HowieBass

I'm no expert so, just for curiosity's sake, this does interest me. As you say, changing the capacitor on the tone pot only takes effect once you start turning the tone down and in your case won't make it any brighter with the tone fully open. From what I've just read, if I've got this correct, if you increase from a 500K to a 1M ohm for the volume pots it will sound brighter at maximum volume for each pickup but the minute you back off the volume you'll see a sudden decrease in treble, and this is where a treble bleed capacitor comes in. If you're lacking treble with the volume backed off a little for the pickups then maybe try a treble bleed capacitor with the existing volume pots?

Whatever you get it's probably going to cost quite a bit - as you've discovered you can't get a direct replacement so you'll be looking for something that suits a 2 pickup, 4 knob plus switch layout and the Aguilar OBP-3 does that. Have a look at the options and prices here http://www.bestbassgear.com/aguilar-obp3-preamp.htm?ds_source=01&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=Shopping.com&utm_campaign=Shopping.com&utm_content=BBG-16

A bass string of 100 gauge (so 1/10" thick) tuned to low E for a 25" scale instrument would have a tension of only about 19lbs (compared to about 35lbs when tuned to E on a 34" scale bass) so would be exceedingly floppy - according to the string tension calculator here http://www.stringbusters.com/stringfaqs.asp

Welcome to Basschat and enjoy the Overwater! Hopefully the bass will be ready to play but if you need any advice on how to set it up then you know where to come

With actives I think the usual reason for why some seem better than others is how (in a 3 band EQ for example) the treble, mid and bass frequencies are chosen, the shape (width) of the filter curves and the amount in dB of cut and boost available. Some EQs also have selectable mid frequencies. Some active EQs employ sweepable frequency boosts (parametric EQs) like my old Westone Spectrum LX which has a passive tone control (which like other passives cuts treble) and in active mode will add an amount of boost centred around a sweepable frequency which can be either treble or bass (much like Wal basses I gather).

I originally went for bass (many, many years ago) because I thought it would be easier to play along with my keyboardist friend since he was handling most of the melody (but clearly could also play bass lines when he wanted and I could develop some melodic lines). As it happens I think I made the right choice but for two additional reasons; firstly I'm not the type who wants the spotlight so playing bass allowed me to avoid being deemed a frontman; secondly the tuning arrangement seemed very logical, transpositions are easy and my visual way of thinking seemed to be completely suited to working with shapes on the fretboard; add to that the fact that bass tabs are very manageable for someone who can't read the dots and it was a no-brainer for me. Of course, the further you get into playing bass the more you discover that it's just as much a challenge as many other instruments but for me the simpler entry point made sense and it worked.

This suggests it's the English pronunciation for Warwick http://youtu.be/2ln9H3y71L8

And then there's Lakland (and knowing that it was co-founded by bassist Dan Lakin and luthier Hugh McFarland helps)...

So... what about Warwick then? Is this German bass maker pronounced War-wick (US version) or Worrick (UK version)?

Shims have never bothered me; the neck's held tight by four screws and I doubt the presence of a shim would do much to affect rigidity/sustain. When it's a choice between having a shim or putting up with an imperfect action I know which I'd choose.

With a name like that you can expect it to create embarrassing noises at inopportune moments...

Fender Rumble 500? They're using Genz Benz design technology, it's a 2x10 plus tweeter ... 350 watt fairly compact and lightweight combo, gets to 500 watt with an external cab.

I totally understand the love of the experimental hardware employed in physics - I have a degree in astronomy (UCL) so I got to play with some great toys as well

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1399720348' post='2446954'] Tuning BEAD usually means less tension than EADG because a B string is commonly less tense than a G string. [/quote] This is quite true, it's usually the D and A strings with the highest tension.

Unfortunately not around long enough to become better known but should I ever have a nice Lottery win I'd like to get my hands on one of Greg Curbow's basses (small bodied but can be quite heavy due to the rockwood necks and brass sustain blocks set in under the bridge).

Looks like you're going to have to put a bid in for that JV then! Taking inflation into account, £230 back in 1983 is the equivalent of £678 in today's money... http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-1633409/Historic-inflation-calculator-value-money-changed-1900.html

Ask fellow BCer grayn about his Cort GB75 - link to the thread about his purchase decision http://basschat.co.uk/topic/228075-went-shopping-for-a-fender-pj-but-came-back-with-2-corts/page__hl__cort+gb75__fromsearch__1

Buy a current Squier CV in Fiesta Red and wait 30 years?

I'm really looking forward to seeing this when it's finished - I'm sure others will have already said, it looks like you could easily make a living as a luthier!

[quote name='lowlandtrees' timestamp='1399706560' post='2446782'] I like heavy strings but the last couple of basses that I had did not /do not like em....Rick 4001 and MM SUB. Was thinking of getting a precision as I like the sound...will that take heavy strings or should I be looking elsewhere? Don't really understand neck profiles...should I be looking at a certain profile number? [/quote] Are you confident when it comes to setting your basses up? In other words are you used to messing about with the truss rod and bridge saddles in order to cope with any changes that may occur due to a difference in combined string tension? As others have said, as long as the truss rod works you shouldn't be having problems unless you've not bothered to adjust the instrument following a string change.

That binding really sets it off Happy NBD!

That's not my experience, I've got the RS 665LDN nickels on my 5 string (45 65 85 105 130) but I find I get better definition from the low B by playing it close to the bridge (between the pickup and bridge on my Curbow 5).

... and knobless

Ok how about getting hold of some clear acrylic tube and supergluing 5 short pieces (say 1cm long to the top) that the strings pass through and you snip up to the end of those? Use something like this? http://www.homecrafts.co.uk/buy-clear-acrylic-tubes-m824i?gclid=CI6ar6Chnb4CFdLHtAodnUEA0A

I'm curious to see what the tuners look like and how you take the ball ends around those - I guess you can't take the ball ends from the top of the neck instead can you? EDIT: Ah you beat me to it - hmmmm 'interesting'