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BassBod

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. I've noticed that Pyramid Gold flats give a lower output - not a huge difference, but going from nickel rounds to flats, it was lower. I guess the metalic/magnetic composition is different. Great sound though, so I just turn the preamp gain up a bit.
  2. Marc bought my EA cabs today - easy transaction, great communication, arrived as arranged etc Pleasure to meet you, hope you enjoy using them
  3. The Jaco thing two amp thing - my understanding is that he used a delay (echo) on one but not the other - and the two speakers interacting acoustically produced a "natural" chorus type effect, much like you get by doubletracking the same part in a recording situation. I think I saw Bill Frisell doing a similar thing years ago - but he was manually bending the guitar neck as well - sounded great. A chorus effect, but more human than a pedal.
  4. Now sold and gone...thanks for the interest/comments
  5. Thanks for the comments, these really are nice cabs! It could be £200 for one, but honestly you've got to use both to really appreciate how good they are - a fantastic modular setup with any of the modern small amps. I'd much rather sell as a pair, if possible. I looked up new handles, and they'd be around £10 each for normal Ampeg style jobs (and no, that doesn't mean I'm not knocking £20 off the asking price )
  6. I've wondered how good these are - specs look great, except for the weight? Anyone got one yet??
  7. These may be already sold as I'm awaiting a reply...but here goes anyway. I've used these co-axial 1x10 cabs as my day to day gig cabs for at least 6 years now...might be 7 or 8, but I'm not counting. One was bought new via Overwater, the other was bought here used, but I can't tell you which is which. They are both in excellent condition. The co-ax tweeter makes them great cabs for acoustic guitars or keyboards, or small PA cabs. The tweeter level is adjustable at the back, and the connections are speakon or jack. The "truck liner" black finish is in very good condition on both. [attachment=59580:P1000461.JPG] [attachment=59579:P1000462.jpg] The official sizes are 13.5"H x 14.75"W x 12.5"D and they are rated 350w, 8 ohms. They weigh 34lbs each. One cab is great for small gigs, both can handle much bigger settings with fantastic clarity and authority. They are small and easy to move around, but not that light at 34lbs each. The handles are both wearing a bit now, and are cracked. These are "Ampeg" style and pretty easy to replace, as long as you aren't fussed about the black/red stitching and can live with black or brown. Price is £400 collected from Bristol/Bath area - could meet, up but PM and we'll talk about it?
  8. What a lot of interesting perspectives we have here. Kazoochat sounds like a winner. I've had a PJ Metro for a few months now...got it here in trade, hadn't really planned on it, hadn't sought one out, it looked more useful to me than what I traded for it. Its a very very nicely designed and made bass, in the Fender tradition but with some good updates that make it more adaptable than a passive bass. I love it, I use it a lot. The bass feels great, and I don't get sideways looks from other musicians or technicians because it looks exotic or expensive..or otherwise unfamiliar or threatening. It sounds a lot like a good Fender, but can be eq'd to sound more modern. But if I get too skint I'll possibly sell it on because I know it will sell quickly for a decent price. I'm a musician, not a collector (well, I do try...but the two seem incompatible, unfortunately) That's it..all over...move on....
  9. I've had to play in some loud settings and its not something I generally enjoy. Its necessary for some types of gigs and settings, but I know making an issue of it will never make any difference. Its habitual, and if people are used to always playing in a certain style/level that won't change. I once stopped a soundcheck (after the bass drum!) in a German ROCK club and just asked the guy why it had to start so F*&^%$ loud. He looked totally bemused and just replied..."but it is a ROCK Club?". I couldn't fault his logic. Put the earplugs back in. I agree that excessive volume kills the feel of a gig - things happen in slow motion, or have to be exaggerated to work at all, and most of the time you end up just playing your part, in your space, waiting to take your earplugs out and get off stage. Those are the gigs I want to be properly paid for. If you're not comfortable with it, move on....
