Lfalex v1.1
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Everything posted by Lfalex v1.1
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[quote name='pete.young' post='1272898' date='Jun 17 2011, 04:15 PM']Sorry, but I don't buy this. An extra 90lbs is insignificant when you consider the weight of the vehicle is going to be at least a tonne to start with.[/quote] Not so. It's still nearly 2% extra mass for the car to pull around, wear out tyres, decrease braking/suspension performance (and longevity). I've modded my car for better fuel economy and performance. First thing I did was chuck out as much redundant weight as possible, starting with the (full sized) spare wheel.. And remember, cabs die in hot cars.
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Not an expert, but I've never seen a lacquered Rosewood fretboard either, irrespective of the serial# issue. Not sure? probably Best avoided unless you get to play it and it proves to be a blinder regardless of origin...
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This is NOT a "what's the best bass for metal" question!
Lfalex v1.1 replied to Evil Undead's topic in General Discussion
[quote name='Bilbo' post='1273555' date='Jun 18 2011, 10:50 AM']Spill the blood of a virgin jazzcat on it and you'll be fine[/quote] Fixed. -
This is NOT a "what's the best bass for metal" question!
Lfalex v1.1 replied to Evil Undead's topic in General Discussion
I have a reasonable selection of basses to draw upon. If the gig is not overly important, I will often select an "inappropriate" bass. Pointy Westone for a folk gig... Purple Yamaha for a Metal gig... Warwick for an Indie gig... However, The Funk/Punk/Pop/Grate/Grind/Thrash (delete as applicable) is in your fingers/plectrum. What you play and how you play it is infinitely more important than your choice of bass, and particularly what colour it is. -
[quote name='Bilbo' post='1273471' date='Jun 18 2011, 09:17 AM']Abd the award for the 2011 'Basschatter that starts the most weird threads the most' - Its PETE ACADEMY (cue thunderous applause.....) Sorry, peeps. I often leave home and do not need the toilet until I get home 6 hours later. I am, of course, an android and do not drink liquids.[/quote] I, the inverted camel, can last almost a day without need to urinate or defecate. 'Tis a useful talent if needed... Otherwise, I find this thread just a bit too "Iggy Pop" for my liking. Why? Someone once gave him loadsa pills. Which he duly ingested. No. Not illicit narcotics. Laxatives. He did the gig half-on, half-off-stage, with his a**e over a bucket! What a pro!
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I was going to say; Ped, one of the Bass Docs (never can remember user names!)- Nick, not Howard!, or or (humbly) me.. Do be aware that they've "evolved" a [i]lot[/i] between Series1 (like this one) and Series4 (current), with numerous changes in between. They have, however, retained many of the same central design and construction concepts. Oh, and the fit, finish and QC are beyond reproach. I've never seen, heard of or played a duffer yet. I have an S3 Passion 5, and it is utterly superb.
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Warwick Basses - Harder to get in the UK now?
Lfalex v1.1 replied to Linus27's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='Linus27' post='1268525' date='Jun 14 2011, 12:34 PM']I have no idea what nu metal is [/quote] old-hat. -
Very nice. That's two of these that have passed this way second-hand recently... Don't tell me they're "unfashionable"!
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Why are there so many Fenders/MM basses for sale???
Lfalex v1.1 replied to TheGreek's topic in General Discussion
[quote name='Delberthot' post='1269827' date='Jun 15 2011, 11:14 AM']Maybe beause a lot of people love them and pour out all their emotions about them here. Someone reads it and thinks 'that's the bass for me'. Buys it and then wonders what all the fuss is about so sell them... ...There will be other reasons and perhaps some of what I have said is sh*te but sometimes Fender is made out to be the be all and end all of basses - I've even seen threads where people have said that 'I have X Y and Z, all I need now is a Fender' Why?[/quote] When I was saving for my first new bass (after my s/h Westone), I decided to try a Fender Jazz, and liked the shape and balance of the instrument, and it seemed logical to aspire to something I'd tried and liked. Ultimately, I saved up too much (!) and had a budget 3 times greater than a Jazz would've cost, so I opted for a Fiver instead, and after rooting through loads of stuff at The (Wapping) Bass Centre, purchased a Vigier! Which brings me neatly to the second point. I had X,Y&Z (Vigier, Warwick, Musciman, Yamaha Attitude, Ibanez), but still felt there was a place in the collection for a Jazz. With a good collection behind me, there was no rush, and I simply tried every one I saw until I found a corker and bought it; Ash-bodied 2004 MIA S1 Jazz in Trans Sunset Orange. Currently strung with DR Sunbeams. Really nice bass. Perhaps I should tweak the action a smidge lower. Then again, perhaps I shouldn't! Maybe I just like the Ergonomics of the Jazz in general? Not so keen on the Precision... But that's just me. -
[quote name='deepbass5' post='1269358' date='Jun 14 2011, 10:30 PM']He probably knows if he puts them on, on the last day they won't be able to resist staying behind to pick up the rubbish. [/quote] Yeah, I thought that. Hope it doesn't rain too hard, it'll be a bugger to get the mud out of their fur. Last time I saw' em on TOTP or whatever, the one playing bass had a Ken Smith 6 of some sort (seriously), so I guess they're doing ok... Or is that another thread?!
