stevebasshead

I posted this in another thread, might be relevant here too: Have you considered going to a battery pack instead? I've ditched external power supplies and been using a single rechargeable battery to power all my effects, I use the Sanyo Eneloop Pedal Juicehttp://www.amazon.co...y/dp/B007BZAGW4 It's superb. I run 2x500ma multi effects units and a TC Polytune and it easily lasts 2 sets with 30-40% power leftover. And it means one less mains socket to hunt out for powering your pedals from and a less leads trailing about the stage.

Have you considered going to a battery pack instead? I've ditched external power supplies and been using a single rechargeable battery to power all my effects, I use the Sanyo Eneloop Pedal Juice http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sanyo-eneloop-Pedal-Juice-battery/dp/B007BZAGW4 It's superb. I run 2x500ma multi effects units and a TC Polytune and it easily lasts 2 sets with 30-40% power leftover. And it means one less mains socket to hunt out for powering your pedals from and a less leads trailing about the stage. Being battery powered it eliminates mains hum from entering the FX signal chain. There are two output sockets on it so you can run two daisy chains but I have to be honest, I don't know if it would eliminate nose introduced by some digital pedals, either on the same daisy chain or on a second one from the other output socket. Could be worth dropping Sanyo support an email to confirm that? But I can day I have no noise from either of my two Zoom digital multi FX units and they both run off the same single daisy chain from the battery. Edit to add: Another plus point is the Eneloop rechargeable technology means the battery holds its charge for years so no need to worry if you charge the battery and your next gig is weeks or even months away.

I'm not sure whether to think Why? or Why Not?

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1441625254' post='2860309'] I take a spare amp. Currently an Ashdown MiBass which lives under the front seat of the car. [/quote]Me too. Having had two amp failures at gigs over the years I started taking a spare amp. Currently I take a spare combo. Main rig is an OBT500 into a Tech Soundsystems 4x12 which sits near enough at ear level on top of the Ampeg BA115 combo that I used with my last band (PA supported). So 99% of the time now the Ampeg is a glorified amp stand but it's there as a spare if needs be as well as being a useful stand. My tuppence worth on the general discussion about what's appropriate to own/take to what gig etc. is that it's not an argument worth having at all. If we *were* to accept that people needed to justify what they used/owned (at either end of the cost scale) then logically someone would have to define how much was too much, or too little. Impossibly pointless really. No one is getting hurt, no one is being forced to use/spend their money against their will.

I think this says more about the lamentable state of spelling these days. Clearly they think you're a funktion band...

Gotta love the Aldi middle-aisle-of-mystery! Great bargains there

[quote name='KevB' timestamp='1438352527' post='2833843'] Used to play it in a band around 2004 or so for a couple of years. Quite enjoyed learning it, the middle section in particular. Never played it since. Always seemed to go down well, we had a singer who was a good guitarist and a lead guitarist who was even better. They had that dual gtr sound down to a tee. [/quote]Wow...change 2004 to 2001 and I could've written this exact same post

True indeed, the actiononhearing site only tests discrimination and because of that I don't think it's a complete enough test to be able to put out a message at the end saying in essence "don't worry, your hearing is fine" when clearly from my experience that would've been an incorrect assessment And may be for other people too.

