Norris

Already owning a thunderbird, the only other Gibson basses that appeal to me are the ripper & grabber. They don't make those atm though. I never could get on with the EB/SG shape and LPs don't do it for me either

They are not the most ergonomic and comfortable basses. Playing a non-cs on your knee is like torture after half an hour or so. Still iconic though

What type of binding are you using? I managed to get celluloid binding round a 1/4" turn. I used a hairdryer to get it nice and hot so I could bend it, then used weld-on to glue it. Once it was set, I then used a few drops of acetone in the slight gaps so I could pull those in and neaten it up

They are definitely a "marmite" bass. The litigious actions of the current CEO has not done much to endear people to the brand either. However I won't be selling mine even though I don't play it often. I find my P fills out my trio better. There is a good range of tones on tap, and they sound great when you get them clanking. They can also do a range of fuller tones, but just not the P sound I'm enjoying at the moment

I thought you were after a bass tab for a Queen song Good luck and do what your doctor says. Usually they prefer you to do some exercise, which gigging is ideal for. If it's causing you stress though that's a different matter

Last year we supported Talon, the Eagles tribute. They have some strange fans, bedecked in Talon t-shirts and adoring the phonies as if they were actually the Eagles. Bizarre folk

Apparently bass players are the rarity in my neck of the woods. We've had to dep the drummer a few times, but if I can't make a date the band doesn't play

I meant old solder that has been melted. That gungy brown stuff you occasionally see bubbling away is the flux. If you make a clean cut across your solder wire you may be able to see the flux - usually 6 cores of it embedded in the solder wire Edit: If you ever do any heating pipe soldering, the solder is solid core and you have to buy a separate tin of flux to dip the end in. Electrical solder has the flux incorporated

The output is directly related to the inductance, however it's much more difficult to measure than the resistance - hence the "rule of thumb" of using the resistance as a rough guide to output

A 25W iron may struggle to heat up a pot cover quick enough to solder onto it before the pot overheats. Certainly tinning the soldering iron tip just before soldering will help. Solder contains flux, which helps it flow, although this can boil off fairly quickly so should be done just before soldering the wires. A blob of fresh solder can also help to clean up a connection due to the flux content. Old solder will usually have no flux left in it

Usually the resistance of a pickup will be an indication of the number of turns on the coil. However the thickness of the wire will affect this (thicker wire = less resistance). The more turns on the coil, the higher the resistance and (usually) the hotter the output signal Edit: But the strength of the magnet(s) also plays a part in the output level

Which one of these p*ssheads is going to knock my teeth out by crashing into my mike stand or fall over my pedalboard? (It was the latter last night, managing to pull the power lead out - luckily no damage)

I saw him at a festival last year. Although I wasn't particularly a fan, his set was one of the highlights for me. He gave us a bit of his life story as he played through his hits. A very eloquent and entertaining performance. Oh, and it was fantastic hearing 5000 people singing along to Glad To Be Gay at the tops of their voices

Ok, we're playing a song I barely know for the first time ever... how does the middle 8 go?!

It's not coaxial cable then. Ok, as you were...

I have a SB-1000 of similar vintage. Afaik the lacquer is nitrocellulouse (although a mate of mine stripped and refinished it) - it certainly is now on mine Take care if steaming the dents out as it could damage the existing lacquer. Steaming forces moisture into the wood, causing the wood fibres to swell and hence reducing the dent. This could cause the lacquer to lift, or go cloudy. Steam is best on bare wood if possible

Wouldn't the shielding be round the hot wire (i.e. red)? Otherwise it wouldn't be shielding the signal

+1 Aluminium foil is harder than rust & verdigree, but softer than the chrome so won't damage it

As @Andyjr1515 says, a bradawl divot will help get the hole in the correct place and stop the drill bit wandering. A sharp nail would do as well if you don't have a bradawl

Are you using my garage?! It sounds very similar! Unfortunately my garage is full of greasy bits of my VW camper engine that I'm rebuilding. It's not done much for guitar building time over the summer, but it's Mrs Norris' baby and I regard it as an investment in brownie points against future build time Anyway, you've got a great eye for a gorgeous curve. Beautiful work sir! I look forward to seeing the fruits of your labour at a future bash

You've got some lovely flowing curves on the bass. While you've done a lovely plate, it is a bit pointy for that bass imho

I don't mind most covers, but what I really dislike is the recent trend for adverts using dour cover versions by "quirky" female singers accompanied by melancholy piano. Usually they destroy a classic song, be it rock, dance, punk: the original genre is irrelevant. I'm looking at you Lloyds Bank especially, but perfume ads are guilty too. May they burn in whatever final destination for naughty people your chosen religion prescribes

Without Lovely work!

I meant the highest fret up the dusty end

That fretboard looks a lovely piece of wood Erm... where's the top fret wire?