Lfalex v1.1

How about standing the bottom cab (vertically) on the floor for lf reinforcement, and stick a crate (or whatever you choose) between the upper and lower cabs. Raises the upper cab for the clarity, keeps the centre of gravity lower than 2 cabs on a crate and retains the lf boundary reinforcement from the floor for the lower cab.

Standard Js are single coils- but in the standard implementation, one is RWound/Rpolarity and effectively hum-cancels the other provided both volume controls are at the same level.

The real reason is that my OCD can't stand the uneven P pickup with 2 pole-pieces in one half and 3 in the other. So I killed the majority of them with fire. Sorry gents. As you were....

I've no issue with hefty instruments , but I'm glad my Infinity SN4 is chambered. If it were solid Zebrano, it'd be a real boat anchor! I reckon 16lb+ ,and it's only a 4...

Not sure I'd want to Re-lick something someone had licked already! 🤣

Again, I'm inclined to reference my experience with the Chapman Stick. All one-piece, no body at all and very light/rigid (especially the aluminum railboards and bamboo sticks). The sustain is ridiculous. But that may be attributable to the sensitivity of the pickups.

Until very recently, I'd have absolutely agreed with you, citing the low B of my Steamer LX6 as evidence. I now own a 10 string Chapman stick. Lowest pitched string is Low "C". The tone and clarity are simply amazing. And this from an instrument that weighs very little indeed- about 6lbs at the most. I can't rationalize it. But it sure sounds good.

I shall watch with interest, for I, too am intrigued. At the price point I'm not expecting the one bass to rule them all, but 2 pickups with coil switching and a 3 band eq with mid-sweep should give some varied tonal options.

I can't advise you much on pickups themselves, but I do have a suggestion arising out of my experiences with a Stingray 5 and a Status Streamline with series/parallel switching on both pickups. Stingray- Great. Did exactly what you'd expect. Status Streamline- All over the show. Flick a switch, and the output levels went bananas. In short, I believe that the Stingray 5 has a resistor (of differing values) on each of the coil switching options such that the outputs of Series and Parallel taps are reduced to that of the single coil. The volume and 3band EQ then function as normal.

That's rather nice... Do they do a matching headstock option?

Sorry for the pedantry! It's based on my experience with my NS 5CR EUB. Markers everywhere! (though they are subtle)

Not wishing to belittle or avoid the OP's question, but hardware colour is more important (black resists my sweat best!) Also, I'd take a vile finish on a better sounding, better playing bass over a pretty finish that played like a dog and sounded awful. That said, I nearly always end up with black or natural!

Side dots at fret positions- but only where markers might normally be; 3,5,7,9, double @ the octave and so on. Anything else is too much!

Yamaha SBV for me, please. Not nearly as wonky as some posted before...

I did. I saw a lot of 50-110 and 45-105. Don't recall any hybrids being mentioned. Either way, whatever.

Am I the only one who plays 45, 65, 80, 100 (125 on a fiver) ? (Standard tuning, btw) I personally favour a heavier G&D string as I find 40 and 60 a bit "twangy", but that's personal preference for you...

Exactly this. 1&2 outweigh the other options. 5 is another option, as side-projects might also be.

1st bass- Westone Raider 1 1st amp- Proamplifiers "Demon" 80w 1x12. Did my first gig with that bass (And I still have it) The amp was too small/ with and replaced by a very skanky 2nd hand Trace 1110 for gig duties. I was going to remark on the fact that no-one went too mad on their first instrument, but then saw the Thumb 5 and SB700. I Guess if you're already playing something else to a reasonable standard, then investing in a more expensive bass (in the knowledge that you'll likely stick with it) makes more sense.

Liking the SWR head & Cab more than the Burns. Until that pint goes in it, of course.

I played a gig seated once. I'd been involved in a car accident and used my Hohner B2AV as my back was not happy. I managed to get the rest of the band to give me a lift AND carry all my gear/ set it up. First and only time that happened! 🤣

(Just to be difficult) Either leg! I watched a classical guitar vid, and they all favour their left leg (being predominantly right- handed), so I thought I'd give it a try. It does seem that R leg gives better lower fret access as it's a shorter reach.

Another one for Vigier; Mine's a Passion V series III from 1996. I've had it from new, and it's never put a foot wrong. Can sound a little too strong in the upper mid in isolation, but that just shines through in the mix and helps give it its voice. Impeccable fit, finish and playability. As previous posters have mentioned, they don't do "vintage" very well. Also rans; A Warwick Fortress Masterman- excellent balance and a Stingray- matching tone if you want it. Not very pretty, though. Oddly, My Ibanez EDB605. Yes. A plastic Ergodyne. Neutral to the point of being sterile-sounding, but very flexible (and cheap!!)

Agreed! I spontaneously played what can only be described as a double-stop except it was across 2pairs of octaves that were 2 octaves apart. I nearly fell over. Just as well I was using headphones, it could've been quite scary through an amp! It probably won't happen again! 😂