BassBod

For all the reasons given, I never really consider replying to adds - current conventions and interweb standards of conduct are really stacked against you. All of my work is through personal contact/recommendation, sometimes from fairly unlikely sources. Nothing gets you gigs like being seen - either playing or attending the sort of gigs you want to do.

looks like a Hugh Manson E bass?

Its also worth noting that steel cored strings for double bass were a new(ish) thing - most players were still using thick/soft/ fragile gut strings up to the late 50's / early 60's?. There is a huge difference between a gut E string and a steel one, and much less of a transition to a bass-guitar style flatwound as we know it from the 60's. I guess the Pyramid Gold or LaBella is the nearest to a custom shop re-issue....

I read somewhere they bought the VC Squier company originally because they needed strings for things like bass guitars they couldn't get....and the employees that didn't go to fender ended up as the GHS string company. But that could be utter b+=~@~, of course. I also read somewhere they used to wrap a bit of metal tape round a gut double bass string (just over the pickup) when they were designing the early Pbass, as they couldn't get a string to fit.

Compulsive Pedulla stripper....that's got to be a medical condition.

One point I should have been clearer on - the active boxes that have "spiked out" on me have been cheaper (but generally excellent) DI's running from line outputs (sometimes active basses as well) and on phantom power. I suspect its the cheaper designs running on phantom that causes the problem. I use active DIs for upright bass with absolutely no issues....but for amped up rocknroll I opt for a transformer...or a Sansamp!

My comments are based on my experiences - I often use active DI's (a Raven Labs, active with a transformer??). I have had problems with active DI's clipping and producing very harsh distortion on gigs, but only either with high output active basses or when driving from a line output on a preamp. The VT has enough output to drive a power amp, so I'd expect that to overload most active DI's if you weren't careful.

Brandoni/eko. I think they're called "camak" or something similar

Yes - that's the one. I forgot to say...the VT has a really high output (if you crank it) so I wouldn't use an active DI. When they run out of headroom the distortion is very unpleasant, but when a transformer/passive DI has had enough it will be much more forgiving (you might even like it!).

A good passive DI will do the trick and retain your sound..but don't get a cheapie! Its all about the quality of te transformer, apparantly. I use a Radial Pro1, you can get them used sometimes. A bit pricey but its the audio equivalent of a spare tyre. I've seen a modification on Talkbass that adds a DI out to the VT, so that may be worth looking at. Glad you like it!

I find my old ST220 sounds very good with more modern cabs. The old EA CXL1x10's are good, as is the 1x12. I also tried my modest (160w @8ohms?) ST220 into the Barefaced Compact (1x15) that was out on loan last year. It was very loud and full, a much bigger sound than you would imagine.

I know its unfashionable..but the SWR Stereo 800 is a really good power amp. There are a few issues - its 22lbs (not bad, really) the fan can be noisy and a problem in very "polite" situations and they get hot, so need an empty space above to cool. But the sound is excellent and they are tough. Don't be fooled by the puny looking 8ohm power rating (220w per side?) - they are proper old fashioned loud. I like the look of the new SWR digi power amp, but its not quite there for me - half rack size, 400w. Why not 1u full width, but more power? Most of the good preamps are still 19" format, so that's what you'll be carrying.

What Beedster said. His PJ fretless comes form the days of modded Pbasses, when J's were rarer and more expensive. Where people went wrong was not having a thick ebony board, (or a hard coating) and having pickups that were not well matched. The TF is an example of a well modded Pbass, as is the Sadowsky Metro I got last week. A lot of UK luthiers could put something great together with those specs. The Fender stock 70's version with only a P pickup and rosewood board does not do a Jaco.

Sold an amp to Duckyincarnate - good communication, met as arranged (bang on time!) a pleasure to do business with.

I've always rated Mansons very highly - the most "professional" set up I've seen in the music world. Also they have good stock, which covers the range of beginer to pro to stupidly expensive. That is a rare thing, and is combined with a sensible sales approach - they don't just push a brand because they stock it, you are free to look at a few options and even ask questions. Try that in some places... I don't generally go to music shops, but if I'm in Exeter I will usually find few mins to drop in and see whats new. (I could rant about high string prices, but that would lower the tone, wouldn't it?)

Good job on the strip! Go careful if you're routing - those things still scare me. For the re-fin have you consdered Rustins Plastic Coating? Self-curing in few hours and can be brushed on and flat sanded? I used the clear stuff on a few profects and was happiy with the results. It used to be made in clear, solid black or white. Worth a thought...