dannybuoy

I suspected as much, if the master is pre fx-loop, it must also be pre-DI. Terrible design! Sounds great though.

Love mine too. The bite button, introduced on the DI model is perfect for a more mellow sound, e.g. P-Bass with flats... then turn it on for a more aggressive roundwound sound. It does have a few minor issues: - The clean portion of the blend control is very low volume compared to the Sansamp side. I thought I would be able to use it as a pure clean amp set to 0% blend, but it doesn't get loud enough set like this. - The level coming out of the FX send is affected by the master volume control. If you use the FX loop, turning up your master could distort or otherwise affect your effects! On every other amp I've used, it goes gain -> fx loop -> master volume, which is much more sensible. - I've not tested the DI yet but won't be surprised if it too is affected by the master volume. Pretty poor show if so, you don't want your PA volume affected if you decide to adjust your on-stage rig volume. Perhaps someone could chip in here?

You can connect quite a few USB audio interfaces to the iPad via a Lightning-to-USB cable, AKA camera connection kit. The Bighead also works as a USB audio interface, so I wondered if it would be possible to connect it and have ordered a cable off eBay to test. Has anyone tried this? I'll update with my results in case anybody else with one wants to give it a go! I currently use a Line6 Sonic Port but it doesn't have enough juice to drive my Beyer headphones loud enough so I use it in conjunction with the Bighead performing headphone amp duties. But if this cable works out I can eliminate the Sonic Port!

Almost, Low Frequency Oscillator. It makes things wobble. But I assumed our man was asking which pedal it was, not what an LFO is?

I would buy this if the price was right, always fancied building a stealth bass. I would of course have to fix the pickup hole and height out!

I forgot about the Deluxe Bass Big Muff in this pack, just tried it and it's decent! But in typical Positive Grid fashion, they screwed up at least one control, the LPF doesn't really do anything except go from on to off within the first 2% of the dial.

The Mutron on Tonestack is pretty good.

So there's a new bass expansion for BIAS FX. What a waste of £8! The bass envelope filter is supposed to be a Q-Tron. But it doesn't filter anything, just sounds the same as bypassed when I turn it on. Even worse than the Mutron which barely sweeps and has the direction control labelled the wrong way around. The octaver is glitch city and the rest aren't very good either.

Squier Classic Vibe all the way. 70s / Matt Freeman if you like maple, or 60s if you prefer rosewood (like myself)!

Both! Depending on the bass and/or the tune I'm playing, either one could be best for the job. If I had to choose one, it would be envelope filter.

The Truetone CS-7 looks the better of the two. If everything's 9V then it should run fine off a simple regular OneSpot... but digital pedals can add noise onto a daisy chain, so I would hit google to see if there are any noise issues with people running a G30 without isolated power.

On my Yamaha BB1025X, the bridge J pup is louder than the P, and combined together they sound glorious and full! Perhaps an Entwhistle neo pickup.. only £10 and from what I've heard, just about the loudest you can get? [url="http://www.entwistlepickups.com/pickup.php?puid=JBX"]http://www.entwistle...up.php?puid=JBX[/url] (EDIT: It appears the JBXN is the neo one and seems to no longer be made, not sure how the JBX compares) If not that, then the Seymour Duncan quarter pounder.

They have a fuzz, chorus and looper too it seems...

I'm building my first bitsa P-Bass at the moment Aidan, I am ok with electrics, adjusting the bridge and truss rod but that's about it. You're more than welcome to be let loose upon the nut and frets once I've completed it!

I thought the 410 had a horn and the 115 didn't? If so I would've thought the 115 would sound even muddier.

My Basic has a single MM pickup, is very light and sounds plenty warm (but it is wearing flats and plugged into an Orange Terror Bass!). If your pickup has the massive Delano / Musicman style pole pieces, perhaps a more traditional Precision pickup would help. But if you don't like the sound or the weight, perhaps it's time to move it on and just buy something else?

For octavers, you need to choose between analog and digital first and foremost. All the digital ones track prettying well, but most of them sound like a pure pitch shifted copy of your bass, and sometimes suffer from a noticeable delay between the wet and dry signal, as well as some artifacts that make them stick out as digital. Analog octavers usually track well as long as you stick to single notes and don't play too low. Their tones can vary from a smooth sine wave to a more synthy sounding square wave. But even the synthier sounding ones just sound like fat bass when put into a mix. For me it's analog all the way, they just sound fatter.

What kind of neck are you going for? I think they all have the vintage style truss rod access at the heel by the way, which is a bummer.

Does that amp have a headphone output? If the sound is fine through headphones, then at least you can narrow it down to the power section.

If increased signal quality is the most important thing to you then just install a preamp like a Creation Audio Redeemer, or run a short cable to a buffer box. You can probably buy guitar cables with a built in buffer at one end, never looked but would be surprised if nobody's ever made one before!

They did say it was analogue as guitarists weren't fans of using wireless gear that converted their signal to digital. I'm not sure how they can convert audio to an analogue light transmission and decode it losslessly, but it would certainly require power to do it. There was also a blue led lit on the jack plug. I don't think LEDs/LDRs would be able to respond quick enough to deal with signals in the 20kHz range?

Just watched it too.... So they want to convince people to replace their 'unreliable' copper cables with more expensive optical cables, that not only will probably require batteries to power them that could run out during a gig, but will probably be more fragile than the copper if trodden on. Not to mention signal buffering that might affect guitar tone especially with fuzz pedals. My Planet Waves cable I bought recently has a lifetime warranty. I could just buy two of those and be set for life and have cash to spare!

+1, mine came with LaBellas. Love flats on my P but they did not suit the T-Bird!

Squier Classic Vibe, Sire V7, Sandberg Electra TT4.