  10. Before you spend money changing amp its worth using a preamp between the Fishman and GK. There are a few common ones (Fishman, LR Baggs Para DI, Sadowsky) or even just an active DI with a high input impedance. That can really improve the sound of some pickups (the Fishman BP100 particularly). Also, with a different outboard preamp you can avoid the GK's internal preamp by connecting to the effects return input, effectively ignoring the GK tone section and using the combo as a powered speaker. I do this a lot with mine, and I prefer the cleaner sound, although I do have to use the "boost" on the GK to get a good gain structure. I've got a nicer sounding Euphonic Audio set up, but I still use the GK combo a lot because it is so easy to carry and go - I happily trade sound quality for an easier life!
  11. Sounds good! Best give the oil a nice long time to dry. I over did a J bass body once, and it took about a week before the oil kept re-appearing in blotches...got there in the end. Thats the great thing about oil finishes - very forgiving and repairable later. Looking forward to seeing the final results...
  12. Best to email John East...but I think his Retro knobs are custom made, so chances are normal Fender style concentrics (usually to fit American CTS pots) won't work?
  13. I was also thinking a good preamp rather than combo. I can't remember the last time I miked an amp...must be years. There are great rack 1u preamps around. Expensive new, but affordable used because they aren't very portable once you put them in rack case. Alembic, SWR, Ampeg, Trace Vtype (or even GP11) Demeter, if you're not in a hurry you could pick up some great units. Also the non-bass specific stuff like Joe Meek, Groove Tubes, Raven Labs, Universal Audio.....and the people that make that really nice compressor.....
  14. Again - SWR 220 and a small modern cab (mesa ext?) would be a good choice, and pretty cheap. Also the red face Bassic 350 or whatever it was called - but some versions may have a fan?
  15. Now that sounds encouraging...time to think about my wish list and budget? I was only thinking FET as they seem to be described as the most "valve like" of the transistor options...but I have absolutely no idea if this is true! Mind you, I read it all on this interweb..so it must be true??
  16. Its a bit thicker and smellier than some - I guess its got more resins and driers mixed in. My fav is Liberon Tung Oil, diluted a bit with white spirit. Can't see the maple staying whitey for too long - just leave it out to dry for a few weeks before it goes in a case and it should mellow a bit?
  17. Question for those with a technical perspective - why does the "fender" tone stack (wasn't it RCA's to start with?) nearly always seem to go with valves? Is it just tube-based-marketing, or is there something irreplaceable about the combination of valve pre-amp stage and passive tone network? Could it be done with FETs and less emphasis on the distortion potential?
  18. I would go for a light grade overall sand - you've got to get rid of the deep scratches anyway, and some of the remaining colour will go with it. Then use coarse steel wool/white spirit, with plenty of time to dry and see what you've got. Most important thing is to keep it flat (sanding block) and not distort any contours too much. Its hard work, but you don't want to be seeing scratches when its time for oil.
  19. Happy to report the E string is still going strong a few days later, and sounds wonderful. Well, actually it sounds dull and plunky, just like it should. Still impressed with Pyramid's support on this one - just hope I can get a good 5 -10 years use before it goes snap!
  20. Looks interesting..but 120v and a hot valve in a small box is a bit scary for me, especially when the keyboard player spills his lager (as recently happened to my GK combo). I might follow up the FET idea...but I need a tame boffin.
  21. Not my sort of thing, but what a great bit of work that bass is! Have a bump on me....
  22. Thing is, I don't use an ounce of grit...or grind...I've even got low gain (5751) valves in it. Doom it is not. Its really the tone stack, clean gain boost, and if I'm greedy a DI output, I'm after. That I can put in my pocket.
  23. I'm a numpty when it comes to electricky stuff - but, in theory, could you build half an F2B in a small box, using a FET rather than a valve..with the same passive tone section..and power it from a 9v battery? I love the sound of my old F2B but hate carrying rack boxes to small quiet jazz gigs!
  24. I think its the pickups (single coils or close variants) and placement, and second the body "slant" shape. I've got a 5 string with active SD humbuckers - nice bass, but its not a Jazzzz.
  25. I've thought the same thing (Alembic F2B in a box...no valves?) and I'd suggest the Award JD10 guitar pedal (one was on sale here a week or two ago?) may be worth a try? I've not used one, but I've heard good guitar sounds from them. I did have a VT Bass and thought it was very good for general "amp sim" use. I only sold mine to fund other things in a cash crisis....that seems to be going on and on and on...
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