Maude

Hmmm, do I like a Yamaha bass? I currently have a BB424x, BBPH, BB734a, BB1100s fretless, Attitude Ltd II, and a pair of BEX4s. They're alright I spouse. 😁

Check out the OKKO FX Motorbass pedal. I don't know if it's what you want, or need, but it's meant to be instant Lemmy.

This is the back of the neck on mine. I think the issue is the actual cutout for the truss rod adjuster. The two front fixings are 65mm back from the heel, the cutout goes right through the neck, the 'T' section where the nut is is probably about a third of the neck width removed, the fretboard ends about 30mm away so adds no bracing. If the two fixings are holding it down but the strings are trying to pull it up, the weakest point is the truss adjuster cutout. If the neck is bending here then that would account for the nut looking like it changes angle the more tension is put on it. @BigRedX suggestion of putting two extra fixings in as far forward as possible would probably alleviate this. Edit, just to add that if a shim was placed at the bridge end and then all four neck fixings tightened then this would add even more bend into that weak area as the heel pushes against the body, hence my suggestion earlier of shimming both ends (one more than the other) to introduce the angle without the heel becoming compressed.

Yes, that was my initial reaction, but as @Hellzero suggested, you could shim so the bridge end lifted increasing the neck angle, but then shave down the end of the neck the bridge mounts on so that the bridge if effectively lowered. The bridge mounts on the centre section/neck. The body itself is completely unneeded other than to mount the controls (and the outer pickup screws).

Yes, I didn't think of shaving down the bridge mounting area. Good idea. One thing worth considering with the shimming approach is that the front (neck end) pair of screws that hold the centre into the body are 65mm back from the end of the pocket. Shimming the bridge end will pivot the neck at the end of the pocket and the front screws being 65mm away from this pivot point will try and bend the neck if tightened down fully. It'll only be a slight amount and might not be a problem, but worth considering maybe. Edit, The above problem (if it is one) could be alleviated by adding shims under both pairs of screws. If the bridge needed a 1mm shim for instance, then a 2mm shim under the bridge end and a 1mm shim under the neck end would hopefully allow the neck to be tightened down without putting a bend in it.

Although the neck bolts to the body, it's more like neck through stick bass with bolt on wings. The bridge and pickups mount to the central neck piece. If you lost the controls you could effectively use the bass without the body at all, almost. It's a bit early but I can't see that you could shim the neck to change angle.

Joker and the Thief - Wolfmother

Fingers crossed there'll be a long run of 'The Elvis Experience' performing Jailhouse Rock.

Gotta Go - Agnostic Front

Firstly, all Yamaha basses are excellent quality. At any given price point you get more than your moneys worth. As for other options, off the top of my head as I own one, a Warwick Starbass. I have the Rockbass (budget) version, 32" scale, lightweight being hollow (semi?), slim neck front and to back and I think it's a 38mm nut, maybe 40mm. I think it looks great, the pickups give a great range of tones, a great all rounder. This is the one I bought, Starbass Link seems to keep linking to this page, I've given up trying 😁

Cool Jerk - The Capitols

Iron Fist - Motorhead

Jesus Built My Hotrod - Ministry

It doesn't matter but always thought the pre cool tube preamp was a B10 and the later one with the cool tube was a TB10. I came very very close to ordering one on a few occasions, but ultimately I think it wouldn't replace either my doublebass or an electric bass, so would end up unused.

My son has fallen foul of this seller choosing delivery malarkey. As usual the scamners are one step ahead. He has been selling off a lot of his Star Wars Lego collection to pay off some debt. Sold one set for £160, seller chose cheapest delivery option and when the set arrived claimed that he had been sent a box of old boxer shorts. Sent ebay a picture of the box filled with boxer shorts and ebay have refunded him and made my son pay to return the item. As it was cheap delivery nothing was weighed which would be his only hope of proving what was returned didn't match what was sent out. He's fighting ebay but at the moment he's one lego set and two lots of postage down and the proud owner of the scamners old pants.

So it's actually a very authentic copy then? 😂 To be fair I am a fussy git. Which makes anything I do a nightmare, as unless I can get it absolutely spot I'm never happy. It's a curse I tells ya! 😁

I had to sign up to Facebook for band reasons and didn't want to use my real name as I hate all that previous acquaintance 'wants to add you as a friend' shite (if I haven't stayed in touch there's a reason). It's not really a 'stage name' but I signed up as Lowdown Al (Allan being my real name) and it's kind of stuck as a stage name now as obviously that's what it says when I'm tagged in stuff. If/when I'm introduced on stage it's usually "On bass, Lowdown Al, lowering the tone since '73". My username is another story, which I probably should've used as a stage name looking back. 😁

Mine had tail lift and I much prefer heavy strings so something had to be done. I figured as the bridge was 'knackered' and would need replacing to use heavy strings then there was no harm in butchering it. I drilled two holes through the big rear flat area (OK slightly curved for the pendants 😉), countersunk them and put a pair of stainless steel screws through and pulled the tail down flush. It's been perfect for five years now. Rickenbacker started doing this themselves I believe, although somewhat more elegantly.

Yes, I realise all of that. But you'll be the first to admit you'd rather see a genuine TRC on a faker rather than a Rickenbacker one. As it is definitely a Matsumoku build and all the information I have is that it was in originally branded Aria, and I have a Rickenbacker and Rickenbastard TRC to hand, what TRC would you opt for? There's a only one of those four that it could possibly left the factory with, or would you choose a different brand name that Matsumoku built for completely randomly. Leaving it off is not a an option either for aesthetic reasons. I completely understand that a brand name on most Japanese fakers is irrelevant as all you can be sure of, once the TRC is gone, is which factory made it but I've gotta to pick something.

Because the previous owner took the Aria one off 😁. But I know what you mean. I've considered a 'Matsumoku' one in the Rickenbacker style but that's wrong as well. I've got no reason not to believe it wasn't badged as an Aria originally.

My Aria came with a Rickenbastard TRC. I have a spare Rickenbacker one but I don't want that either. I really want the original Aria one but can I find one? Annoyingly the previous owner had swapped and said he had it somewhere (in the middle of a house move) and would forward it on. I've since messaged but nothing.

I'd have only been able to collect it today, I have to go somewhere and the bass is about 10 miles further on... But happily, it sold last night. Not surprising for a fiver.

I've just realised we're now just over 3/4 of the way through the year. Well done to all those still in, and a scornful, finger wagging, shame on you to all those that have caved in to the shiny temptation of new gear. I'm currently being tempted by another bass that I don't need, or really want. A fairly hideous Kay rickenbacker faker with the wrong pickup and pickguard... But it is only £5!