
rmorris
Member-
Posts
1,308 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by rmorris
-
Recommended spare parts suppliers + guides/diagrams
rmorris replied to Hamster's topic in Repairs and Technical
[url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/"]http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/[/url] electronic / electromechanical / general bits... -
[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1453121320' post='2956482'] Why would it be easier? Do you mean to wrap the flat braid around the wire, or just use it to link the cavities? I could just run a wire for linking if that was all I wanted to do. I know shielding the hole probably makes absolutely no difference, but I like the completeness of it. I feed the wire through the braid, then feed that through the hole. Splay the ends of the braid and tape them down (I use aluminium tape for shielding cavities). I only really started using it for that because I had it knocking around. I bought it with wire in it labelled as "Gibson" style wire, when I was rewiring a Les Paul style guitar that has chrome hardware, so it all matches... [/quote] Oh I see. I thought you meant you used it simply to link cavities to maintain continuity (without screening a cable). Thought you might be using a braid as technically it's better than a piece of round wire (although with guitar set ups the difference is probably more theoretical than audible ?) Thanks for clarifying.
-
[quote name='rainbowreality' timestamp='1452903667' post='2954724'] I can't find it anywhere (3 strand plus earth) I need some to rewire my bass so if anyone knows where to get any I'd be very grateful! [/quote] for info there's plenty of screened 3 core cable available in industrial cable ranges eg CY cables. But you'll probably have difficulty in getting it in less than a 50m reel at >£50 !
-
[quote name='rainbowreality' timestamp='1452954280' post='2955028'] Another option I was considering was using 4 pieces of 22awg cable (one strand cable being shield) and twist or even plait them together as I've read somewhere this effectively shields them? [/quote] Twisting is a bit different from shielding. To be effective it needs to be used with a balanced audio system. This is unlikely to be the case with a bass/pickup/amp setup.
-
[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1452974617' post='2955306'] I mostly use it for lining the hole between and linking shielded pick-up and control cavities (my basses and guitars don't have scratchplates). [/quote] I use it at work for overall shielding of cable assemblies. But for your use would it be easier to use flat braid ?
-
[quote name='rainbowreality' timestamp='1453059594' post='2956064'] I wonder if using two cables, one single shielded and one two core shielded might be a better option? [/quote] Depending on whether you have cable already or would need to buy then it might be easier to do it all with 2 core shielded as you'd need only one cable type and it's readily available. I'm wondering what wiring configuration you have that requires 3 core shielded ?
-
This website might be worth a look - cable stuff to read through in addition to products... [url="http://www.shootoutguitarcables.com/index.html"]http://www.shootoutguitarcables.com/index.html[/url]
-
just a note to mention that Studiospares cable range is worth a look too
-
[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1452367842' post='2949365'] It's possible to spend an absolute fortune on a couple of guitar leads and gain relatively little back in the way of quality. You want cable from a well known manufacturer, Klotz or Van Damme. The plugs need to be Neutriks. That combination is about as good as you're ever going to get. I believe there's someone on here that makes these cables... I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to remind me who it is... [/quote] +1 No need to spend "silly money" as it's just going to big margins on the price. Neutrik connectors (for their mechanical integrity plus collet type cable retention) with appropriate Klotz or Van Damme / Canare etc. instrument cable (ie with additional semiconducting screen to attenuate cable movement noise with HiZ pickups) with high quality assembly / soldering is about as good as it gets.
-
Good Bridges not Hipshot. Badass or Babicz
rmorris replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Accessories and Misc
So how much did the kit cost and what price the BB bridges ? -
Same thing happened to me on a Hohner B2 about ten years ago. Ended up calling the Bass Centre who had one of the pullers available.
-
[quote name='Greg.Bassman' timestamp='1450293582' post='2931487'] Just spotted the Zvex WM 'Vexter'. Same sound. The simpler paint job means that they shave about a 100 off the top. [/quote] yeah - I think it's even more than that - £120 ? from memory - it's on the website anyway. I'd definitely rather have that money in my pocket than the hand painted graphic !
-
[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1450437178' post='2932759'] Many Amps in those days had the turn on/off thump. It is caused by one of the voltage rails rising or falling faster than the other. Contrary to what many people say it does not damage the speaker. The noise probanly comes from the controls. They need to be cleaned with a good switch cleaner, preferably deoxit. It is the most expensive but it is the only one that works long term. The other alternative is to replace the control pots themselves. If you can use conductive plastic ones as the last much longer. [/quote] +1 The Caig DeOxit stuff is the stuff to use. Look through the product range as they have some specific products for pots etc. Of course you have to be able to get to the pots first ! yeah - if replacing CP pots are preferable though not cheap. On the popping - how old is the amp ? Have another look round the caps for any sign of heat - scorching etc - or for misshaped resistors. Might be worth changing electrolytic caps in any case as they are generally the components that deteriorate most quicly with heat / time.
