2 octave fretboard in their catalogue.

Friend of mine has this and got some lotion to help the symptoms. Later on he found out that he was allergic to some ingredient of the lotion... so beware. By the way, you might try that newer Ibanez Ashula 7-string to play with both fretted and fretless in one neck. Lots of tuning possibilities included!

Thank you, Sir, very good, this sounds very reasonable. I was on the right track.

I have not started to calculate, in case someone has: I prefer 40 - 100 sets for a 34" 4-stringer. How much longer should the scale be, if I used the same set for BEAD under similar tension?

Australian Steve Chick is the man behind all these instruments. Split-fret neck, yes. Valley Arts was also one of the users, I think.

It is somewhat strange, that a 4 has 19 mm as a "standard" and fivers have mostly everything else. Why on earth? Wide neck five is a bit too rare, although it is not impossible to convert a six to a wide five.

I am on your side, Sir. I just figured the simplest way there is. But if you start to use buffers, I want all stages to be active. My current Modulus Quantum has that Noll blend and a bartolini tone stack. Noll made a difference in sound. I am amazed, how few possibilities there are if you want a complete lo-Z signal chain. There are many retrofit tone capsules but only few (East, EMG) that include active blends and volumes.

That vintage is probably the cheapest available in every way. Here are lots of reasonable options (including that cheapo plate): https://www.thomann.de/gb/bass_bridges.html

So boring. Your "choices" are fretboard dots, decals and colour, but still everything is the same, year after year. I wish they did something serious like a competitor to Sadowsky or Suhr or something revolutionary. But no, this brand stands behind its true nature: two main products, a steep price, and varying quality.

There was a question that are there multiband compressors: yes, at least tce Hypergravity and Spectracomp, an age-old DOD with two bands (definitely NOT transparent but if you are after colored compression...) and so on. ovnilab has an extensive list of units and features as well as comments. I referred to SOS earlier and tried to find articles for us bassists. Enjoy: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/engineering-bass-guitars-live https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-how-can-i-get-more-effective-synth-bass-my-mixes Mixing: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/mix-rescue-tom-marcovitch https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/mixing-bass https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/better-bass https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/bass-guitars-mix Compression: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/compression-made-easy-audio-files https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/multi-band-compression https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-april-2003 (take a look at the 8th question about the order of the equalization and the compression) Speakers: https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-are-closed-box-speakers-better-than-ported-ones