Prosebass

[quote name='thunderbird13' post='859659' date='Jun 7 2010, 11:09 AM']I’m beginning to think that I’m just destined not to do certain things [/quote] stick at it and things will come good eventually. Remember all good things come to those who wait and perseverance is always a good character trait. The alternative is becoming another Les McQueen

That Dynacord looks cool as.

[quote name='steve-soar' post='857764' date='Jun 4 2010, 10:27 PM'] [/quote] et al

[quote name='Matte_black' post='857870' date='Jun 5 2010, 12:31 AM']I saw this appeal on Facebook... felt like being punched in the stomach. Posted the appeal on another forum, hope he'll be as lucky and strong as Rocco Prestia was when it had liver issues years ago. I'll certainly send my humble contribution... hope many BCers will do the same.[/quote] Certainly will, Mick is one of my major influences and a kind of 'hero' to me. Really shocked.

[quote name='paul h' post='854543' date='Jun 2 2010, 10:17 AM']Another winner. Nice work...again![/quote] Cheers Paul, its inexpensive too.....[topic="90402"]For Sale Here[/topic]

[quote name='silddx' post='855496' date='Jun 2 2010, 10:34 PM']Last week I ordered some of these thin black silk gloves like Etienne Mbappé uses. They arrived today. I tried them and to my total surprise they are amazing! They are so comfortable and feel really natural to play with. I can still play very fast riffs with total accuracy. Now, I only bought them because I'm a slag and they look real sexy. Etienne wears them because he has massively acidic sweat and he kills his strings within the first three numbers of a set and he now swears by them. If you have this problem, I can't recommend them highly enough. I am really looking forward to playing a gig with them now! These are the ones I got and I ordered a size smaller than my hands, I think - ie. small and my hands are about small/medium. [url="http://www.jasminesilk.com/product_info.php?products_id=36"]http://www.jasminesilk.com/product_info.php?products_id=36[/url] How cool is this?! [/quote] Are you on glue ?

[quote name='Johnston' post='848782' date='May 26 2010, 06:39 PM']I'm going to have to get a dremel, some very handy attachments. Shame they wouldn't fit on my copy!! There is something about the telecaster shape that it suits a short scale bass. It's looking well.[/quote] I agree , and to prove the point here are the results Will be finished tomorrow. More photos and info on my [url="http://www.prosebass.com/apps/blog/show/next?from_id=3906442"]Blog[/url] Paul

Have a look at these sites [url="http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/index.php"]Fretfind[/url] with this you can print out the string set-up from the nut to bridge with all the variables, its a godsend . [url="http://www.liutaiomottola.com/"]Luitaio Mottola[/url] Lots of useful stuff here. [url="http://www.guitarnotes.com/links/rgoto.cgi?query=5541&sort=proportional&title=Proportional+Nut+Spacing+Rule&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.frets.com%2FFRETSPages%2FLuthier%2FTools%2FNutRule%2Fnutrule.html&rank=2.0&rnum=0"]Proportional Nut Spacing [/url] This will be helpful to you also. I have done both proportional spacing (which looks wrong to me) and simple 10mm centre to centre which in reality on a 4 string bass with a nut width of 39 - 42 mm is fine and simple to achieve. If you go less than 39mm nut width with a narrow neck ( less than 3mm from the outside of the E and G strings to the fingerboard edge ) I would use proportional otherwise the E and A strings will be a little close together. Paul

Neck Work, After roughing out he neck and fitting the truss rod I shape the headstock and heel and then glue the board on leaving it clamped for a few days and then a few days more for it to 'settle' First I shape either side at roughly 45 degrees then concentrate on the area around the volute at the top of the neck to give me an approximate profile. Then my favourite bit with the spokeshave and hand sanding. I also use a plumbers cleaning strip which is designed for getting round the back of pipes before soldering which removes wood at a good rate and gives me the profile. It is then a case of more spokeshave / sanding blocks / strip until I am happy with how the neck feels or that it is how the customer wants it. With builds like this I enjoy shaping the neck as I go along and in this case decided on a slightly asymmetrical profile with the top more rounded than the bottom for better access and more comfort as it is a 'chunky' neck due to the 10mm Wenge board. Its now coming together and next job is to plane the heel to the correct depth, fit the insets , frets and markers, drill for the tuners, final sand everything then assembly. I also decided to have a slight board overhang to enable a full 2 octave 24 frets.

