bass_ferret

Ashdown do one. I use the Samson A1B that is dedicated for bass and has a small bug, ideal if you change instruments.

[quote name='Jase' post='371833' date='Jan 6 2009, 12:01 PM']Isn't that supposed to be Jaco's?[/quote] They forgot to take the frets out and epoxy the FB

Its not particularly attractive

He only has XL and they barely cover my 17 stone frame. I have mentioned XXL next time he orders.

Well the Neogorm is based on the HD350 and the HD350 is a very popular amp on here, although the Neoline 212 seems to be the most popular neo cab. There is a big difference between the Neogorm and the other super-combo's you have mentioned - the weight. Plus the EBS is available in different speaker combinations. If it was me I would get the Neogorm 212. If you have a word with Bernie Goodfellow, who is the UK distributor, I am sure he will have an ex-demo one that has been displayed at trade shows for a suitable discount.

Bernie and email - LOL. I am expecting to see him next week so I will have a word.

[quote name='Tee' post='371424' date='Jan 5 2009, 09:22 PM']I've been reading the wiki and i have a question to put to people. I have a 350 watt 8 Ohm cab (Aguilar DB210) which i use with my Orange AD200 valve head (200 watts. I never have to turn the volume past half way). I want to get a cheaper SS back up and i have my eye on MAGs. Would i be crazy getting the Mag 600 (575w) and using it with my cab? At 8 ohms it would be drawing about half the power and i doubt i'd have the volume full up. Or, would it be more sensible opting for the Mag 300 (307w), which as mentioned would be pushing 180w? But i'm probably more likely to be pushing it harder. Linus, do you find your current set up loud enough?[/quote] Where you turn the volume knob is totally irrelevant as volume controls operate differently depending on input level and everything else so you could be getting full beans on half. If you want to know what the Mag 600 puts out into 8 ohms I expect the specs will be on the Ashdown website. As for whether the cab can handle it, read the wiki article again - particularly the big letters at the top.

This is all covered in the [url="http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:amps:impedance_and_wattage"]basschat wiki[/url]. Have a look there.

Nut needs to be recut for the thicker strings. Might need a tweak on the trussrod. Everything else should be OK.

Never noticed that! Doh!

[quote name='6stringbassist' post='369937' date='Jan 4 2009, 02:05 PM']I'm too dangerous with a soldering iron to do that. I bought a soldering iron last year to repair a faulty jacket socket in a preamp, I ended up taking it to a guy in Nottingham to have repaired properly, he couldn't stop laughing at what I'd done. I'd also burned my finger, and burned the top of the kitchen work surface.[/quote] Sounds like me on a good day

Apart from the neck, body, pickups, controls, and consequently playability and sounds, not a lot

Got all the BNH CD's and a really good sampler for some of the others called Talkin Loud 1990-1994. If I did not have so many CD's already I would have added some Incognito to my collection.

+1 - cheap plugs and leads are a false economy.

It depends how you use it. As others have said, its a combination of pup output and pre-amp that creates the signal, and hot passive pups can be louder with not hot pups and an 18v pre-amp. There are ways to deal with this, use a bit of restraint on the controls and turn the volume down when you turn the EQ up, or stick a compressor on the front of your effects chain to stop the hot output overdriving them. I am sure there are other options. Lots of people use the EQ and volume turned up full all the time but that just means they have to turn the amp down.

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='368766' date='Jan 2 2009, 07:41 PM']I would have thought you would have to go quite woody with a snakewood board...[/quote] Yes - thats why its not going on the black one. I dont think it would look right. I still like my solid colours and dont think you need a figured top and fingerboard, but it is the hardness of the wood for a fretless that is tempting me rather than it looking pretty. Its gonna take a while getting the colour right. I'm thinking dark orange at the moment and Bernie has suggested a sunburst. My other thought is to go contrast with the black one and do olympic white.

I think your bass will be just fine, and a bit of lemon oil will bring out the figuring. You are just letting the comments in BGM get to you

Gonna be having a proper chat with the man soon. Gonna fret the black one and get a new fretless with snakewood FB. Not sure about colour yet but I dont think the snakewood will look right with black.

[quote name='Protium' post='366683' date='Dec 30 2008, 10:39 PM']Thank you for explaining this Also thank you for explaining the current/impedance/voltage/power rather than just putting "YOU ARE WRONG" [/quote] Cant see any posts that just say "YOUu ARE WRONG"

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='366666' date='Dec 30 2008, 10:19 PM']Electrically the diagram is correct. Electrons pay no mind to whether the 10s are in one box and the 15 in another. Since each paired set of tens is series wired those pairs each offer a 16 ohm impedance to the amp, so those pairs will each receive only half the current that the 15 does.[/quote] Thanks Bill. Knew I was missing something obvious I was thinking physical rather than logical

And how are the Behringer and Hartke cabs power handling measured? Continuous, peak or programme?

[quote name='Linus27' post='367647' date='Jan 1 2009, 12:31 PM']Would naturally being left handed but playing righted not hinder his natural ability???[/quote] It would not if he was playing piano, why should it if he was playing bass. You dont get left handed trumpets, saxes, fiddles (at least in an orchestra as they would poke somebodies eye out), so why should it affect his bass playing.