<p>[quote name=&#39;Phil Starr&#39; timestamp=&#39;1436791622&#39; post=&#39;2820750&#39;]<br /> He was too <img alt=" " class="bbc_emoticon" src="http://basschat.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png" /><br /> <br /> More seriously it is easy to test your hearing on-line. All you need is a decent st of headphones. I do this about every six months, so far so good. Anyone in a band needs to do this regularly because you know sooner or later your hearing is going to be affected.<br /> <br /> Get your drummer to take the test, at least then you&#39;ll know what you are dealing with. It&#39;s not unreasonable to protect your hearing. At least you still can go to another band, if your hearing is destroyed you won&#39;t ever play again.<br /> <br /> Here&#39;s the test <a class="bbc_url" href="http://www.actiononhearingloss.org.uk/your-hearing/look-after-your-hearing/check-your-hearing/take-the-check.aspx" rel="nofollow external" title="External link">http://www.actiononh...-the-check.aspx</a><br /> <br /> It just took me five minutes to complete,<br /> <br /> If everything is muffled your guitarist is using the wrong ear defenders, get ones especially made for musicians and not the industrial protection ones.<br /> [/quote]<br /> [quote name=&#39;sarah thomas&#39; timestamp=&#39;1436793769&#39; post=&#39;2820775&#39;]<br /> Just tried the hearing test Phil Starr put a link to <a class="bbc_url" href="http://www.actiononhearingloss.org.uk/your-hearing/look-after-your-hearing/check-your-hearing/take-the-check.aspx" rel="nofollow external" title="External link">http://www.actiononh...-the-check.aspx</a> and thought my headphones were broken at first. The test checks one ear and then the other. Despite my idiocy, my hearing seems to be okay for my age.&nbsp;&nbsp;Thanks Phil.<br /> [/quote]</p> I love the idea of that test and I know they acknowledge its not a substitute for a proper test with an audiologist <b>but </b>I have to say I personally don't think it's even close. A bit of background first - in August 2011 after a particularly loud rehearsal I developed tinnitus. ;Even though I knew there was nothing that could be done about it I still went to the docs and was surprised to be referred to hospital for a hearing test under a consultant and an MRI scan. The scan showed nothing to worry about (but I was quite pleased at how thorough my doc was to use it to rule out anything else) and the consultant confirmed I have the classic Noise Induced Hearing Loss from loud music. It mostly affects how clearly I hear speech which I do struggle with sometimes. He couldn't say how much the tinnitus was masking those same frequencies accentuating the problem because of course they can't measure what is being generated inside my head. He offered me hearing aids which I declined as it's not that bad yet, but I will revisit if it ever became an issue. So that should highlight the approximate state of my hearing to give some context, because I took the test in the link today, entered my gender and birth year and completed the test on a decent pair of headphones at a comfortable volume as recommended (approximately at the volume I hear a conversation at). At the end it said 'Your Hearing Check result suggests that your hearing is in the normal range.' even though I have had the tests at hospital and been offered hearing aids and live with tinnitus. I figured the reason it asks for your birth year is so it can assess your results in the context of what your hearing is expected to be for your age, a fair assumption I think? So I took the test again and used the earliest year available as my birth year (2000) thinking it would surely now say my hearing isn't what you'd expect given my apparent age of 15. But I passed with flying colours again... I really shouldn't have been able to pass it even by telling it my real birth year let alone that of someone with much younger ears! I guess I'm saying two things here: If anyone is relying on the test to give an indication of the state of your hearing - be careful, bear in mind my experience of it above, don't take the test too seriously. Don't be an idiot like me - wear ear plugs from the start and don't assume you'll always get away with it just because your hearing hasn;t been damaged yet, one day it will!

"Are these strings made of...catgut?..."

[quote name='bonzodog' timestamp='1435680787' post='2811392'] ...We are only using a vocal PA so all that will be coming through the IEMs will be our two voices.. [/quote]Don't forget that the mics will still pick up some of the backline and drums which will be fed to your in ears too. The singer in my previous band had awful problems with that but you probably won't be as badly affected. He was a bit unusual in that even though his vocal was massive on stage via the PA he couldn't hear himself and reckoned when he got in ears he still felt drowned by what the mics picked up. And yet most other in-ears users manage just fine. Every band is different and some are louder or quieter on stage than others so your experience will vary, I just wanted to give you a little more expectation.

[quote name='karlfer' timestamp='1435671709' post='2811231'] Sadly accept???? That's not at all patronising is it. Jeez some people on here. EDIT, sorry, I missed a bit, who the Hell do you think you are? IN SOME OF OUR OPINIONS YES SHOULD NOT GO ON WITHOUT CHRIS. Some of us grew up marvelling at him and those memories will go with us to our end. [/quote] Your last sentence describes me, I am one of the 'some of us'. My original comments were general in nature but your edit in your reply above makes this somewhat personal. I won't derail the thread by responding here. I'll take this offline and pm you instead.

[quote name='Cosmo Valdemar' timestamp='1435667919' post='2811153'] We're not telling anybody to do anything, just expressing opinions. [/quote]Splitting hairs a bit but ok, in the very strictest sense you're right. In the slightly looser 'you know what I meant' sense I'm still of the opinion that negativity shouldn't be the first recourse. But sadly accept that there are people who take that route.

