dannybuoy

Yamaha BB 5ers are 42mm wide at the nut, same as my US Standard 4-string P. My BB415 was pretty light too, my BB1025X, not so much.

If you don't need solo octave, the best cheap one I've used is the Digitech Bass Synth Wah. You used to be able to pick them up for as little as £25 but prices have gone up since they were discontinued!

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1468589640' post='3092000'] Cheers Dan! [/quote] Colour co-ordinated with the cab sim too!

I would insist they upgrade it to the stock pickup though!

The EQ, while limited, needs to be set correctly to get the best out of it. I understand it's closest to flat with the bass and treble all the way down and the Mus all the way up. I max my mids, bass at 9 o'clock and treble at 2 o'clock. Still, I nearly always put some kind of dirt pedal before it to get the sound I want!

An eq pedal before the pedal will do the trick - dial in a boost in the high mids to replicate the boost feaure, or a bass boost to replicate the grunt. That EQ boost would come through the clean side too though, when in the actual DG pedal that boost is strictly operating on the dirt side.

I've had a few US Standards, a Roadworn and a Classic 50s, and the Classic 50s was the best sounding bass of the lot. I only moved it on as the combination of a wide neck, curvy radius and sharp fingerboard edges made it uncomfortable for me to play.

I am disappointed that you used the word 'someone' instead of 'NE-1' in the thread title. A missed opportunity.

Well, I'm certainly hanging onto it a little longer, I got some awesome high gain sounds out of it running the Bass Muff in parallel with one of the Darkglass models! None of the stock presets float my boat and I was overwhelmed at first with the number settings, so I hadn't played with the app much before now.

That sounds good but I would have flipped those around so that the fuzz was scooped and the TS was all mids, as that's where they naturally lean!

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1468342059' post='3090310'] Rothko and Frost do quality custom decals. That is, if you haven't found them already. [/quote] Thanks, these look perfect! [quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1468344021' post='3090328'] Why not have a bash at making your own? [url="http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.-Inkjet-Water-Slide-Decal-Paper_151.htm"]http://www.craftycom...l-Paper_151.htm[/url] [/quote] Thanks for the link, but I think I'd rather go elsewhere that can provide proper metallic inks, also the Rothko and Frost ones state they use much thinner paper than traditional waterslide paper which should make it easier to blend in!

I've found a few potential suppliers on eBay but wondered if anyone on here was into making custom decals? Ideally a modern style US Fender logo but with Pretender Bass next to it. Got a little bitsa project on the way and would like an authentic-yet-obviously-fake looking logo on it!

I don't have the patience to program mine, expect to see it listed for sale soon! I'll give it another go later but I prefer the simplicity of analog separates.

You should be able to fix that with superglue and sandpaper! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTVScFJoe24

On a similar note I got this reply to a wanted ad that I just ignored: Hello How are you doing,Let me know if still interested in buying the above subject As soon as i hear from you i will email you some pictures and details Let me know your offer+ shipping ,Thanks and Hope to hear from you soon Greeting

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1468081559' post='3088510'] And pardon the vintage Boss tuner, I will get round to updating it at some point... [/quote] I have a Polytune Mini Noir that's going to be listed soon along with some other pedals!

I hear the Steve Harris sig has the chunkiest P neck. May be worth looking up sites like The Stratosphere that break Fenders up for parts!

My cabs are a pair of sealed tweeterless Ampeg SVT210AVs, so I wouldn't use it with those... but if I had a more modern full range cab I would look at banging the cab sim in the fx loop of my amp for sure!

I think I recall a review in BassGearMag online which reported the LMII pre was pretty much flat with knobs at noon and filters off anyway.

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1467893853' post='3087085'] Hm... [/quote] Ok, perhaps my definition of sight reading is being stretched a little. I can listen to a song to get a feel for the rhythm then play along by sight reading the tab. Rhythm is best left to the ears rather than the eyes if a recording is available.

[quote name='ivansc' timestamp='1467886032' post='3086954'] I suppose because I grew up in the pre-tab/Tab/TAB world, I have never seen the point in it. A lot harder to learn and apply than standard notation for me. I have to stop and think about which string I am supposed to be hitting and THEN which fret. Almost think writing out the letters for each note would be easier to follow quickly. Can you guys seriously sight read tab? [/quote] Sight reading tab is easy! I don't understand your argument at all, it's as if you're arguing for the wong side. The whole point of tab is that you don't have to think about which string and fret to go for. Musical notation is a lot harder to learn and apply as you have to go through several extra layers of thinking: Tab: - 8th fret on the A string, BAM! - I don't even care what note that was, I've already played it. Next! Music notation: - Ok I've worked out that dot means an F - Where are all the Fs? - Which one is nearest to my hand and will work best considering what notes come before and after? - Eeny meeny miny mo Granted tab is useless for conveying rhythm. But it's also very difficult to get right via traditional notation so I just listen to a recording and get it instantly without having to decode marks on a page. Of course in some musical situations, such as a bunch of musicians all needing to play a piece they've never heard, if they have the reading skills, notation is king. But if you're trying to learn Sex On Fire to play down the Dog and Duck, the vast majority find it much simpler to just listen to the track and look at the tab. No need for musical snobbery.

[quote name='Opticaleye' timestamp='1467886553' post='3086967'] I don't know about other Markbass models but going into the FX return on an LM2/3 doesn't bypass the preamp section so will not make much difference sadly. [/quote] There are some jumpers internally though to switch the loop between parallel and series mode - but suprised that it wouldn't be after the preamp though in either case.

If it's mainly for recording, there are some good cab sim plugins from Two Notes available!

Using mine (non-deluxe) as part of a headphone practice setup... it does great things to fuzz, you should try an ODB-3 into one!