dannybuoy

Most of the built in cab models are for classic tweeterless cabs, so they might indeed sound overly dark if you're used to a tweetered cab. Options would be, find a new IR of a brighter cab, whack up the treble of the modelled amp, or use a LPF and EQ to create a curve that suits you instead of a full cab sim.

I wouldn’t buy it purely based on the fact Tech21 had a cunning plan to include a ‘Geezer’ preset (amongst other famous bassists) in the manual. It has no affiliation with Geezer and there are other pedals out there that could probably out-Geezer this one! The VTDI and YYZ are both great for a bit of Geezerage though, as is the Aguilar Agro!

That must be a mistake - the dUg is only £249!

If you're going ampless and can't find a good deal on a VT Bass anywhere, the next best thing may be the Behringer BDI21. Yes, it's a Behringer. But it's a clone of the Sansamp Bass Driver and is a favourite among many around these parts!

I love a good Muff. But it's a secondary effect, not one to use always on. Best to get primary light overdrive / dirty amp sound sorted first, unless your amp already delivers that!

And just to show how wildly opinions differ, and therefore why the only true path is to try these things out - I found the Ashdown to be one of the worst pedals I've ever had! I even bought it twice in case I got it wrong due to so many positive opinions!

Try a 50s/70s/70s one then! No hole in the body under the guard. I'm not sure when they added that!

If I had to choose only one pedal alone out of everything I've owned to tackle rock covers, it'd be my VT Bass DI. It's very versatile and will nail QOTSA 'No One Knows' or The Hives 'Hate To Say I Told You So'! You can find used examples of the older non-DI version well under the £100 mark. I also highly rate the Mojomojo, but only if you're after vintage tones. It puts out a big fat dark thud that sounds killer with flatwounds, but will leave you wanting more brightness for more modern rock.

Shedloads! The Fulltone isn't widely used these days, because it does drop a bit of low end and there's so much more choice out there for bass nowadays. It would help to know if you are after a smooth/mellow/squishy drive, or a tight/cutting/agressive one.

Dedicated DIs have a ground lift button though to help with noise in certain situations. I've no idea if you might one day find yourself needing such a button if you just go the cable adapter route though!

I'm late to this thread, but that demo vid showing various bass riffs sounded amazing!

Standard feature of a Jazz bass! If you've not noticed it before, it'll be the room you were in, studios and venues often have a lot more electromagnetic interference floating about then a typical home. You can get noiseless pickups which are usually split humbuckers like a mini Precision pickup crammed into a Jazz casing, but they sacrifice a bit of top end bite. Shielding the bass including the pickup cavities could help too.

It's now positioned after the gain/EQ and before the master, where it should be - there were a few complaints about the v1 DI being affected by the master. If you set your pedals to unity gain levels you'll have no issue there. And of course nobody ever uses the volume control on their bass!

Another difference is the master volume no longer affects the DI output level! Useful if you want to boost the stage volume without upsetting the sound man!

You could probably ditch the B7K and X7. The B7K sim is bang on, and you have all the crossover/compression/distortion/Eq capabilities to build an X7-ish effect too (I managed to get quite close to my DP-3X which is in a similar ballpark). Although you are limited to run fewer FX with the Stomp vs the rest of the range!

Oof! That board! What wood is that - roasted maple fingerboard as well as neck?

I’d guesstimate your amp could pull 800W / 240V = 3.33A, even more than that at peak, so your cable might have a bigger fuse than that perhaps?

The TC is good (shout if you want my TC Mini Corona 😉), although I settled on the Providence Anadime. Sounds a bit more '3D' and 'lush' for want of a better description, plus it has a HPF to apply the chorus to only the higher frequencies.

@tandark, you might need to boost the volume on the high chain if it's more gain you're after, since chopping off the lows results in less overall volume and less overall clipping. Maybe even put a Teemah drive in line before it hits the Sansamp.

Stolen from TB, what looks like an early protoype: (so yes, looks like they did have the 'logo chat' with Steve!)

Ah I see, I have to change the content type to ‘topics’ in order to get that drop down!

You get a different search box when the screen is wide enough. E.g. on my iPad in portrait mode, searching in a specific forum is impossible. But if I rotate to landscape (or just use my laptop!), I get a totally different search box with a ‘this forum’ option underneath.

I was about to offer lending you my AO, but instead I see you have taken the nuclear option! The AO amp has the growl/grunt (bass boost) and bite switches that were missing from the M900. A good thing as the M900 has the bass boost permanently on, which you don't really need when using a BB!

Have you downloaded iLok and registered the serial for the trial? Also try the standalone version. All in all - a ton of presets in this thing but many of them sound very similar. It does a very similar thing to the DP-3X, but I prefer the DP-3X and the wider variety of sounds I can get out of Helix Native to what's on offer here. It still sounds good though, particularly for modern djenty stuff!

I wonder if Tech21 had to say "Sorry Steve, but you can't have a West Ham logo on it'.