Chienmortbb

J'adore ale vrai.

Let me know when you are down and I'll buy you a beer.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1473687061' post='3132243'] I'm in the hole for six quid! The stakeholders will be furious! [/quote]I amor could be jealous. Just paid £10 for a Guitarman. It is accurate for four string, according to both my pedal tuner and the Peterson Strobe Tuner on the phone. Sorely tempted to try one of these though.

The problem with Class D is a marketing problem more than a real one. ICEPower modules come in all wattages and sizes as do most amplifier modules. The ratings are often based on hi fidelity. Having started my own build using a class D amp I can tell you that the specs are a nightmare to decipher but there is nothing inherently wrong with Class D. The module used in the Tonehammer 500 is rated at 500 watts but for m music reproduction. This is from the data sheet: "[font=Flama][size=1]The ICEpower250ASX2 module is designed for music reproduction, which means that the output power of the amplifier will never be continuous. Research has shown that the RMS level of any music signal does not normally exceed 1/8[/size][/font][font=Flama][size=1]th [/size][/font][font=Flama][size=1]of the peak value and the power supply is therefore designed for large short-term power handling and lower continuous power handling. If the average output power of the ICEpower250ASX2 exceeds 60W @ 4[/size][/font][font=Symbol][size=1]Ω [/size][/font][font=Flama][size=1](SE-mode with both channels driven) or 180W @ 8[/size][/font][font=Symbol][size=1]Ω [/size][/font][font=Flama][size=1](BTL-mode) for a long time at 25°C ambient temperature, the module will reach its maximum allowable temperature and the temperature protection will be activated. [/size][/font] " There are only two ways to get temperature down, more metal in the shape of a large additional heatsink and/or forced air cooling (fans). In my opinion, and it is only mine, there is not enough heat sinking to allow the fans to do their job properly on the TH500. In my own build of a non-ICEpower based amp, I have almost trebled the heatsinking area. This is because, like the ICEpower modules, the thermal calculations are based on music reproduction. For MI use, especially bass, you need more continuous power and that means more het dissipation and more attention to thermal design. In addition the Tonehammer has its own "sound" and that is in effect pre-dialled EQ. Anything off flat will limit what you can get access the range from an amp. class D modules are a too for the amp designer but they need to use the properly to get the most from the module. Below is my part built amp. the two silver lumps are extra heatsinks and the heatsinking on this module is already better, although unseen, than the ASX250 used by Aquilar. In addition there will be a fan that will switch on as heat rises to ensure the the amp runs cool, it is under the main model drawing cool air in and cannot be seen. Of course many people are more than satisfied by the TH500 and who am I to say they are wrong. Many renowned amps such as the Glockengangs use Class D modules and I have never seen complaint about those. In the end if you want a really lightweight amp, weighing a couple of kilos, or under 4.5 lbs, it may not fill your boots with warm silky bass. Finally if you feel you are not getting enough from your amp, it may be your cabs. Bill Fitzmaurice uses a fairly low powered Ashdown (sorry ~Bill `i forgot the model) with one of his very efficient Jack Speakers and he probably has more "heft" than you could shake a 35"scale bass neck at.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1473623849' post='3131793'] Hmmm... If I wanted to restore punch I would replace the Jazz with a Precision. You can make a P sound nasal but it's much easier with a J! [/quote]Just what I was thinking. Jazz does not have the bottom end to give an amp a chance.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1473623849' post='3131793'] Hmmm... If I wanted to restore punch I would replace the Jazz with a Precision. You can make a P sound nasal but it's much easier with a J! [/quote]Just what I was thinking. Jazz does not have the bottom end to give an amp a chance.

Thanks I think I have corrected it.

The three day Poole Blues Festival starts on Friday 16th September. Highlights of the weekend include sets by Blue Touch, The Red Crow. The festival kicks off with yours truly on bass with No Direction at All (The Old Gits Band) at the Kings Head, 6 High Street, Poole. Poole Blues Festival On Facebook or www.pooleluesfestival.co.uk

The second operas just as duccesful but other things have delayed the project. You may remember that I stated this thread when my wife was ill. She got progressively worse and I took on the role of full time carer. Sadly she died in June. I am still sorting out the many problems bereavement caused but I will be continuing the project soon.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1473060453' post='3126385'] In that situation a piezo tweeter might be worth trying, they cost pennies and don't need a crossover. The down side is that they don't sound great but if they are just your personal monitor for the synth they might just give you enough to save you spending a fortune. There won't be a huge effect on your bass sound either. Power handling isn't great, they are usually rated in the maximum voltage they can handle 25-35V rms which equates to around 100W at 8 ohms, synth puts out a lot of power into the horns. The simple solution is to wire two in series ( I can hear Stevie and BFM flinching here as this is sooo wrong acoustically) It will work though I've got a box full of these in the loft , if you want to try and are happy to pay postage pm me and I'll send you a couple gratis. you can try them just resting on the cab and build a box after if you are happy with how they sound. [/quote]The old Motorola piezos sound great if you do use a crossover. The problem is most people bought Motorola's hype about not need if a crossover. Used correctly they have far less distortion than a typical compression horn. I will be building the 1x12 very soon and intend to put a piezo in it. If you are happy for me to try it and post my results in the 1x12 thread I am happy to do it. Sorry for the thread derail.

Be aware of 2 ohm stable amps. Many off them are not stable for long.

So the SW 2016 bassbash is...... Let's start a new thread and get one sorted'

Phil is convinced that the specs on that driver changed dramatically at some point. The 10-300 models well for a PA cab but Phil thinks it is lacking something as a bass speaker.

Just bought this. It is the Mk 1 Silver Grill version. According to the guy I bought it from it was gigged 4 times and it is immaculate. He through in a cover and still had the Owner's Manual. I gave home the full £80 asking price and it was a steal. Pics to follow. Problem. I gave hit my global limit for pics. I will upload to my website and link to it later.

I got the model wrong it is an MB115

I have been offered it for £80. Couldvprobsmly get it for £70.

I have the chance of one of these and looking at the specs on the GK site it looks good. However the UK distributor and dealers are offering the MB115 Mk 2 although there is Only one mentioned on the GK site. Is this a case of a problem product "rebranded" to infer the problem is fixed. Has anyone any info on this range?

I love the 201 but have been thinking that all my heroes played on BBOT. Has anyone tried the Wilkinson one?

If you join the Jam Club, the SM212 is under £80 with free delivery.

By going to 18v rather than 9v, assuming the current state the same (unlikely) the available Power is doubled. Some circuits nay use low vintage ICs and 18V may be too much. However most circuits will run happily on 9 or 18V. You need the Circuit Diagram (schematic for those of you that spend too much time on Talkbass). If you can't read a circuit diagram, leave it alone!

Reassuring as I am about to build one.

Entwistle have never had the Neos on the website. They are available on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231141252091

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1469885865' post='3101785'] Input and output wattage have nothing to do with each other, an Ampeg SVT 300 watt head draws 430 watts at 230 volts for example, them valves creating heat and light are wasting power compared to a modern high efficiency amp. A Crown 2500 watt PA amp will take 600 watts at input voltage. [/quote]So it can't be a 2500 watt amp then. The point is that anything you connect to the mains will have a surge current when switched on, several times its operating current. So use the recommended fuse and fir an IEC lead it is 10-13 Amps.