stevebasshead

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1448906307' post='2919085'] Cynical old beggar as I am, I'd be wondering who has most to gain from the 'cans are safer' line..? The can industry..? Maybe. I'm not going to be throwing away empty air tins any time soon, however. Too ecologist; a soft brush, an old toothbrush, a bit of meths for the stubborn filth and a Hoover. Old school..? You bet..! [/quote]I just give mine to me dear ol' mum, there's nothing she can't make sparkle again with a bit of vim and vinegar

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1448900941' post='2919010'] I've busted a whole speil of PC's, then, over the decades..! I wouldn't argue that a can of air won't do any good at all, but some of the innards I've seen need more of a scrubbing brush than a wee breeze..! A decent warning, of course, but I've personally never had an issue caused by static. Just lucky, I suppose. [/quote] Luck plays a part in most things I guess In my ignorant youth I connected my amp and cab with a guitar cable at hundreds of rehearsals, running that poor bugger of an amp at near max against mad loud drummer + 3 equally mad loud guitars and it never fried once. But as soon as I understood the risk I didn't do that any more. Thing is, going back to the hoover/static thing, it's what I was taught but googling it now and opinions are divided to say the least. I still won't risk it though. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1448901021' post='2919011'] Can someone then please explain why sucking air causes static, but blowing doesn't? [/quote] Explain? No in all honesty. But I can provide some conjecture that hoover manufacturers don't take into account whether the particular plastic their nozzles are made of are more or less prone to static. Or who knows, maybe what I was taught is out of date now and these days they do factor it in especially now that PC's are almost at "white goods" level and this is a likely use of hoovers. I would expect companies that manufacture compressed air cans for cleaning PCs to factor it in to their design and materials choices, so instinctively I trust those more than the multitude of hoover manufacturers and models. Right tools for the job and all that

How are you eq'ing the OBT500? A flat setting on this amp is treble and bass fully anti clockwise and mids fully clockwise. I'm just wondering if you're running the treble at 12 noon thinking that it's neither cutting or boosting whereas on this amp the 12 noon position is boosting treble

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1448894245' post='2918910'] ...How many folks open up their PC and give it a good old go with the vacuum cleaner, eh..? [/quote]None, I hope I was taught that there's a lot of static created around the hoover nozzle where the air rushes in so it's best/safest to blow dust away using a can of compressed air. Static and motherboards often disagree with each other...

[quote name='keving' timestamp='1448445387' post='2915413'] It's also possible that the problem is with your tuner. Many tuners allow you to change the reference frequency that you are tuning to. For us it should be A=440Hz. It could be that you have accidentally changed this setting without realising. [/quote]I've been guilty of that, it's so easy to do

My T-bass 5er fits nicely into the larger Hiscox STD-EBP case http://www.hiscoxcases.com/electric-guitar-cases.htm#spec Nice case, well made and sturdy.

[quote name='doogyrev' timestamp='1447715158' post='2909810'] Thanks again all. Very useful info here. My final query - Is it safe to use the two combos together seeing that I have both power cables plugged into an extension cable and running at the same time? [/quote] [quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1447691246' post='2909527'] Safe - as in you won't electrocute yourself? Yes it's fine... [/quote] As brensabre79 says, it's fine. You'll be using it as it's designed to be used so no worries. Tbh, the best advice (which applies to mono/single amp use too) is to use an RCD device on whatever socket you're drawing power from, especially given the state of some pub and rehearsal room electrics I've seen over the years. Going wireless would give you another layer of separation from the mains but if running in stereo you'll need an expensive setup or a compromise cheaper unit. But to confirm, the basic answer here is yes, running the amps the way you describe is safe and in the manner they were designed to be used in a Ric stereo configuration.

There are two types of Stereo TRS to two mono I'm afraid and visually there is no way to tell them apart as the difference is in the wiring inside. Sometimes shops/eBay/Amazon etc. sellers mislabel, sadly. One type combines the two stereo outputs so that a [b]combination [/b]of both channels (i.e. pickups in this application) is sent simultaneously to two separate mono devices (this sounds like the cable you have because you say you get sound from both amps even when you have only one pickup selected). The type you need takes only the left channel to one mono output and the right channel to the other. i.e. the bridge pickup goes only to one mono jack and the neck goes to the other. With that type of cable you will only hear sound from one amp at a time when you select one or the other pickup but when you select both you will hear both amps (although both will still only be getting sound from their respective pickup). Hope this helps

Sounds like you have the wrong kind of cable, from your description it is taking a stereo signal and sending both channels/pickups to both of the mono jacks i.e. combining the channels. The type of cable you need would take the signal from the tip of the stereo (bridge pickup) and send only that to one of the mono jacks, and the ring would carry the neck pickup signal to the other mono jack. I can't answer about ground lift I'm afraid.

If you have a suitable lead (or adaptor) try plugging a phone/ipod/mp3 player into your amp and playing that through the cab while turning the switch, Cymbals should be easiest thing to hear the tweeter working with. Or not if it's broke.

