manchester guitar tech says exactly that in his guide; further that one should work on a small area at a time. For this reason I found that a sponge is the perfect tool
not necessarily- it looks fine and fender do have a history of parts-bin builds. He's got concrete proof from Fender its really one of theirs and left the factory like it.
I think he's bullet-proof on this one
@Grahambythesea fair play to Fender for owning up to the problem.
of course they do.
https://www.samash.com/squier-vintage-modified-jazz-bass-fretless-f06608500
https://www.samash.com/bass-guitars-1/fretless-basses/squier-vintage-modified-precision-bass-fretless-f6808500x
I'm going to orlando in about a months time, now I've seen the price in USD I'm giving buying one serious thought.
@Grangur
I have a mighty mite neck and looking good - very slim
If heel adjustment bothers you, why not cut a tool recess like US standards have ? five minutes with a chisel, less with a dremel
i just put the neck plate on, and marked them. I bought a gizmo from amazon to drill straight holes. Useful also for bridge and ferrules as its totally easy to pink torpedo it up
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075MHP2TF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not drilling holes in body until grainfiling and sealing is done.
@BrunoBass bruno, as you know I'm doing a pawlownia jazz - I recommend using sanding sealer as it really makes the grain jump out - see my build thread photos; I've just uploaded an A/B photo of with and without sanding sealer on a piece of pine. Found that the perfect tool for applying it is a clean washing-up sponge.
there's something weird going on with that nut as well,
looking closely at the headstock photo you can actually see where the old logo was scratched away, does it say "Encore"? - or Columbus ?
early jap copy is my guess