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[quote name='mrtcat' post='1269067' date='Jun 14 2011, 07:26 PM']Thanks for the input guys, all points are noted. Should stress that I'm not going to try to make a living from this as I have a decent day job already. It's just that I'd like to offer the service and use it to fund holidays / new gear etc whilst enjoying the building. The limit on builds allowed by the franchise would never allow it to become my sole income. It's interesting to hear that vmaxblues has struggled to sell a cab as they're very good sounding kit. I wonder if the fact that prospective buyers could choose their cab and spec might help.[/quote] I would keep a bare minimum of stock (if any, in fact) and maybe have a couple of demo models for those nearby to try. Otherwise, I would build to order, taking a deposit in advance. Offering a variety of colours/finishes would be cool too. Outside of these criteria, it might be a good idea to try and establish a realistic lead time from receipt of order to completion of cabinet. There's nothing worse than ordering something and being kept waiting longer than you were told it would take... Good Luck, though!
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These have got to be good for modification purposes. Chuck a BadAss (other bridges are available!) on it, add an EQ or two of your choice, definitely have some series/parallel/single coil (delete as appropriate according to model of choice) switching, and away you go...
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One need only listen to "Look Sharp" and "I'm The Man" (Joe Jackson LPs).. His ability and talent is immediately evident, even in a studio environment. Playing an Ibanez IIRC... Awesome.
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I like JJs. I liked it in the "old" MIA Deluxe P in the bridge position, and the MEC versions found in the Infinity/Vampyre/Dolphin/Fortress MM etc. work a treat, too. In reality, they don't work or sound [i]that[/i] different to what you'd expect a MMHB to. I don't think Fender are just chucking stuff together. These configurations have already been used by other manufacturers. I do wonder which neck is on which bass, though. To be really perverse, they could use a P neck on the Jazz body and vice-versa for the other model!
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I like. I like both. Especially if one or both of the JJ(big block)pick-ups are coil-tapped. But... Why put the PP in a J body and the JJ in a P body. Surely it ought to be the other way around (mind you, it'd put the P-lyte out of business, so to speak) Pity they didn't go for the Warwick/Enwistle PP with the reverse offset P at the bridge position. Still, if I want a JJ/JJ with coil switching in a J body, there's always a Roscoe Beck... If I can get one. I like the fact that Fender are trying new stuff out, What we need now is a J/P/JJ "Super-Urge" or a HB/P/JJ "Tele-tude"!!
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[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1264684' date='Jun 11 2011, 10:12 AM']I have yet to work out why so many people want new instruments. If it's not a Custom or something really unusual that you just [i][b]have [/b][/i]to own, then let someone else take that initial hit.[/quote] Maybe I just have a talent for buying awesome basses at very reasonable prices, even when they're new? I've only bought 2 s/h basses so far. I have taken a slight loss here and there on some I sold on (through lack of use) but nothing major. I reckon at least five of my instruments purchased new would break even or hit profit if I sold them s/h. One would make sufficient to cover any losses on the others in any case! Meanwhile, back on topic; How can £1048 (surely some bizarre Trace Elliot reference!) be acceptable, and £1167 be too much? There's only about 10% difference, and you can always stretch a little bit... I don't get the big price differential between the Rosewood Am Std and the Maple Am Std either.. Did I miss something? In any case, sounds like a toss-up between the Maple Am Std and the 60th Anniversary to me. The 60th might re-sell better... Until the 65th, 70th, 75th etc. come along. You could always start saving for the centenary edition. When will that be? 2051?
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"Musician's BlingRay"
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"MusicBland SuckRay"
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Not a lot more than a [b]Re[/b]-fret. £150? Watchout for 'board markers; The edge markers will align with the frets, not the "gaps". Being a fretless originally, I doubt it'll have markers on the front face...
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Get a soundhole plug. Helps stop the top resonating. Less prone to acoustic feedback.
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[quote name='famstd' post='1259238' date='Jun 7 2011, 03:13 AM']The board radius, and the measurement at the nut, for most players isn't as crucial as the overall shape of the neck itself.[/quote] Particularly the depth (from the front face of the fretboard to the back of the neck. That's the deal breaker for many people.
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Well... If you have the time / materials / inclination, I don't see why not. I was appalled at the "bell-wire" lurking inside my Trace cabinets (and the lack of any internal damping or bracing) If you're that bothered, stick some push-fit connectors to the cable, so you can temporarily fit the cables and try them. Just remember to solder them up once you've mad a decision!
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I'd have said that the only place that a 1 or 2 mm change in measurements would make a difference is in string spacing. Fortunately, there's [s]an app for that[/s] bridges with adjustable string spacing available. All you need add is pick-ups with bladed pole-pieces so your string alignment/output doesn't suffer...
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There might be a bit of truth to TC's spiel... Drivers/Loudspeaker systems' impedance is not fixed. It varies with frequency. If you plot a graph of frequency (horizontal axis) against Impedance (vertical axis), the resulting trace (no pun intended) describes the system's modulus of impedance. This shows how much the demand on the driving amp changes in a real-world setting. The figures quoted on cabinets for reference (4 ohm, 8 ohm etc.) are Nominal impedance figures. I presume that the TC cabinets' impedance does not present too varied a load in its various combinations. They're not likely to research all the other alternatives from other manufacturers...
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Anthrax & Megadeth Clinic @ Digital Village
Lfalex v1.1 replied to MadisonSounds's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='Low End Bee' post='1255510' date='Jun 3 2011, 02:57 PM']An Anthrax & Megadeath clinic sounds like the worst waiting room in the whole of the NHS.[/quote] Actually, that's just down the road at Queen's Hospital.