[quote name='Johnston' post='847827' date='May 25 2010, 07:31 PM']Are they standard dremel attachments or something you have made up??? it certainly looks the ticket.[/quote] Hi to make things simple here is a message I sent to Wesfinn at Steed basses. [quote]As regards the jig, it is a Wolfcraft PSD 250 designed for jigsaws. After removing the strengthening ribs (in the jigsaw base) I cut a hole the exact size of the base of a Dremel 670 mini saw , lined it up perfectly and epoxied it in place so that the base of the mini saw was exactly level with the bottom of the jigsaw base. I found this gives me a 3mm cut which is fine for me as I only do flat boards. The side of the base that runs in the alloy assembly needed packing with 3 strips of plastic (off the Dremel packet) which I super glued on , sanded slightly and applied a little oil. For straight cuts I just line the up the marks on the fret board with the edge of the alloy and the cut is approx 2 -3 mm in front of it. The alloy part can be rotated so will be excellent for fan frets. I set the saw in front of the board and pull it towards me so it cuts better. Problems, as the clamping is to the left of cut you can run out of board to clamp. This can be overcome by attaching the board to a piece of 3" x 1" with an off-cut of another board so the clamp has something to clamp to , and doing this it works fine. Its a mark1 version of my idea and I am going to develop it further by incorporating a pin for registration with Stewmac templates and some way of adjusting the depth of cut , probably with a different runner / base. Its good for a start though. I have also thought about making a mini table for the saw with runners for the board which may be a better idea as the height could be altered easier. Machine Mart sell the clamp for £28.00 and the Dremmel saw is about £27.00 most places . The saw blades are .6mm which is why I decided to use it .[/quote] [attachment=50558:IMG_5178.JPG] [attachment=50559:IMG_5179.JPG] [attachment=50560:IMG_5184.JPG] Paul

A few photos showing the fret slot cutting and general lining up procedures. I do the final neck pocket cutting by hand to ensure an interference fit between the neck and body after the final squaring up. I personally don't think this adds anything sonically to a bass I just like things to fit together nicely. In recent blind tests by an American builder it transpired that a bolt on neck gave better resonance and sustain than a through neck. Another of those issues we could debate till the proverbial # Fret slots are cut with my little sliding circular saw and clamping system., an idea I had and have just put together. Much better than hand cutting and much quicker. I am hoping to develop this system so it can be used with commercially available templates from Stewmac and the like.

A Telecaster Bass with a Prosebass slant. I have always been a fan of the stumpy Telecaster body so have decided to put my own influence into the design rather than an outright copy. Specification for this first one is straightforward and simple. 30" scale, with the neck in Mahogany with a Wenge board. Standard headstock design. 10mm nut spacing 40mm nut width. 21 jumbo frets Dual action rod adjusted at the heel Body center is laminated 4 piece darker mahogany. Comfort contoured and a little chunkier than Fenders offering. It is quite slim at 35mm to keep the weight down which I hope will be around 7lb Hardware in Chrome , elephant ear tuners , high mass 'Fender' style bridge 19mm spacing Single pickup in bridge position, 7k / 7k humbucker soapbar. Volume, tone, coil tap fitted on mahogany plate I am also building an ash bodied model at 32" or 30" scale with a Black pearloid plate and maple neck with maple board. Undecided on the scale as I want to see how this one turns out. Finish will be an hand rubbed oil that has resins and is a professional hardwood floor finish as I like to try new products and techniques. This will be a stock bass so if you are interested please contact me. Paul

[quote name='Low End Bee' post='841045' date='May 18 2010, 04:15 PM']Genuine question. What's wrong with the way it's on?[/quote] Nothing in so much as there is really nothing wrong with the Precision as it is , but I think inserts and stainless / brass set screws with allen heads is a better / more durable way to do things from an engineering aspect. Screws are perfectly good ( and a hell of a lot easy and cheaper than set screws) after all most of the man made world is screwed together, I just think its 'cheap' on a £750.00 bass . There said it ! rant over Edit: plus lots of people complain of chewing up the heads and not knowing how tight to do up the screws if the neck ever comes off. Maybe they are a leftover from the early days when the basses generally needed shimming on setup ? Edit 2: or so I've been told, me not being either a Fender fan or aficionado, so what do I know ?

Attach the neck properly ! nothing else.