[quote name='anaxcrosswords' timestamp='1447415617' post='2907476'] ...I’m guessing it can only be that the allen screws can’t be tightened enough, so they constantly slacken off and drop the bridge... [/quote] Before spending on a new bridge I'd be wanting to prove to myself this is the actual fault. Simplest way I can think to check (and if it is, it'll provide a fix anyway) is to remove the grub/allen screw, place a piece of plumbers PTFE tape over the hole, nudge a little inside then refit the screw. The tape is so fine it'll not stop the screw from going in but grippy enough that it will prevent the screw from moving if indeed that is the issue. It's a trick that'll cost you pennies to try if you don't already have PTFE tape (any DIY store will carry it) and might save you needing to replace the bridge at all.

Tuning them in the first instance is a little odd, the advice Hipshot give is to tune to a slightly flat E, flick the lever a couple of times and [i]then[/i] check if it's in tune. Then flick the lever and proceed to tune-in the D setting. Once set, they stay good for the entire gig. Other than that I'd say go for it.

As others have said, you've nothing to lose by stating to the seller that the bass is faulty and you want your money back. Be firm and clear but polite. Follow up with eBay the very moment you don't think he'll refund you so that you've at least given him the opportunity to sort it out one-to-one first. In all likelihood the seller was unaware too but hopefully they'll do the decent thing without too much prompting. Although you did inspect the bass and bought it post-inspection you still have an expectation that all would be well with it [i]unless [/i]faults were declared to you. No one would expect you to remove the truss rod cover as part of that inspection (same goes for scratchplates, control covers etc.) What if it was a 2nd hand car, no one buys one without "looking round it" but you'd be miffed if something went wrong with the brakes and the seller said "you inspected it so you accepted it" when spotting the fault would've involved removing a wheel. You shouldn't have to disassemble something as part of an inspection.

[quote name='Che' timestamp='1447145386' post='2905144'] I bought my Deko JB-75 a couple of month ago and I'm still looking for what is wrong with it Its a fine bass and plays well, stays in tune, had very good set-up but does have shielding issues which I must address soon. Im not sure why these Dekos are sold as Deko because in all fairness they are as good as new! [/quote]Similar here, love mine and while it has one ding on the upper horn that would only make it a B Stock, rather than a 'not for playing' deko. The frets are slightly sharp but you don't notice when playing, only if you squeeze your hand and rub up and down the neck. Again, B Stock not deko to me. The only other issue I've found is the neck pickup lead is soldered onto the pot by only 1 strand, the rest have pulled away. Again I doubt this is the reason for deko, it works just fine and I doubt they remove the control plate as part of their QC checks so they wouldn't have picked up on it. I only noticed because I'm going to be rewiring it to a vaguely Ric-like stereo (stack knob plus stereo/mono switch where the tone pot would be) otherwise I'd have played it without noticing. Lovely bass, even for the full price. At deko price it's the bargain of the century.

Gigging: - Two Zoom B3's and TC Polytune (I only use the Polytune) Android gStrings app Knocking around the house: - Zoom 3000B MultiFX - Boss GT6B - Korg AX5B - Boss tuner (can't remember the model) - Tuner built into Ibanez acoustic bass So 9? Also three others no longer in my possession - Behringer rack tuner, Boss handheld thing that died years ago and a Zoom MultiFX that predated the 3000B so I've owned 12 overall. Gosh. I'd have said 3 or 4 until I sat and thought about it! Edited to add the behringer

Not cheap at £50 but takes 150kg/23 stone so [i]more[/i] than sturdy enough even for old school cabs and valve amps and handy for standing on to pin up backdrops etc. http://www.screwfix.com/p/square-hop-up-work-platform-aluminium/38093 It's overkill for the OP I guess but thought it worth mentioning here anyway. There's probably cheaper versions too.

But is fat the same as phat?...

Autoplay is a pain in the butt when sneak-browsing at work... We can't have our sound muted because our phone system runs through the corporate intranet / Lync so having some random Autoplay music suddenly blare out is a dead giveaway lol

In my solo work (in which I perform King Crimson covers in my bedroom under the name "21st Century Schizoid Man") all of my personalities clash Seriously, never ever been in a band that didn't have interpersonal issues at some point. Been in bands where it took a good few months before the first rumblings started but I find once they've started they never truly subside. Current band I've been with for 6 months (after almost 10 years with the previous one) and dare I say it...so far so good...

Fedward

Late to the party but TE T-Bass 5-er owner here... Picked it up 2nd hand from Electromusic in Doncaster in 2001 (+/- a year), traded in an Epiphone EB3 for it. Love love [i]love[/i] the neck, didn't get on with the Hyperactive pickups/electronics so (don't hate me ) I replaced them with a Seymour Duncam J at the neck and MM at the bridge + SD preamp and a 3 way selector switch. I tend to favour the neck J which sounds glorious and very Ric-like. Not too fussed about the MM but there's been a few songs it worked better on so it's nice to have. I'm playing mostly my Rics these days but I'll never sell the T-Bass.

William Shatner's "Has Been". For some reason I absolutely love this one but his others leave me every bit as cold as you'd expect.

Really enjoyed that!

KT Tumsfull

Flangelis