[quote name='jacko' timestamp='1435666976' post='2811131'] "Dunno who we think we are etc........" We're the people who pay their wages. [/quote]Not really. Because you're not under any obligation to, you know. I tried to convey that when I said about buying their music / seeing them live if you liked what they were doing, don't if you don't...

Dunno who we think we are, telling bands when they should stop. It's a very negative attitude and to me, the easy option rather than suggesting how best they could continue instead. But that's human nature I guess, sadly. Are we not better than that? Leave 'em to do what they do 'make music', buy it if you like it, go see 'em if you like 'em, don't if you don't. It's not like they're causing us any personal difficulty by doing so. As for Yes, Rick Wakeman did indeed say he could see a version of Yes continuing long after the current and previous members were dead, the way orchestras keep going. They hadn't (at the time he said it) had weak members, so, as long as they bring in people with appropriate talent and vision to keep making Yes music (however that is defined) it could happen. I doubt it will but in the meantime I for one am happy to see them and every other band that finds itself in this kind of situation carry on as they see fit. And if I don't enjoy it, so what? There's still their back catalogue to relish in.

C-E-A-D-G when I played it on 5er worked for me, seemed to make sense for keeping my fretting hand in one place for the verses.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1434408114' post='2799374'] I've had this as well... your TC Rebel heads are loud sounding amps but they aren't pushing much more RMS power than the MiBass/Mag etc.... so I cannae see a point in looking at other amps. Turn any compression off. Don't boost the low end on either your amp or bass. Make sure the EQ point on your low mid isn't too low either. Maybe you only need one cab? Try that. It will sound middy and a bit rubbish on its own but in the mix it should work well. It all depends of course if you have PA support for the bass or if you are providing the bass sound for the FOH. If you are taking a DI to the desk you can let the sound guy set the FOH sound and your amp is just a monitor for you. on the plus side if you only need one cab it solves your cab dilemma in your other thread [/quote] If she is through the PA and your amp is just a monitor for you you're even less likely to be able to push the amp hard enough to find that sweet spot. Another option to consider would be to sell the Barefaced cabs and buy something much *less* efficient so that you have to make your amp work harder.

I think the biggest issue here is the fact it was left on your door step. That's not delivered, that's abandoned! Def. stick a complaint in to the postal service/courier, they haven't fulfilled their contact. Actually, since the contract was between them and the seller you might need to ask the seller to complain too. As for the box, yes it's annoying and certainly not how I'd have packaged it either, but unless it was a rare pedal where the box was/would in future be seen as an asset I'd not worry about it myself.

Been double booked a few times and even triple booked once! One pub told us we got double booked because they kept two diaries, one upstairs and one downstairs. There are lots of good ones of course who know their job and are very band friendly, but there are some where I wonder how they manage to dress themselves in the morning...

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1433196608' post='2788905'] the speaker out would be to much for the di, would be at risk of breaking something, you'd have to get a di that has speaker in and out on it so it goes inbetween the head and cab, then you'll get the crunch from the terror. andy [/quote] I've done that with one of these http://www.mtraudio.com/user_guides_current_di2&3.htm which worked a treat. As the guide says, use the -40db attenuation when you feed it a speaker level input. I gigged many times with it and had no problems from either of our usual sound guys. They're about £55 from guitarguitar of it helps. Edited to add link http://m.guitarguitar.co.uk/Product/11072809403312

[quote name='KK Jale' timestamp='1432237942' post='2779669'] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Dansette's a good call actually as their record players did use that exact type of ICI-made salt-and-pepper grille cloth for a time. As did Marshall, around '63-'64. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I spent a bit of time on this and none of the usual non-famous suspects seem to fit - Elpico, Supertone, Grampian, Shaftesbury, Futurama, Geloso, Eko, etc etc. [/font][/color] [/quote]You forgot Ronco

