Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Dan Dare

Member
  • Posts

    4,558
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Dan Dare

  1. That's peak. In reality, a lot less. The headroom will be useful for acoustic stuff, where you need clarity above all else. If the OP has a £1k budget, saving another £500 and getting a pair of 735s looks an excellent option to me and much better than buying budget kit that is no improvement on what he has.
  2. Dad's right. I'd use what you have until you're in a position to upgrade your whole PA, rather than buy things piecemeal. You may well decide to go for active cabs (once you get into the realms of better kit, many PA speakers are active), which would mean you'd be wasting your money buying powered mixer. Mixers, especially analogue ones now many are going over to digital, tend not to hold their value and you don't get a good resale price if you buy new (I have just sold a large Soundcraft, in mint condition, for a fraction of what it cost me). As a stopgap to provide extra power for larger jobs, I'd look at picking up a used power amplifier to drive the other speaker. If you really want a powered mixer, they often turn up used on the 'Bay. Stick with reputable makes such as Yamaha, Allen & Heath, Soundcraft, etc and you'll be fine.
  3. Heavy cabs? Check. Jazz bass? Check (got one). Pedal steel guitar? Check (drove me mad and I sold it).
  4. Hence the bit of foam we put under the strings.
  5. The answer is both. Some vintage instruments are wonderful, some less so and some, I've no doubt, are dogs. Same applies to modern instruments - some that are being made today will become sought after classics, others won't. The high prices of vintage instruments are due to scarcity value and because people invest in them. It's the way of the world. No point in straining at it.
  6. Have a look in the market place under other musical items. Someone is selling a couple of Mackie active subs (says he will sell one or both). I don't know or have any connection with the seller, but one or both of those combined with your existing PA ought to do the job.
  7. There's a limit to what a tiny valve guitar combo can do, no matter what you do to it. Preamps/eq are complex topic. Unless you know what you are doing, I wouldn't DIY mod a valve amp. Apart from anything else, the internal voltages are usually very high, so bodging things can be dangerous. I'd be inclined to get something like an eq pedal - Boss graphic or similar - and run the bass through that into the combo. It still won't be great, but it will be better than nothing and a lot safer.
  8. Have a look at Orchid DI boxes. Very well reviewed in Sound on Sound, made in deepest Devon and not at all expensive.
  9. Fair enough, but how many items do you spot in the average day that you are interested in? For me, it will be one, maybe two a week at most, so the time spent sending "where are you" messages is minimal (I've just sent someone that very question). Those who deal and buy a lot of stuff to sell on should accept that a small amount of effort may be needed to find something they can turn a profit on.
  10. Spot on. Next to the fruit bowl.
  11. Why not build a Bitsa P? Mine cost me around £250 - bought a used Squier cheap and upgraded pickups, tuners, bridge and wiring. I agree with others that nothing does P bass like a P bass.
  12. Agreed. Dave's a great musician and an all round sound chap. Where's his gong?
  13. Confirmation bias, anyone? I'll tell you what I use if you ask, but I won't recommend gear (have a look at my other posts if you don't believe me) because what suits me won't be for everyone and because drinking/buying by the label is a sure-fire recipe for disappointment. If you don't accept that, have a look in the market place, on eBay, etc and see how much expensive and highly regarded kit is for sale. A lot of that will have been bought by people on the strength of reviews, rather than a proper trial. After a short while, they find it's not giving them what they wanted and sell it on.
  14. I do this, too. Re. the original question, I'd stick with what you have if it's working. As far as comments about variations in local power supplies are concerned, most good quality kit has universal power supplies these days (my AG700 does), which will adapt to most, if not all, circumstances.
  15. I think Ringo's got his gong for being an all round good geezer, not for being a a drummer, singer or whatever. I'm fine with that. He certainly deserves it a hell of a lot more than Clegg, Brady and all those political a r s e kissers.
  16. Interesting video above. I do feel it confirms what I found. If I couldn't see that he was playing a J bass, I'd be hard pressed to tell that was the case from the sound alone (I appreciate it's a Squier, rather than a full fat one).
  17. I don't think that would work at all well. You would be feeding a full range signal to the Ashdown. Ideally, you need a crossover to remove the higher frequency content from the signal to the sub/bass cab and the low bass from the tops. Most important, you need to power a sub with its own amp. Even if they have an aux speaker output, those powered PA cabs you refer to will not drive it adequately (and you'd have to daisy chain it from one of them - you couldn't use both). I see from your later post that you have a PA already and agree with Dad that what you are proposing to replace it with would be a sideways move, not an improvement. If you are looking to reduce the amount of kit you carry, dispense with backline and put the bass through the PA, I'd agree that you should keep your existing PA and suggest you add a powered sub (but see my previous comments about getting a decent one). Dad's right that what you have would probably be adequate for bar gigs, but it won't cope at the weddings you refer to.
  18. A Bass V in a shop in Middlesbrough about 30 years back. Expensive but affordable. High C rather than low B. Stupidly rare now.
  19. Dig his feedback. 1 positive (from a seller - probably the bloke he bought the thing from).
  20. I had an East J-Retro in my Jazz and went back to passive after a while. The East is excellent, but I felt the active preamp robbed the instrument of that essential Jazz Bass character and made it sound a bit more generic, if that makes sense. I was initially impressed (and the East is very well made and clean sounding), but grew tired of it, so replaced it with new pots, cap and wiring and sold it on.
  21. Honours? Yeah, right. This is a bloody disgrace - http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/new-years-honours-list-grenfell-tower-fire-heroes-manchester-terror-attack-london-a8133811.html
  22. Nooooooooooooooooooooooo. Other cabs are available...
  23. Agreed. Re. the original question, a pair of those cabs plus a good quality powered sub might be just about OK, but avoid the subs that are aimed at the cheaper end of the disco market and that claim ridiculous power outputs, etc. They may make a fair amount of noise, but it's all boom and no notes and the sound falls apart when you push them (they often achieve volume via over-zealous porting to give a false impression of power). As with our bass rigs, clean, plentiful low end costs money.
×
×
  • Create New...