[quote name='janmaat' post='836050' date='May 13 2010, 12:07 PM']Hi, first, thanks all... as for re-fitting the neck, I don't think that's a good idea - seeing all those screws and stuff... how to re-fit it so it won't come off again? it's rock solid where it is now, so i think i'd rather leave it where it is and only do the finger board and the bridge - after all i want it to be easier to play, though the sound can surely be improved it'll never really be a stradivadi... pretty sure the neck's in a 'wrong' angle (at least, the right way round though you are certainly right suggesting to start with the finger board, and then see what can be done to the bridge. The finger board is very uneven now due to a lot of slapping, so it would def need sanding down first (or filling??). and then? what's the product(s) to apply? should i oil it slightly, then varnish (varnish? what varnish)? - and thanks for the book tip will see if i can get my hands on one (library?)...[/quote] If the neck is not for coming off then the only options are either to re-finish or to put a new veneer on the board. Putting a new veneer on would be the best option but probably not the easiest DIY so I would go for filling and flatting the board. You need a good "long hard straight thing" that you can attach varying grades of aluminium oxide paper to using double sided tape. If you want I can shape a nice length of mahogany for this purpose for you if you cover the postage (send me a PM) B&Q do some good rolls of the paper you will need (about £8.00 each) and I would suggest using 120 and then 240 grades It is essential that you sand evenly both lengthways and across the board to keep it even . After you have started you will soon see where the high and low spots are and whether much filler is needed and it would be best to use as little as possible just filling the screw holes if you can. Wood filler is generally not very good and a small tube of flexible car body filler would be better. If it does not need much filler you may be able to use the next process to fill any small areas. After the sanding the wood will need cleaning with methylated spirits (the purple stuff) It does not soak in so the grain won't swell. Don't worry about the board being super smooth as the coating will need something to 'key' to. The best coating I have found is Rustins Alkyd - Resin floor sealer. ( you will need 600 wet and dry paper to flat it between coats) This is a 2 pack finish and has the advantage that it goes off quickly so you can do several coats in an afternoon. Mask off the rest of the neck and mix the sealer following the instructions to the letter. You can use the sealer to fill any small irregularities first and when dry sand flat with the rest of the board. After this apply a full coat to the neck , (use a natural fibre brush as nylon bristles will melt) When dry flat each coat back smooth , wipe with the meths , allow to dry and then re-coat. How many coats is up to you and how long you want to spend on it. Hope this helps....

Looking at the photos , the problem with the action would appear to be from an incorrect neck angle which would need rectifying to ever get it set up right. If you could re-set the neck to achieve this the board may be able to be refinished with several layers of thin veneer or could be built up / smoothed with plenty coats of alkyd resin and flatted off , or even both. I would say from the photos you would need to do this first before you would know whether you needed a new bridge and nut inserts or if the existing ones could be modified. I'd have a look for you but you are too far darn saarf

I was bidding on this originally and then noticed it was re-listed so avoided it. I am in agreement with Derren and would message him and explain the situation again and the consequences to him if he does not sell it to you and then report him to ebay under a dispute if you get no joy. I would not bother with the feedback until the situation is resolved one way or the other.

The Grosvenor was a good venue I thought last year and made for a fun chilled afternoon. A little longer say 11.00 till 6.00 would be good as the afternoon went really quickly. Here are a few reminders from last year

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='829700' date='May 6 2010, 03:28 PM']And they weren't good[/quote] wash your mouth out young man !

Before getting a bass I was introduced to Weather Report by my older brother in 76 and decided then that I wanted to play bass. 3 weeks later his mate gave me a bass......simples

They don't need to be ugly ! maybe Warwick need a new designer ? .... They do have some advantages regarding neck stability , shorter truss rods hence a lighter neck , and with the top horn / body extending up to the 12th fret no balance problems. I am also told my designs are female friendly with the wide top curve to the body.

Sold a bass to Mike and it was a fuss free pleasant transaction. Thanks Mike

Depends how fussy you are and how much you want to spend to me these are the best pots [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/bourns/95a1d-z28-ea0-302l/pot-audio-500k-knurled-shaft/dp/RE04588"]Bournes[/url] but rather OTT some would say for bass or guitar at £10.00 each Other good ones much less expensive that I like to use because of their diminutive size and positive action are these [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/p160knp-0ec15a500k/panel-pot-500k-log-16mm/dp/RE04585"]BI Technologies [/url] pots from China. Omeg are good if you prefer to buy British and have the advantage of plastic shafts so your knobs are insulated from any stray nasty electrikery [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/omeg/ow20bu470kb/potentiometer-log-470k/dp/RE04369"]Omeg[/url]