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brensabre79

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Everything posted by brensabre79

  1. brensabre79
    Sounds more like a microphonic pickup or earthing issue possibly being exacerbates by the fact you are not grounding through the strings. plug the bass in to the amp and knock on the body. If it comes through the amp you have a microphonic pickup.
  2. brensabre79
    Just to clarify... The DRs are a completely different kettle of fish to all the nylon tapewound strings that some people are comparing them to. The DRs have a coating similar to the way Elixir strings have a coating, it's just that they do them in lots of colours. They are roundwound strings with a very very thin coating on to protect the string without changing the sound (much). They will come off pretty easily whatever colour you get, as will Elixir to some extent. Nylon tapewound strings on the other hand sound more like flatwound stings and whatever brand you buy the nylon will not come off easily, but you will never get a roundwound string sound from them. no sir.
  3. brensabre79
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rickenbacker-bass-4001-/221236335978
  4. brensabre79
    [quote name='iconic' timestamp='1370015266' post='2095603'] I fancy a nice set of orange ones...do they hold up OK? [/quote] See above!
  5. brensabre79
    They are under £7 with free postage from some eBay stores and only come in a completely useless combination of gauges. You get what you pay for. I tried the DR ones once too, within 1 gig (yes one) the colour had flaked off leaving red on my hands, my bass and trapped in all the nooks and crannies, and silver strings. worse was it was only where I'd played so from the 6th fret to the end of the neck and from the pickup to the bridge was red, the rest was silver. So much for looking good. I might as well have bought a sharpie and coloured in some rotosounds.
  6. brensabre79
    Cheapest option is a Behringer BD DI then a Sansamp OR You could get a Zoom B3 which has an SVT emulator as well as some nifty compressor that'll get you that squashy tone you're after.
  7. brensabre79
    The LAST bit WAS my favourite... "We use 12 HUGE plastic polypropylene capacitors, that cost HUNDREDS OF POUND (for 12 HUGE capacitors) in each pair of GBP £3500 speaker. [u]There are also many other plastic polypropylene capacitors that cost pounds , rather than hundreds of pounds ![/u]" Why didn't they use those then? they would have saved HUNDREDS OF POUND
  8. brensabre79
    Yeah my mate has one, US model absolutely lovely to play, and very under-rated for some reason.
  9. brensabre79
    [quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1369308609' post='2087531'] So it's good for metal then. [/quote] Ys but I'm not sure it has enough Snap and Crackle for Pop
  10. brensabre79
    Hobbayne I think it's been fortified with iron, so you shouldn't be milking it
  11. brensabre79
    Still there, wow. I'm thinking I paid too much for mine
  12. brensabre79
    The Ampeg 8x10 was never designed very well and the reason they sounded so good is more by luck than judgement from what I've heard - that and usually being coupled to an Ampeg SVT which sound excellent whatever you plug them in to in my opinion. However I believe speakers have moved on. The Barefaced IS well designed, they all are, and like others have said, the dispersion, light weight and big, big sound from a small(ish) box should be pointing you in that direction. Plus, if you're used to a Super12, you'll probably prefer the 69'er to an Ampeg 8x10. And if you're worried about the size of your stack you can always pop your S12 on its side and use it as a stand for the 69'er
  13. brensabre79
    [quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1368629921' post='2079467'] mmmmmm, Sabre, uggllgglllgll! [/quote] ????
  14. brensabre79
    I think Wide/narrow generally refers to the nut width e.g. Precision = wide, Jazz = narrow Wheras thick/thin refers to the distance from the back of the neck to the front of the fingerboard. E.g. thick = baseball bat type profile, thin = more like a cricket bat (but round, and narrow) My Jazz is narrow and thick, my Sabre is wide and thin
  15. brensabre79
    Hey welcome to basschat. [color=#800000]I'll first of all say that Rickenbacker truss rods are NOT like normal truss rods. So [u]DO NOT follow any instructions you find for adjusting a truss rod on anything but a Rickenbacker bass[/u]. The process is different and if you don't follow, you could end up trashing your bass! not trying to scaremonger, but make sure you only follow instructions for adjusting the truss rod on a Rickenbacker. If you're not sure - go to a guitar tech who has worked on Rickenbackers![/color] So warning over, it sounds like the truss rod needs adjusting, and by quite alot, so go slowly and take care. You might find lighter strings help, but the 4003 should cope with anything but super-heavy gauge. 45-105 is standard. An action height of 10mm is still very high, what is the neck relief like? it should be less than 2mm, possibly even less than 1mm, depending on your style of course. Once you have got the neck relief right, you can then think about the action, you'll probably find you need to raise it a bit if you get the neck sorted.
