Treb

[quote name='grenadilla' timestamp='1438634463' post='2836029'] lovely bass and Neptune is one of my favourite planets ! [/quote] I usually go for Uranus. Couldn't resist... Lovely bass BTW. Love those roasted maple necks!

The EBMM Sterling has parallel, single coil and series switching. The single coil mode is hum free by using a third "dummy" coil. Don't think that the parallel and series modes offer two vastly different sounds, it doesn't. Both sounds are signature MusicMan sounds, differences are small IMO.

My 2013 DJ4 in LPB gets a lot of love. Really comfy neck, great string action. Strung with DR Fat Beams and combined with its DJ Retro preamp it does "that J-bass tone" effortlessly. Great bass even if the finish on the neck is quite thin in places. Some would call that mojo...

EBS makes nice ones: pcf series in 10, 18, 28 and 58 cm. great patch cables for pedal board use, the flat connector allows positioning of the effects really close together.

A competent luthier will be able to tell you if it needs that kind of work. Dunno if it affects sound.

Properly applied an oil finish doesn't form a layer or coating if you will. Oil should be in the wood. Use of a polymerising oil makes sure the wood doesn't end up greasy or sticky. These oils are also knows as drying or hardening oils. These oils usually contain a mixture of tung and boiled linseed oil, some fragrance and additives that speed up drying time. The trick is to wipe off excess oil that the wood will not absorb. If you fail to do that you end up with a sticky mess. i have used such oils dozens of times. An unfinished maple jazz bass neck came out great. Rosewood fretboards likewise. These oils darken the wood a bit and as an added bonus make the wood grain pop up nicely.

I would clean it with turps, then apply a polymerising wood oil mixture. Something like Danish Oil or another tung oil & boiled linseed oil mixture with a cobalt catalyst. Remember an oil finish should penetrate the wood instead of forming a layer on top of the wood. Ebony being such a dense wood it probably will not absorb much oil if any at all. Ebony doesn't require a finish...

What a nice specimen you got there. Sterlings are great basses in all aspects, the signature MusicMan type sound is an acquired taste however. It might not suit in some settings as it is very much in-your-face. A wedding gig with a Sterling... You've got balls... :-)

While I really like tort I do like the off white one better combined with Daphne Blue. Ah well it obviously floats your boat and that's what counts. Still a lovely bass, enjoy!

The old Tokai basses came with a Fender shape headstock. They also had the old style logo, that looked like "7okai" instead of "Tokai". I had a Jazz Sound back in the day that looked like a 60's Jazz Bass. Lovely bass, which I had kept it. My nephew had a Hardpuncher back then. Lovely bass too. None of them had that gibberish on the headstock. This one is a more recent one.

Nice one! Do put foam on the dampers, even if you don't use them. Now it looks naked.

Indeed a StingRay with SLO neck or a Sterling (not a Sterling by MusicMan) both have jazz width necks. The Sterling comes with a smaller and thus lighter body.

Wow, what a great find. Nice to see Ibanez stamped the shim with their logo.

MusicMan Sterling bass. Smalller body than P & J basses, weighs less too.

After years of StingRay lust I bought a Sterling instead... Not too fond of chunky necks and big slabs of body wood made me decide to buy a Sterling. Its smaller neck profile fits my smallish hands better. It sounds awesome! Plenty of signature Musicman growl on tap. It looks small next to my Lakland DJ but it's a 34" scale length. Balances quite a bit different from the DJ. Neck profile is more of a handful but feels smooth as silk. I would have bought a Classic Sabre if it was available with a narrow neck. Ernie Ball should make a Slo Special Sabre!

I installed one (a DJ Retro) this week into my Lakland DJ. Installation isn't too diffucult. The pickups can be connected using screw terminals. The ground wires need to be soldered though. Screw terminals aside, it is a good idea to tin the wires from the pickups before screwing them in. So being able to solder propely is a must imo, having a wirestripper, solder and iron too. Fitting it all in the cavity is fiddly, you will manage with a bit of patience though. Note that you may have to do some minor woodwork. Mine would not fit as is. The active/passive switch needed some room to fit. I removed a bit of the side wall of the cavity to make it fit. Soundwise a big step forward from passive. The mid sweep is great to have. The bright switch is indeed bright, too much for me, ymmv. Being able to switch to passive is a great addition should you encounter the dreaded flat battery. I'm happy with mine. Good luck!