icastle

[quote name='lemmywinks' timestamp='1391610114' post='2359161'] Recently bought one of these to replace the ailing pre in my SInsonido: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/mono-preamp-kit-n46fl"]http://www.maplin.co...reamp-kit-n46fl[/url] The preamp has 6 contacts - [b]In[/b] (& [b]Gnd[/b]), [b]Out[/b] (& [b]Gnd[/b]), [b]+[/b] (& [b]Gnd[/b]). I'm assuming the piezo wires go into the In & Gnd, the Jack is wired to Out & Gnd and the 9v battery is wired to the + & Gnd? [/quote] Yep spot on. [quote name='lemmywinks' timestamp='1391610114' post='2359161'] I know this will drain the battery so I will have to fit a switch jack (which arrived today) but I just wanted to test it first before complicating things further. Like I said I don't really know what I'm doing so wanted to check the pre actually works before adding anything else. Any help is appreciated, please explain things in simpleton terms (diagrams in crayon please) as any technical stuff will go right over my head. [/quote] When it comes to wiring the switch, the battery + needs to be connected permanently and the - side switched. [quote name='lemmywinks' timestamp='1391610114' post='2359161'] EDIT: Also one of the white block plastic capacitors was substituted with a brown ceramic one in the kit, I trust this is ok? [/quote] They probably just ran out of the poly ones and substituted them for the ceramic ones - won't make a huge difference in real terms as it's a simple circuit.

You can't assess battery condition accurately with a multimeter is the other problem. At the very least you need to measure the voltage whilst the battery is under load and even then, you have no idea what the threshold is on the device being powered. EDIT: Beaten to it by Flyfisher

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1379091288' post='2208625'] And a filet o' fish for my wife... [/quote] Seems like a reasonable trade.

Nah. Provided you're organised and know when you have to change you'll be able to do it in about 5 seconds while the singer is introducing the next song.

Well, according to GB the sizes are: H= 3.5" W= 13.5" D= 13" 3.5" high is 2U. So, your rack ears need to be 2U tall, approx 4" deep (guestimate based on fan position in photo) and the front faces need to be 2.75" to the bolt holes (so call it 3"). If you can't get ready made ones then just buy a cheap 2U blanking plate, cut it in half, bend at the appropriate point, drill the holes to match the coldserts on the side of the amp, trim off any excess side length (so you don't block the fan port) and enjoy.

Try here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/165906-sorted-mini-toggle-switches-in-black/page__view__findpost__p__1509234

The issue is with 'standards'. Whilst most browser manufacturers use the standards described\defined by W3C, Microsoft have a tendency to manipulate those standards slightly in order to support various features that their server portfolio uses. My understanding is that when our current version of the forum software was being designed and tested, IE10 was the highest version available to test against - IE11 was released afterwards. IE11, like it's predecessors, doesn't adhere strictly to the W3C standards that other browser manufacturers work to - but... in a different way to IE10. The IP Board developers are good, but they're not psychic. I believe that our next upgrade will sort out the IE11 issues and we can only hope that IE12 bears a passing resemblance to IE11. FWIW - I'm a long time Microsoft fan, and this browser fiddling is getting on my t*ts as well...

[quote name='seashell' timestamp='1391023408' post='2352425'] OK I've voted. Now give us something for the laydeez... [/quote] Absolutely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bI-uKniXpE

How about a piece of thin steel bent into a shallow 'U' shape. One leg of the 'U' sliding behind the scratchplate and the other leg having a thumbrest bolted onto it.

[quote name='99mustang' timestamp='1390861664' post='2350722'] Way ahead of you, nearly crapped myself when I found it, been through all the others and they're fine, phew!!! [/quote] Good man. I know it probably seemed obvious, but IMO it's always better to ask someone if they know how to suck eggs rather than watch them become a scorched omelette.

Ouch! A missing earth connection is quite serious and could be indicative of other wiring issues within the property. I'd seriously consider having a quick check of the other sockets in the house to make sure they are wired properly.

I bet you're using IE11 on Windows 7 or 8? It's a known bug. Either use a different browser or toggle your edit mode to basic (the little lightswitch logo on left hand side of the Reply window)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-50K-OHM-Linear-Dual-Taper-Rotary-Potentiometers-B50K-50KB-POT-ALPHA-/250956199544 To translate B50KΩ2P: B = Linear 50KΩ = the value (50KΩ) 2P = two pots

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1390644292' post='2347806'] Ah, so we have separate KOSMOS A-Sub and KOSMOS C-Psycho controls, now it all makes sense! [/quote] Don't you just love it when technological advances give you twice as many buttons to ignore... Seriously though, although I'm not in the market for a new amp at the moment, I'd definitely be interested in trying one of these out at some point.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1390677003' post='2348283'] The littler amp of the new Peaveys looks quite elegant really, with no flashy lights or knobs labelled "Kosmos", so I think they're aware that not everyone will love the one with the lights. [/quote] That KOSMOS thing has been around on Peavey kit for a while now - it's truly horrid. The lights can be any colour you like, or just switched off if you prefer - it's all user configurable.

Just occured to me, I had a similar fault on an HA3000 - turned out to be the nasty plastic speaker cable that came with the amp. I threw it away and replaced it and it worked fine afterwards - I still keep it as a backup\practice room amp.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1390584298' post='2347295'] I love the look of that Mini Mega! Nice to see Peavey bringing out lightweight gear at last! And the KOSMOS thing is a really nice addition. I think I've found a replacement for my Markbass F1 [/quote] KOSMOS has been around for a while - it's on my Tour750. I pressed that button once to see what it did. I'm sure someone must like it, but I've never pressed that button again.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1390584422' post='2347298'] OH MY GOD YOU CAN CHANGE THE COLOUR OF THE LIGHTS! *has a massive camp moment* [/quote] Yep - they're user definable.

I'm not a great Fender bass fan, but I found myself in the market for a Fender Jazz a couple of years ago, purely to keep my more 'traditional' punters happy. I tried all three variants side by side. The build quality and finish of all three I tried was reasonable (the MIJ was easily the best of the three). The sound of the MIM was a little weak and flat compared to the MIA and MIJ. So, £1000 extra or hoiking a couple of buttons on my amp up a few notches. I bought the MIM.

I played around with a bypass switch on one of my basses years ago. Wasn't worth the effort. There was no audible difference when switching to bypass when the tone control was set to full. From that practical exercise, I came to the conclusion that the amount of bleed through a cap when the pot is at max resistance is so small that it's really not worth worrying about.

I don't know anyone round there, but there are a couple of things you could try: Replace your speaker lead - Hartke amps do a 'self test' on startup and if there's anything wrong with your lead, it won't provide an output. Try connecting the Send and Return sockets together with a spare guitar lead - if there's a bad joint on either of those two sockets you won't get an output. If you're feeling adventurous, take the top cover off and check the fuses (unplug the amp first of course ). It's not unusual for there to be a fuse for the pre-amp section and a separate one for the output section. HTH

21% VAT in Holland so only £10 more involved than the UK VAT.

The blend pot works in such a way that, as you turn the control, that valve side increases as the solid state side decreases (and vice versa of course). If the pot contact is busted then one side of the blend isn't going to work. Take a careful look around the broken area and make sure nothing else (including the PCB) is broken, get that pot replaced and you've got a pretty fair chance of success.

Yep. When you're set to full treble none of the signal is passed through the capacitor.