  16. brensabre79
    Hey Hilti - welcome to basschat! NOt sure what the damage would be to be honest. Yes the battery will have shorted the preamp so this is probably junk. As for the rest the pickups and bridge would potentially be fine once they've dried out. The real area to worry about is the wood. If water has gotten in to the wood it will most likely warp it. It probably has gotten in to the body, but the neck may have escaped if the water didn't get this high. Put an old set of strings on it, you\ll probably have to set it up again, but see if its at least playable. If it is, then you could either run it passive (Bypass the preamp) or fit a new preamp (you can get an Artec one from about £25).
  17. brensabre79
    [quote name='throwoff' timestamp='1368321334' post='2075724'] You're probably right. Music store are massive. They would likely defend and law suit ferociously [/quote] not only that, if they lost they would set a precedent for everyone else to use and the floodgates would open with Ric copies being sold all over. I guess they can't take that risk. There are other places that sell Ric copies openly on their website too. Its part of the reason I object so much to Johnny & co. going after somebody selling a 40 year old bolt-on Hondo copy on eBay for £200.
  18. brensabre79
    If you're a novice at set ups I would definitely take this (one of the most skill based parts of a setup and a dying art) to a GOOD guitar tech / luthier. You can get a Tusq nut from Allparts, they are pretty good synthetic bone, lots of sizes available. As for fitting and even removing the old one, much will depend on your bass. You can get ones that are pre-grooved, but you will still need to file down the bottom to get the nut to fit. The trick is to get the string height just right. Slightly too high and the first couple of frets will be really hard work to play, slightly too low and you'll be buzzing like a bee! Like i said, go to a luthier, get it done properly - it's worth it.
  19. brensabre79
    My Sabre neck is somewhere between a J and a P in width, I always find it slightly harder work to play than my J basses. But the Sabre is just so rewarding and lovely to play on I always come back to it and think "why did I stop playing this?" then I remember when I pick up the Jazz and its just easy peasy.
  20. brensabre79
    Graham bought an amp from me. He paid extremely fast and was a pleasure to deal with. Buy/sell with confidence. Thanks Graham, a pleasure to do business with you. Bren
  21. brensabre79
    Sorry folks! Now sold.
  22. brensabre79
    Welcome to basschat Dave Karlfer, as your's is now gone I hope you won't object to this blatant plug... If anyone missed out on this fabulous amp, there's another one on here already! Link below
  23. brensabre79
    [size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][b]FOR SALE ONLY[/b][/font][/size] [size=2][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][b][size=3]- £350[/size][/b] posted in the UK by Interparcel (other courier available by request)[/font][/size] [size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 amp.[/font][/size] [size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Bought new in January 2012. It has been used exclusively by me since then. [/font][/size] [size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]The pre-amp valve has been changed to a drive tested Tube Amp Doctor [/font][/size][size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]12AX7A/ECC83 TAD Premium Selected valve. [/font][/size] [size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]There is one scratch on the top of the amp, caused by the fact that it has nearly always been transported in its GB case* - which I have shown in the picture. It does not affect the performance, and can probably be covered wit a black marker but I prefer to be honest about these things (case is included).[/font][/size] [size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]The amp has served me well apart from an initial problem with the stock valve, this was changed after talking with Genz Benz who recommended I change the faulty valve and said it would not affect the warranty to do so. Those of you on here who know me will know I treat my gear with the utmost care and respect[/font][/size][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=3].[/size][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=3]The blurb from Genz Benz about these amps is [url="http://www.genzbenz.com/?fa=detail&mid=2259&sid=610&cid=95"]here[/url], but if you have any questions please let me know.[/size][/font] [size=3][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]* I do also have a Genz Benz 2U rack mount bracket for the amp which I used for a short time and can offer this with the amp if desired - great for touring.[/font][/size] Thanks Bren Front:amp The case - with shoulder strap Back: Serial No. is there but it looks blank in the photo Close up of the scratch caused by the zip:
  24. brensabre79
    Yep 1 trip, easy with a Car Stereo style head in the gig bag, or its own shoulder bag if you get a Genz
  25. brensabre79
    What I did in exactly your position was buy a Genz Shuttle 6, I ran it for a year and it served me well, but while the valve preamp is excellent, I wanted a more all valve sound - probably more like the Marshall and Orange amps you dislike to be fair, so I have just bought a Carvin BX500 because I tired one out and it had that dark valvy sound. The Hartke HA3500 i had never sounded all that valvey, even when, like you I turned the pree all the way around to tube. But the tube pre did warm it up. I think the Genz was a close match to the Hartke in terms of sound, but I wanted something else. So I will be selling my Genz in the next week or two, but that's not why i'd recommend it. I'd recommend it for you because its a good amp and it produces similar results to the Hartke. The only thing it won't do is 2 ohms, but trust me you won't need it with a Super12T!!
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