dannybuoy

^ BB425 has the laminate neck and thru-body stringing also. Which pickups are best would be down taste I suppose, I've not compared them! But as the previous owner of a black BB415 and current owner of a black BB1025X, I say get the black one!

It will sound a bit harsher, so then you might find yourself needing a tone knob all of a sudden! I tried rewiring the S1 switch on my Precision to a tone/vol bypass, it sounded thinner that way, so switched it back.

It's quite different, the YYZ has less sizzle and a lot more midrange, and doesn't have the same low end punch as the DP-3X due to the lack of compression. IMHO the DP-3X is the way to go if you want the bass to help make the entire mix sound bigger and better. YYZ if you want the bass to be more of a lead instrument rather than a supporting one.

I thought all BB 5 strings were 18mm? My BB415 was and so is my BB1025X, I believe the new ones are also.

Yeah he stated so on the TB thread. Most likely recorded direct from the pedal. Is the Sansamp model available on the Helix yet? If so I'd try a clean signal EQ'd with a bass boost and treble cut, in parallel with a HPF (the tight switch) into a parametric mid boost, into the Sansamp. Might be able to skip the mid EQ if the Sansamp is modelled after the v2 with the mid control AND that pedal has the mid control before the clipping section like the YYZ (I've no idea but it's easy to tell by seeing if boosting/cutting mids gives you more/less grit). £249 is rather expensive yes. I don't know if @tonyxtiger has any left at the discount rate. I got mine from US eBay for about £170 delivered, no customs charges and took a week - but you take a gamble on whether the seller marks the package value down! Quite a few do by default, they must realise it's good for business!

It's Tim Starace, the bearded chap who's posted many many vids of Rush covers with various Tech21 preamps. I just assumed he was in a Rush cover band or something, but was pleasantly surprised by that track also. I'll be checking the album out later!

Great example of the YYZ pedal on a track here:

I ran a 9V daisy chain with several pedals for years with no issues. When I started doing a lot of practice with headphones, I noticed a lot of noise in my chain, so got a Cioks DC5. It did not solve my noise issues, that turned out to be my patch cables! Nowadays I have my pedals mostly sprawled over the floor of my music room with a 9V daisy chain and don't notice any noise issues with 7 pedals in the chain. Zoom/EHX digital pedals (TC and Mooer seem to be fine!) and some pedals with internal 9V-18V charge pumps seem to be the main culprit for noise in my experience and will require a separate power supply or just one with isolated outputs.

There are a few made for the job that fit perfectly under a Nano: Cioks DC5 / DC7 Truetone CS6 Strymon Ojai R30 Or just get a simple 9V daisy chain like a One-Spot. Sometimes you might find a pedal that introduces noise onto the chain, necessitating a power supply with isolated outputs, but 9 times out of 10 you'll be fine without!

Caramel BB1024X alert: https://www.facebook.com/groups/992440637527378/permalink/2101141106657320/?sale_post_id=2101141106657320

If you settled with your rig 12 years ago, what did you land upon? Modern amps and cabs certainly have advantages over weight, power handling, volume, clarity, etc. But a lot of them sound too clean and clinical for my liking. I like to take the hybrid route - modern lightweight and power, but with some of that 70s vibe by adding a touch of drive and using vintage voiced cabs.

Most apps have latency settings you can adjust, although some go lower than others. If you run Audiobus though, you can run any app inside it and control the latency through that. There are quite a few amp sims on iOS, Tonestack is a favourite, but actually the Ampeg amps in the free Garageband app sound amazing!

I really wanted one of the 2018 satin black models in a 5 string, but not many of them appeared on these shores as there were quite a few clearance bargains around from the 2017 range! They sound like a Thunderbird but not as muddy, from what I can gather, and typically weigh under 8lbs.

Orange Terror Bass gets my vote. Just remember the EQ is an old school passive tonestack that's scooped with the knobs at noon. Flat is with the bass and treble off and the mids maxed. Bit weird to get your head round but dad easy to find a great sound with minimal twiddling. There are also a ton of pedals you can use to get that sound out of any amp.

Boss TU-3S is always on and half the size: Combine that with a tiny mute switch. Hunt down, DIY, or get someone to make one in this size box (this JHS one is a mute switch but only momentary so you’d have to hold your foot on it):

I keep the gain fairly low around 9 o’clock. It’s a very dark sounding pedal so don’t be afraid to boost the treble further than you would normally on other pedals, mine’s at 3 o’clock. The switch in the up position sounds fatter, but the down position is also rather obese!

I tried those same Dunlop strings and found them too floppy for my liking. I had to adjust the setup quite a bit to get them playable! I have a 4-string set of NYXLs, just need to obtain a low B and I'll be trying those out next to see if I prefer them over the regular D'Addario nickels...

I'd run everything straight into the amp. Most pedals are designed to run at instrument level, some don't like the higher line level that FX loops run at. Running modulation and time based effects on the loop is only really beneficial when your preamp is providing your overdrive sound, which is more common on guitar than bass. Compression is generally best before EQ, otherwise you could for example boost the bass EQ and end up over-compressing. I'd go Comp -> Pre -> Chorus. Tuner can go at the end if you want a more thorough mute switch if your chorus is prone to making a wooshing noise when everything else is silent. Otherwise would be best to place it before the chorus so you don't have to deactivate it in order to tune up!

I'm not aware of anywhere you can do that over here. There was an FXPedalRental company run by a member on here, but they're no longer operating as far as I know (although @tonyxtiger might still have a lot of stock!). Do you know what you were looking to hire?

I'm guessing a 735 in passive mode will pretty much sound like a 435. Does the treble control turn into a tone control in passive mode? Still lusting after a black 735A to complement my black 1025X, but have other spending priorities in life right now. Although if I join a band again, I will surely need a backup, that will one day be my excuse!

Don't get me wrong, there will be amps out there that would sound glorious with the BB straight in. An Ampeg tube monster set to ear bleeding levels for example! But my Orange Terror doesn't have much tone shaping on offer, so I treat it like a power amp, and treat my preamp pedal as an extension of that. So in theory, I am plugged 'straight in' to my chosen preamp/poweramp combination! An active bass will not deliver what I'm after though, I want more than just a clean EQ. Bass sounds wrong to me without a bit of drive!

Are you just using the front pickup? If I want upper mid bite, I use the middle position. Have you done much experimentation with different amps/preamps? I ended up using pedals to tweak my tone, strings and pickups can only go so far., and keeping strings fresh is both expensive and time consuming. I don't like the sound of my BB straight into my amp, but combine it with the right preamp and it's the best bass I've heard! The Tech21 VTDI is a favourite for bringing out the upper mid bite, and if the strings are going dead, all I have to do is turn up the character control a bit and the strings sound new again. Therefore the pedal pays for itself if your strings last all year!

Much more than that though and they’re competing with the Helix HX Effects (£359) which probably offers a lot more than this. I’d expect it to be under £300, but then again we don’t know what ‘it’ is yet!

Bass Direct's website appears rather old school, like each page is edited manually, rather than having it linked to a database that keeps track of what's in stock. It's fairly understandable, it's either a big investment in technology or a lot of manual work to keep stock levels on the website up to date. I'd only trust stock levels on websites from bigger companies like Thomann or Andertons.