Dood

I went with the 8 battery 12volt version because I knew that rechargeable batteries only supply 1.2v - so, I gain from having two extra batteries in there but 1.2v x 8 = 9.6v. My pedals are getting the power they expect.

There are times when it feels like it is a bit of a pain to plug in power, so I invested in something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-2A-Battery-Box-AA-Battery-Clip-for-8-Batteries-with-DC-Cover-Switch-/291425322546?hash=item43da4d8632:g:biEAAOSw7aBVDQoh You have to make sure you get one with the correct output polarity (or in my case re-solder the power plug cable inside the box) I then bought 8 Panasonic Eneloop rechargeables. I think I managed to do the whole lot for under £20. I now have a stable battery back that I can drop on most pedal boards. It has been a few rehearsals now and I haven't recharged yet! I like that the box also has a power switch. So if this were attached to your board too, then a flick of a master switch will turn everything off. Further more, when it comes to recharge, you won't have to remove a single pedal.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1469055316' post='3095496'] Try running a cable between the send and return sockets. Those sockets are switched and are a weak point in many amps. [/quote] The Kilo has multiple loops - so it's worth checking them all. From what you are saying Astoroth, it might not be the preamp out/power amp in sockets. Then after that, (if the jumper doesn't fix) have someone (if you're not happy with lifting the lid) check all PCB jumper cables. (remove and reseat). Next up, replace the valves. You needn't go mad on buying the best of the best, but some good quality valves from the likes of Watford Valves will probably improve the sound of the amp too.

Thank you And yes, great pedal. Liked it a lot!!

Any more ideas of straps that allow the body to breathe a bit - but are also nice and wide?

Think I paid about £40 for mine on eBay. Maybe I was lucky lol!

[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1468999115' post='3094895'] one of them must of realised they are wrong so are staying silent [/quote] They're all on eBay looking for a cheap LS-2!

Just for my future reference: UPC/EAN: [color=#000000][font=roboto, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]609722149648[/font][/color]

You're a star! But yes, you are right - shipping is a killer! - I got in touch with Gotoh a while back as one of the washers on a tuning key had split. No problem, it was 89p for a new one. Shame about the £10 shipping from Japan!! The local (sort of) distributor wouldn't get one in.

They are very similar to computer keyboard button switches from the past, but again, Ive only found versions with short stalks.

Prompted by the thread in General, I am reminded that I need to get a new switch for my Boss LS-2. It's one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSS-REPLACEMENT-SWITCH-FOR-ALL-BOSS-EFFECT-PEDALS-PEDAL-FX-DELAY-CHORUS-REVERB-/172235592129?hash=item281a0a91c1:g:QiMAAOSwuMFUkNd3 But seriously, thats daft money. I'm pretty sure that these things can be picked up via Farnell / CPC / RS - but I really can't find the manufacturer or a part number to suit so I can spend the couple of quid that they're actually worth ha ha!! Anyone know?

So, Here's the way to do it using a proper LS-2 from Boss. Plug bass A in to RETURN A Plug Bass B in to RETURN B Set the MODE switch to A<>B Plug Your amp in to the pedal OUTPUT. You will need a dummy connector in the INPUT to power the pedal up but this will NOT affect the tone. If the GREEN LED is lit, input A is live and the GREEN knob sets it's level. Input B is muted. If the RED LED is lit, input B is live and the RED knob sets it's level. Input A is muted. You're all very welcome

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1468844468' post='3093681'] Get a contract sorted. We ask for 25% on booking confirmation and the rest paid in full two weeks before the big day. That way the band get paid and fuel covered [/quote] Yup, this. If you're doing function work and are commanding the sort of 'wages' you should from this work then make sure you are covered. If you need contract advice, then join the MU and make use of their extensive resources.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1468845000' post='3093692'] Not a particularly accurate method, but close enough for rock'n'roll [/quote] Using a tuner that has trouble picking up open strings, I'd say as an alternative it is indeed very accurate. Whereas fretting the notes at the 12th fret isn't so, depending on instrument and set up.

[quote name='grumpyguts' timestamp='1468791296' post='3093399'] I have an LH500.. Wot is the valve upgrade? [/quote] Have a chat with Watford Valves To be honest, the stock valve is 'OK', but there's quite a range of drive/noise tested valves out there which sound less murky. One of my favourites is a Telefunken clone, the JJ ECC83S. Especially a premium select version - the very best of the batch are Watford Valve's own Harma Str valves - and they are great. The obvious choice of course would be an original Mullard but I've not had the chance to get one in. I do have a NOS GEC 5751 from 1958. Getting geeky it's a MIL/MED spec one which is known for a particularly sweet tone. There are so many premium valves out there and they needn't break the bank. I'd even suggest buying a few and trying them to see what you like! Certainly if you have a noisy preamp then a valve upgrade will help!

[quote name='horrorshowbass' timestamp='1468180412' post='3089091'] Cool look forward to it dood. I guess what I'm asking is it's tuned EADG is there an advantage for fanned frets? Looks like an awesome bass, seriously considering gettin one [/quote] We didn't get to review the NG2-4 in the end but yes there will be an advantage for sure, especially with the right strings on too. I also envisage drop tuning to be improved too. I love knocking my five string down to A. The B string still retains its tone and feels under more control verses a 34" scale (unless you up the string gauge of course!)

Hartke LH (1000W or 500W) are about as simple as it gets yet some are still perplexed over the passive tone stack EQ. Upgrade the valve and you get a stonking amp for no money.

[quote name='EvilSmile' timestamp='1468762657' post='3093145'] Dingwall was my first thought about this too. I'd throw in the ABZ models as with the swamp ash bodies they can be very light, my ABZ 5 is 7.9lbs iirc. The nut is 45.5mm (if the 0.5mm will make a difference). 18mm string spacing, which I like as a nice compromise between narrower 16.5mm and 19mm on a 5 string, and has the most comfortable neck profile of basically every other bass i've played. I've recently had to go through a re-assessment of playing posture, weight distribution of instruments, fretting hand tensions etc. As I found myself suffering from repeated neck strains. So far, during the ~4 months of owning a Dingwall with correct strap setup, playing poster etc., I've had no re-occurring strains or injuries! Before the Dingwall my goto 5 string was a Yamaha BB 425x which was really heavy (as were all the other new yamaha BB's i've played), but I really liked the 18mm spacing and narrow nut. The Dingwall was basically the perfect upgrade, similar spacings and I actually prefer the slightly wider nut. One thing I found that helped with the Yamaha BB was getting a gruv gear Duo strap, so the weight of the bass is distributed over both shoulders. Using it with my Dingwall now, well, I barely feel the weight of the bass when standing up! [/quote] Now you are reminding me why I should keep my Dingwall!!! Absolutely +1 to that. It really is an effortless instrument to play for a 2 hour gig.

I have to be careful how I answer this one as I don't want to get in to trouble for advertising. However, depending on your budget, I would definitely recommend Dingwall basses. Especially the AB1. Mine weighs in at just 8lbs and has a very slim nut. Furthermore, one of the most important bits is that it balances perfectly on the leg. There is no headstock dive at all. Which means that when on the strap, there's no pulling on the shoulder either - which of course makes the bass feel much lighter too. Nice slim nut!