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1431259084' post='2769287'] New speakers are going to cost you a minimum of £200, I'd say...plus wood etc, plus aggro.. Could you not buy a decent 410 with that and the money you'd get for the 115..? Not sure the cab will fit 4x12's in any sense, tbh [/quote]Yep, quite possibly and it's a route I'm also investigating, but still toying with the idea of converting the 1x15 as another option. [quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1431266247' post='2769401'] Hello stevebasshead, I've had a look at a few 10" options and there is no shortage of speakers to fit in as a 4x10. Some are pretty weak and others look really great with lots of power handling. Also don't be surprised by a difference in tonal balance. However, as jtuk says , you have to look at the cost. Four new speakers (in general) can cost from £200 to over £325. By the way, what speaker is fitted in the box at the moment? Balcro. [/quote]Thanks Balcro. The original 15" (a Celestion Powercell) was coming away from the surround when I got the cab. I couldn't find anyone to recone it and so I'd (embarrasingly) repaired it with superglue instead of something more compliant. It lasted fine but another area of the cone started to part company with the surround so I took the speaker out and replaced with a Celestion Truvox 1525 (300w 8ohm) at the suggestion of Blue Aran. [quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1431284542' post='2769641'] It's not just the area of the cone that counts, it's how far the cone moves. [/quote] True indeed [quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1431330651' post='2769937'] +1 to the suggestions above - the choice of drivers is all about their efficiency at turning Watts in into sound energy out, and at what frequencies they can do that job. The speaker area is only part of it. Everything from port design, internal cab volume, driver excursion & frequency response are all vitally important at different frequencies. A great full range driver may make a mediocre sub-woofer and a great sub driver will likely do poorly at anything else. To get an increase in output volume from the cab (from the same energy in) requires increasing it's efficiency. This can be done by replacing the driver with a similar driver that's more efficient or another arrangement of drivers that overall is more efficient. Depending on the specific details this may be challenging. A more achievable goal from my understanding of the situation at hand is to seek increased power handling. Increase the efficiency somewhat and increase the power handling by quite a lot (for example, replace a 250W RMS 15" driver with 3 200W RMS 12" drivers) and you should be on the train to loudersville. Only thing is, you need a surprising jump in actual sound energy to get a noticeable increase in volume. I can't explain fully it in simple terms but my understanding is that to get a doubling of perceived volume you need to put 10 times the sound energy out. Here's a link that could be useful: [url="http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-levelchange.htm"]http://www.sengpiela...levelchange.htm[/url] [/quote]I've a good understanding of speaker sensitivities and excursions and other tech stuff etc. etc. but that site was too much for my man brain lol!...But yes, I do understand the basic point you're making about the choices of speakers. It's pretty much why I started this thread, I was hoping someone would know of a "WinISD in reverse" to help me choose the appropriate speakers for the existing cab dimensions rather than designing a cab around a given speaker compliment. But it seems the only real way to do it is to do as Balcro suggested, measure my cab and feed that into WinISD and compare to speakers available on the market for ones that match closest. I've got a lead on a Marshall VBA400 and VBC412 going for a quite reasonable price...more than I want to pay for converting my cab but too tempting to not at least go and have a play...so for now I might put the conversion idea on hold until I've had a chance to go and see the beasts... So thanks all, for now, much appreciate the advice

I appreciate the idea, thanks, but on balance I'm aiming to keep it simple and relatively low cost. I suspect I'll have enough on my hands finding speakers that will work in my cab (a very shallow, traditional old Marshall design) and having to factor in crossovers might fry my man brain...

Hi Balcro, The baffle does indeed fit against battens and the baffle size within the battens is 63.5cm High (25") x 65cm Wide (25.5"). 4 x 10's will definitely fit but the within-batten area is just about enough for 12's. I think it will leave enough wood between the cutouts for structural strength. To answer your questions in more detail: 1. I want to move more air/achieve greater volume through a greater surface area of speaker (1x15 = 176 sq in -vs- 4x10 = 314 sq in -vs- 4x12 sq in) all things being equal in the speaker sensitivity stakes of course. I love my Marshall Super Bass, the sound I get from it is wonderful but the new band I'm in doesn't put bass through their PA (it distorts) and I'm running out of headroom on the Marshall. I'm looking to get more volume without driving the Marshall too much into distortion. I like a bit of grind but without PA support I'm running it too hard to get sufficient volume and having to sacrifice headroom and that sound doesn't work on all our songs. 2. 5.36 cu ft 3. As 1 Cheers, Steve.

I've got an old Marshall 1x15 cab (late 70's I think) and I'm toying with getting a new front baffle made up and fitting either 4x10's or (if I can squeeze them in) 4x12's. I know WinISD can be used to design a cab for the specs of a given speaker but is there any software that can do the reverse? As in, I know my cab's internal dimensions - how do I choose an appropriate set of drivers for it?