HowieBass

You have to supply your own. It was the same situation with my B9.1ut.

Perhaps kids these days see other ways to achieve fame and fortune, more specifically Warhol's prediction come true of 'in the future everybody will be world-famous for 15 minutes'... stuff like reality TV and YouTube personalities.

[quote name='Doddy' timestamp='1410785813' post='2553066'] Even true bypass pedals affect the clean tone because you are effectively increasing the cable length,so a buffered pedal or two won't hurt. [/quote] I'd agree if it was a passive bass but the OP is using active basses so I don't think cable length is as much of an issue... though poor quality cable might be?

Sounds like one or more of the pedals don't have true bypass and might be impacting your clean tone. Have you checked each pedal on its own with no others in the chain in case it's one misbehaving more than the others? Splitting the chain as you've suggested sounds worth trying. I'm also wondering whether a noise gate might help? Edit: Another thing worth checking is what quality are your instrument and patch cables?

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1410780659' post='2552953'] Is that 5% of the total number of children? Or 5% of the children who play music, play bass? Im guessing its 5% of the children who play a musical instrument, play bass? Not overly surprised at that. [/quote] It's not overly clear according to the story but I think it's 5% of those who play any instrument at all; so there are nearly three times as many young drummers as there are bass players. We have been warned...

According to this BBC News story http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/education-29117849 only 5% of children are playing electric bass, bottom of the list of instruments; even less popular than percussion at 6%, electric guitar at 13% and drums at 14%!

Out of interest and for others intending to try this: 1. What have you filled the fret slots with? 2. Did you get the fingerboard as straight as possible through truss rod adjustment before applying the epoxy? 3. Have you got the neck supported such that the fingerboard is completely level? 4. What are you using to apply the epoxy?

The Harley Benton pedals from Thomann are the same as the Joyo pedals just in case you're struggling to get the one you want.

Ovni Labs did a comparison of many audio cables http://www.ovnilab.com/articles/cablechoice.shtml His summary... [i]Cutting to the chase, here are my personal top recommendations so far:[/i] [i]• Lava "ELC Tweed" • Armor Gold • DiMarzio (standard, nylon braid) • Live Wire "Elite" • Elixir[/i] [i]All of these deliver truly top-shelf performance, with no BS, at reasonable prices. Some of the super-expensive ones I've tested don't even work as well as these.[/i]

Assuming you have plenty of leeway in where to place it (over a correctly placed BBOT bridge) I suppose it's what looks right to you - I prefer to see the back of the cover no closer to the edge of the body than the pickguard comes; imagine a flowing line following that sort of route but of course whether that's faithful to whatever year a factory spec bass is supposed to have it is a different matter entirely.

Why Waters and not Simonon?

[quote name='BILL POSTERS' timestamp='1410684516' post='2551820'] Am I missing something here ? I started out playing with my thumb, then started using two fingers, then 3. I thought most people did it that way, sure I once saw an interview with Entwhistle who said the same thing. [/quote] Thumb is very old school I think, hence the position of the finger rest on the first P and Jazz basses. When the rest moved to above the strings it became the thumb rest so perhaps that's when fingerstyle became more popular, plus it's easier to play faster with fingers rather than the thumb (certainly in my case) which suits fast rock music rather than slower root note style playing.

Quite a few BCers have mentioned using the Boss LS 2 pedal where you can do lots of switching options with two send/return loops, designated A and B including having a mix of both A+B. GAK are selling them for £69 at the moment [url="http://www.gak.co.uk/en/boss-ls-2/1286?gclid=CPD2m4Om4MACFc7HtAodwgUARA"]http://www.gak.co.uk...CFc7HtAodwgUARA[/url]

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1410679289' post='2551777'] Isn't that called appoyonado? Read somewhere that sting had been trying it [/quote] No that's 'rest stroke' where the finger rests on the adjacent string after sounding a note. I've tried using my thumb just as an experiment, very different sound - Paul Simonon uses the technique. I've tried playing my fretless this way and it sounds somewhat like an acoustic double bass http://youtu.be/1cZzYSgFAlY

I'm not sure what size allen keys you have, there are metric and imperial sizes... you might be able to jam one in there and have enough purchase to get the bullet nut off. If you get it off then you should be able to buy a new truss rod nut and put that on it. You can get new truss rod nuts off eBay. Either that or put light gauge strings on which have less tension and the neck should have less relief. Neither option is free unfortunately

I thought all Steinbergers were graphite/composite necked? The body shape isn't particularly attractive IMHO.

You should be fine with flats on an untreated board, depending on what fingerboard variant you get with a SUB you might have a maple board which I believe is harder than rosewood (but then a maple board could have been lacquered which might then need to be stripped as part of the defretting process). Some players use rounds on fretless basses that have rosewood boards and don't see much wear (depends how much you play and how heavy handed you are when stopping the strings). I use raw linseed oil on my rosewood boards (including my fretless Cort) and that's supposed to make the wood a little more durable (as well as looking nice). To defret and fill with veneers plus recut the nut, I'd say £90 was great value for money, especially if they check and level the board for you. You can always have a full neck pocket shim inserted if the bridge saddles bottom out when setting the action.

You might not need the VT DI, a few people on here rate the similar Behringer pedal quite highly... http://youtu.be/SD0CN4rs8p8

I can't see any problems with the route you're considering, the dot position markers on the side of the neck will be in the 'wrong' positions regarding where to place your fingers but you'll have the edges of what's been used to fill the fret slots as a guide - will they fill with something like a veneer? If you get the defret done by a professional they should sort out the nut slot depths at the same time.

I doubt I'll be pulling the Trigger on that one... but I bet Chas & Dave would have it.

+1 for Dave's World of Fun Stuff (I'm a subscriber to his channel) and he's a bass player too (he likes his Fenders). I wonder if he knows about Basschat?

I've never had problems with nor felt the need to replace the Fender style retainers on my basses.

I wouldn't worry about losing a little of the bottom end by going for lighter strings; I'm sure you'll still sit well in a mix and your fingers will thank you for it.

According to the above and if my eyes don't deceive me you need to swap the black wires over (desolder the one that's on the tag and move it to the other tag, then solder the currently free floating wire to the now freed up tag). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXoPEmh39ls

Just gone through the Basic Level challenge and the one I had some difficulty with was noise, probably due to my loss of high frequencies (interestingly I picked up an increase in treble content to tell me which was which). Might keep the page open and try the other tests another time.