-
[quote name='Greg.Bassman' timestamp='1449831477' post='2927245'] Agreed rmorris, can't justify the price. What do you make of the clones that are available? [/quote] tbh I haven't used a WM or a clone. Not really my thing. So I'll rely on others for opinions on the sound but the clones do generally seem to get the thumbs up from what I hear. But I do know about designing and manufacturing electronics into boxes etc. Zvex seem to be placing a huge premium on the value of their engineering design input - as well as the case artwork - and it just looks all out of scale. I guess that's why the clones can be that much less expensive. It would be interesting to know how many WMs ZVex shift ? On a similar note wasn't there something about charging what seemed like a lot for a blanking plate or similar (or did I imagine that :-?) I remenber that, in the pro audio field, Focusrite sold a rack unit blanking plate at a rather high cost but it was what you needed if you wanted your rack to have a red anodised aluminium plate in keeping with the Focusrite kit, rather than a plain back metal sheet from Studiospares etc...
-
Well the 'business model' seems to be is to charge very high on basis of reputation. Whether you appreciate the 'novel' aesthetics is a matter of your taste I guess. The circuitry itself is based around a fairly standard transistor fuzz circuit that varies gain and bias levels etc. I think any justification would be in selecting and matching the discrete transistors - I believe that the transistors in the ZVex tend to have their part number etc obscured - but various sites seem to indicate optimum hfe parameters. And other design detail eg the tone circuit values / characteristics. Doesn't seem to justify the big money to me fwiw.
-
Do any / all of the basses have low impedance pickups (EMG etc...) and / or active circuits ?
-
Could you expand a bit on why the quality of the OLP electrics concerns you. I have one of these but not yet looked 'under the hood'. Is it the quality of the components - pots etc. or the way the wiring is done or ... ?
-
Good Info. Thanks.
-
Firstly I'd say you really don't need to start spending the 'big money' to get good rack compression. I'd say hit ebay and pick up a decent VCA based rack unit. As an example an 'early' Behringer MDX2000 Composer (Yes - Behringer !) is likely a good buy (Later versions with the 'shiny' fascia are more dubious by reputation but I have an earlier model) But pretty much anything from the likes of Yamaha / dbx etc that has full control over attack / release as well as auto options should get you a long way. Control of the knee function is handy too. They can be a bit more work to get your sound compared to pedals but that's basicaly because they give you more options rather than trying to have a particular sound. Bearing in mind that these things are meant to be applicable to any sound source or mix and not aimed specifivcally at bass / guitar use. Plus of course you get two channels to play with allowing a great deal of flexibility. Probably a bit further up the price scale, the Rane DC24 is no longer available new but would be good if found used. Ovnilab link: [url="http://www.ovnilab.com/reviews/dc24.shtml"]http://www.ovnilab.c...iews/dc24.shtml[/url] And if you do want to spend big money you'd probably want to take a look at this : [size=4][color=#000000][font=verdana, tahoma, arial, helvetica]Empirical Labs EL8 X Distressor[/font][/color][/size] [size=4][color=#000000][font=verdana, tahoma, arial, helvetica]- One channel but has tube / opto emulation etc.[/font][/color][/size]
-
Well they seem 'standard issue' for shipping technical kit etc to exhibitions and things so I reckon it should be fine if the bass fits in nicely.
-
Pedalboard Issues - Pedal output hole too low...
rmorris replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
[quote name='AinsleyWalker' timestamp='1447965976' post='2911961'] Yeah I have tried this, works outm but currently only have one right angle cable (10ft) and I used that to go into my bass. My local guitar shop closed so when I go in one soon I might grab a 20ft to go out of the board [/quote] Right angle jacks the obvious answer. Use quality Neutrik jacks if space allows. -
How was the G5 powered ?
-
First stop - the pots themselves. For cleaning I'd recommend you take a look at the Caig DeOxit products. If they are accessible and you're handy with a soldering iron then I'd suggest to consider replacing them. The pots fitted will almost certainly be carbon track types but if you can get the same value / taper / size with either Conductive Plastic or Cermet tracks then they will l;ast longer. If the pots don't fix the problem then I'd suspect any electrolytic capacitors in the signal path - small metal cans on the pcb - as they are the most likely to fail with time. This can then lead to dc voltages on the controls and noise when pots are moved.
-
6 Ohms ????