Twincam

You could try putting pressure on the nut more as you tighten while with the strings off trying to slightly back bow the neck yourself. You can do this between your knees or get someone to help. Might help to overcome a crossed thread. If not send it back. And of course make sure your turning the right way, it happens even if you've done 100s before.

I cant believe the whole sorry saga is still going on. I cant believe he also ripped off people with custom yo yo's previously.

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1453580354' post='2960835'] Excellent job there Twincam! [/quote] Thanks my fret work is very good if anyone from bc needs any doing I'm happy to help, even by post (ie a neck sent and returned)

Me too in County Durham. Fret work (leveling, crowning, 4 stage polish see pics), general and advanced set up work, some small repair work, soldering pot replacement, pre amp installs etc, Amp capacitor replacement. Recent example of work. BEFORE [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160118_17_06_39_Pro_zpsidi5drah.jpg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160118_17_06_39_Pro_zpsidi5drah.jpg[/IMG][/URL] AND AFTER [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160118_20_33_21_Pro_zps7xmrttwo.jpg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160118_20_33_21_Pro_zps7xmrttwo.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Not forgetting if using class d you need at least 4 times the power of a traditional amp valve, mosfet etc to get the "real" volume and "heft". Haha I'm joking of course or am I???

I actually think that's pretty cool.

"This maybe one of the best if not the rarest guitar sale for some time" Hahahahhaaaaaaaaaaa Hahahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaa Hahahaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahaaaaaa! That really did make me laugh.

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1453504623' post='2960245'] I preferred the unedited version [/quote] Haha

I sold Sid a Dha drive pedal. Payment was prompt, communication was good. Zero problems...

I love p basses but I don't see the appeal in both basses at that price, both look a bit fake in there wear on the scratch plates too I thought, maybe it's just the pics. Chiliwailer's bass is lovely though.

[quote name='highwayone' timestamp='1453445083' post='2959512'] I've been offered a swap on my MIA std Precision but might decline. They look lovely basses but don't seem a lot different to regular MIM''s considering they're nearly doubl the price. [/quote] I'm very interested in the road worn basses myself. I bet they feel great and I love the tuning heads and overall look, nitro paint is cool although I would want to relic one myself. I do wonder why if there so good how come there's loads being sold on this very forum, you see them pop up week in week out and only when the price is very keen do they sell then after a few weeks there back up again. I think personally there new and used prices are very steep for what is a mim bass with some small but cool upgrades. I can understand they have some better hardware and they are pre aged etc, I'm thinking the qc might be better? But then again would a factory worker think ah there road worn do I need to look as close? The price is still high imo. There clearly nice basses that have there place. As for swapping a for a mia p bass well that would be up to you. I think you would need to spend a few days with one to be sure or at least a few hours. Bear in mind the neck width on the road worn might be thicker as correct for the period imitated.

[quote name='No. 8 Wire' timestamp='1453418440' post='2959464'] The problem with Fender is they just don't give that information. You could well be right. I did a lot of reading about it a while back, came down on the side of more than likely Am Std than not, I'm not going to revisit all that though - a lot of contradictory information. There's a lot that if different on this bass from an MIM Std, it doesn't seem a great leap that the pickups might be different too. The specs list the pickup as 'Vintage Style', whereas the std MIM is just 'split coil'. The MIJ 50s bass is also listed with 'vintage style' pickups. It certainly suggests they are different to the std MIM if not actually any evidence they are the same as the pre 2012 Am Std. Anyway, mine sound good to me, but I am tempted to go for an SD pickup just out of curiosity and because that's what I've been happy with before. [/quote] It's a shame fender don't say. It's all a bit conflicting info. I suspect the road worns are wound different to other models but might be the same as some other reissue series. It's clear that fender put more effort into them anyway.

[quote name='No. 8 Wire' timestamp='1453414424' post='2959415'] Well I have to admit to being not 100% sure. On other websites, people have posted replies from fender that they have Am Std Pickups in them - however these were the pre 2012 version that have plastic bobbins and seem to be thought of as inferior to the ones currently in the Am Std. I've pulled mine while shielding, and they do indeed have the right numbers stamped on them and are plastic bobbins (my bass is a 2013). Could this be a case of fender using up their parts inventory? It's really hard to know with Fender. [/quote] I'm pretty sure all of them are just standard mex pickups and looking on fenders specs. And the codes on the bottom have been known to be the same on many pick ups no matter where there from. I only mention this as Ive been reading a fair bit on this. So unless the specs specifically say where there from there just standard to that factory. Also adding apparently the output is different to the us pickups.

