Pea Turgh

Measure, check, measure, check, measure, check, cut, check, measure. It was all perfect right up until I glued & screwed it together. Suddenly my 1mm extra all around disappeared and it’s 2mm too narrow!!! Amp head no fit. Stuff it. I’ll crack on with the cab for now.

Bought some 12mm ply, some wood glue and a circular saw. Sh*t’s getting real! Found an app called Cut List, for optimising cuts on the ply - should help minimise waste. Trying to see what colours Tuffcab do, but their site doesn’t appear to work very well on a mobile. Will fire up the laptop to browse later on. Half tempted to do the same domestic emulsion + protection coat like I used for the “BC house jam micro cab”.

I love this build!

I’m not aware of the maker or the model, but I’m guessing the design brief was “can you make a bass out of my nan’s side table and lamp?”.

Is that Daphne blue, or some sort of metallic? Slightly muted guard looks really nice. Darkening up that fretboard might also lovelify it further, too.

Ooh, should be able to get the Peterson cab to 41 litres with woodwork. Should help, I guess. Will make sure by checking it out on WinISD before getting the tools out!

It was a 12CVM2 that I bought from you, so should be able to source a 2nd one as they appear to be current. 👍

Well heck, this is taking a while to sort! I’m going to combine a couple of projects here. I need to make a sleeve for a Trace Elliot head, and I want another cab to pair with the Trace or the Peterson. The Peterson amp has a fault, so will need to get that sorted. Whilst it’s not operational, I might as well do the proper woodworking on the cab to optimize it. Order of business; 1. Design the 2nd cab so it matches the Peterson dimensions (at least just the width so it sits nicely). 2. Go get some ply cut up 3. Build the Trace amp sleeve 4. Build the new extension cab using the Beyma from the Peterson. Working amp & cab 5. Get the Peterson amp head fixed 6. Put the Peterson shell under the knife to optimise the tuning. 7. Acquire a 2nd Beyma (should have bought that 2nd one from you at the time @Chienmortbb!) Will put pen to paper this evening when I’m in the house, also try WinISD to see if I can work out tunings myself. Will then post my crayon drawings here for comedy value/feedback.

I think harsh is just not proper FRFR. These sound just… quality.

It’s kinda Fender’s “thing” since the 50’s.

I was going to joke that it started with tolex peel, but the description confirms that’s exactly how it started! Sanded the front grille on auto-pilot too, ffs! And gone through the laminates in a couple of spots on the carcass. Damn, what a waste.

Cheers for all the thoughts, dudes. I was contemplating using some furniture to chop up to make a bass body. Decided against it in the end, as it was a nice bit of furniture. Maybe I’ll hang out by some skips instead.

How does that type of Fender pickup compare to a Gibson mudbucker? I played a 70’s SG bass in Wye Fret a couple of weeks ago and now I want a mudbucker bass!

They kinda look like they’ve been stored in a damp shed. You’d want to make sure the coils haven perished. Also the cabinets are made from MDF, so that could also be fooked.

Free wood - looks like mahogany to me, but owner says it’s teak. What does the hive mind say?!

And the lack of roundover on the top edges

Don’t know the circumstances, but happy to help one of our own. Hope things work out alright Lee.

I love it! 🤣. If it was priced accordingly, it could be brought back up to spec? (Apart from the ferrules 😬). Gut feeling it plays nice. Are you happy to share how much you paid for it @ronswanson?

You’d probably be better off with Barefaced 10s - they are vintage-voiced (man I’m miss my Two10!). The 12s are supposed to be more full range flat response (FRFR).

As would the nice paint job eventually!

Is that an Ashdown Geezer Butler head on the floor next to the red toolbox? Time travel indeed!

Those are oddly satisfying to look at. I’d take one of these over a roadworn! (…ducks for cover)

The way I’d approach it would be to stick paper to the (stripped) body so I could map out the position of the neck and pickup. Firstly rough cut the edges so I can run a straight edge along the sides of the body. Then I’d just follow the body lines for the lower horn - that’s the bit that needs to be bang on for me - uniform spacing all around! I taped a pencil to some other objects to make a jig. Repeat until it looks right, then stick to your sheet and get busy with a jigsaw. I then scraped a 45 degree bevel on the plate with a Stanley knife. I appreciate that might be a bit Heath Robinson for most though!

Headstocks all look stupid if you look at them for long enough.

Love the Delta (top one). 40mm nut. I can live with that. Headstock not as cool as the body (but headstocks are always a funny one to get right).