Did they provide proof of all this as I would of asked for some still. I suppose they wouldn't have lied for the price level of said bass though. I still would of wanted a bit of compo for my wasted time and effort to re pack the bass etc.

[quote name='No. 8 Wire' timestamp='1453401566' post='2959240'] I have the non-roadworn version, exactly the same spec, just not battered. Great bass, love the neck, but not everyone will as its at the wider vintage correct width. The non roadworn tend to go cheaper so they are a good deal. The pickups are the same as the American Standard, which could be where the finished in the US rumour comes from. Our it could be they do th he roadworn finish in the states. [/quote] Are they really us pickups?

Tell them you put new strings on it at least.... Expensive ones at that and you want compensation for that!. Haha

[quote name='longtimefred' timestamp='1453389386' post='2959057'] its class D, so no. I need my amps to have actual power and heft. [/quote] They claim this will match older amps. I also like the fact we have a company saying that class d doesn't match older tech (till now apparently). From Darkglass Since bassists adopted them, class D amplifiers were seen as convenient version of much bigger and heavier, yet better sounding, amps. Most musicians were happy with compromising sound and power by saving money, weight and space. So a year ago we set ourselves up to end these compromises. We wanted the best sounding amplifier period: louder, more versatile and articulate. It just happens to be one of the lightest, most compact and elegantly designed bass amplifiers out there. Fully designed and built in Finland. We present you the Microtubes 700."

Very very cool. Any pics of its internals?

Always used parcelforce for within the uk. Never once a problem at all. You can only insure a guitar fully for loss and only up to a small amount for damage. Always picked up on time and so far have a 100% track record of delivery on time for me with no damage. I have a supply of thomann outer cardboard boxes. Which do a good job as they come with loads of packing too. Dpd have a good rep too. Always panic about the instrument after its left me. And especially if ones coming to me no matter what company there's always a risk. I'm sure parcel companies are trying to get there act more together.

[quote name='Muzz' timestamp='1453139078' post='2956778'] I think my basses are works of art, and I take good care of them: they don't get buckle rash because I don't wear buckles or sharp crap when I put a bass on, but if they get accidentally dinged, it happens. The first ding's the worst... I guess most of them could be described as 'boutique', but I've never hesitated to take them anywhere to gig, and I never would. I enjoy them, and I don't worry about them. [/quote] Didn't mr Stewart say "The first ding is the deepest"

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1453130255' post='2956636'] Sorry but I'm absolutely anal about trying to preserve my gear and want it all to be as mint as possible. I appreciate that they are for playing which is why I have more than one - this means that most are stored safely leaving only a couple out and at risk. [/quote] Would you reject one of your basses if it got marked up?

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1453123245' post='2956519'] If you scratch a bass it remains a musical instrument. If you refuse to play it, it becomes and expensive ornament. Very good and I'm stealing that and will pass it off as my own haha. [/quote]

I feel slightly torn between babying a bass and just enjoying playing and liking natural wear and tear. Even on older basses with plenty of marks I worry about marking them and I dare say even a factory worn bass I would be the same. On the other hand I do like seeing a well worn instrument. This makes me only look for certain basses that resist wear well or/and will look good when worn. Anyone else think like this?. I really just want to just own any bass and feel comfortable using them fully.

[quote name='PaulWarning' timestamp='1453121133' post='2956478'] I've increased the relief, the necks looks pretty straight to me, stopped the rattle up to fret 5 but it's worse after that, I suppose everything's a compromise, maybe I'm just being too picky, I asked the original question because I wondered whether any other pick players had this issue, that is, pick players need a higher action, I use a 1mm pick by the way, I only paid £135 for the bass so it's not worth spending money on it [/quote] You cant sight a neck you need to properly check with a feeler gauge under the 7th fret. Get a paper business card (not a plastic bank card etc) and fret at the first then use your elbow to fret the e at the higher frets then slide the business card in under the 7th and look very close business cards are 0.12 - 0.15 so good for setting up relief in general but not perfect this is in fender specs. The card should just have slight drag on it not moving the string up and absolutely no gap at all between it and the string. Then set string height for this you can use an Allen keys if you play hard set the height at the 12th if lighter the at the 17th. Any modern bass should be able to get a decent setup ive had squires that are excellent.