
icastle
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Everything posted by icastle
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[quote name='clarkpegasus4001' timestamp='1332788805' post='1593175'] Sorry as this has probably been covered a lot before, but how do you post gear pix on threads on here? Thanks in advance...... [/quote] It's quite well hidden. If you look at the bottom of the window you usually type your replies into, you'll see a button labelled 'More Reply Options'. Click on that and scroll down and you'll find the 'Attach Files' button so you can browse to your image files and upload them to BC. HTH
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Some people like the Behringer stuff but I think it's pretty safe to say that the majority tend to keep it at arms length. Personally, I've found that their mixing desks are reasonable and their outboard processor range seems a little quirky but it's not half bad when you consider what you get for your £. I can't say the same for their amplification products though, like a lot of other people I just can't get enthusiastic enough about them to be unimpressed. I've actually used one of those Hartke wedge shaped bass combos (I don't recall which model though) a couple of times and, for the money, it's rather nice.
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[quote name='pburrows' timestamp='1332764588' post='1592678'] I guess the ultimate question is how good can a MIM be? Better/similar/worse than Squires etc? [/quote] This has been a frequent topic of discussion on BC. The overwhelming opinion seems to be that some MIMs can be as good as a MIA and far better than a Squier, but some can be real awful. This is generally considered to be due to wildly different levels of quality control within Fender. From my own experience, I have tried three MIM JBs and, if I were wearing a blindfold, I would swear that they were three totally different instruments - one felt rough, one sounded horrid and the third one sounded and felt like the MIA I was using to compare them against.
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[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1332715688' post='1592151'] Thanks for the replies, you're confirming my fears. The voltage explanation makes some sense even though he wont be using both basses at the same time. Keep posting other alternatives to the pedal. [/quote] It doesn't matter if he's actually using both the basses simultaneously or not, if both pre-amps are switched on then they'll both be supplying a voltage to the input of the amp, even though there may not be a signal present. If the power amp is a stereo one then he could perhaps feed one pre-amp into the LH channel and the other into the RH channel but that's just starting to get messy and complicated (and 'simple' always works best IME). Seriously, the AB pedal is the safest way forward and, as they're generally a passive device, it doesn't have to cost a fortune - you can get a perfectly adequate Behringer one for about £20 and a Boss one for around £30.
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I wouldn't go for the Y cable solution. The pre-amps are going to be able to see each other and will present the input on the power amplifier with twice the voltage that it's expecting to see. A-B switch every time for me.
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Well the Westone Thunders were pretty well made and came from the Matsumoku factory in Japan (where the 1980's Arias were made). Although the Westone name has been extinct since the early 90's they are still used and remain a collectable brand by enthusiasts. I first met the brand in the early 80's when I was working in a music shop and they quite literally wiped out all the other brands within the same price range. As for whether lined or unlined is the best bet really depends on the player. If you are having to look at the fingerboard on a fretted bass every couple of notes then you'll probably benefit from a lined fingerboard. If you only glance occasionally then you probably don't need them. I bought a lined JB but, within a day or two, had no need for the fret markers. Unlined necks usually have edge dots, so you're not left completely high and dry.
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[quote name='Pete Academy' timestamp='1332687969' post='1591624'] It just seems that the bass sound problems can be solved easily by just having bodies fill the room. Not always the case. [/quote] It really depends on whether the venue has any restrictions about packing the underside of the stage with bodies. No matter how many times I've asked that question over the years, there always seems to be a reluctance to let me try it...
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[quote name='Doddy' timestamp='1332688959' post='1591636'] Try the Auralex Gramma Pad,Pete.They work great on boomy stages. [/quote] +1 I've gone from spending an inordinate amount of time fiddling with EQ settings and getting a half usable sound to just dumping my cabs onto a Gramma Pad and getting on with playing.
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[quote name='CXIII' timestamp='1332693506' post='1591719'] Out of interest can anyone shed light on how the stock 'ESP' pickups sound? [/quote] Edging the active pre-amp past the centre detents you get a nice healthy growl, pull them back and you get a slightly flattened bottom end, but not unpleasantly so. Overall, not quite as warm as the Bartolini's in my Ibby but not so bad that I'd be tempted to change them.
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[quote name='Gust0o' timestamp='1332687289' post='1591615'] Yeah, I'm still looking for a Paisley Fender in [i]just the right pink [/i] [/quote] Cerise dear boy, cerise...
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It'll work fine electronically but you might find that the 8Ω cab is drowned out by the 4Ω one.
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[quote name='Gust0o' timestamp='1332682371' post='1591525'] That LTD of yours is made of some super-dense dark matter. [/quote] I feel a thread about 'does your bass reflect your personality?' coming on...
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[quote name='Townes1992' timestamp='1332675892' post='1591408'] Ahhh ok, my current bass is a little heavy as it is! I like that its well built though....always convincing haha [/quote] I'm talking about 15lb where people class anything over 8.5lb as being heavy... but then they're not tough and manly like me...
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I have a B206. On the '+' side, the pickups have a good healthy growl and the build quality is immaculate. On the '-' side, I find the string spacing a little wide and it's far too heavy to play for more than an hour.
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Looking at that I think I'd be inclined to make a thin metal plate the same shape as the side facing us (and maybe one for the other side(s) before the same happens again?). A thin layer of evostick to fix the plastic to the plate and then rely on the existing screw holes to hold it all together. As for the metal - I'd go for an old tin can, tough, thin and quite easy to cut - but mind your fingers.
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I would guess that the basic circuit design is the same between the 'with' and 'without' trimpot versions of the tonepump. A 50KΩ pot should be fine for a volume control. The worst thing that 'could' happen by using a wrong value pot is that the volume control might not kill off all of the signal when it's fully backed off.
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[quote name='whizzzy' timestamp='1332512527' post='1589425'] Repair seems best option and I hear what you say about none of the major players selling this type of product but looking at the video it all looks a bit of a faff (not that it worries me) so this may be one reason why it hasn't caught on? [/quote] Could be that it works just fine but I just can't see 'how'. If it has a different level of flexibility to the plastic parts that it's sticking together (which is near enough guaranteed) then I don't see how it can work...
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I'm forever getting Lee Abbott and Danny Thompson mixed up although I'm a big fan of both. I saw him with Magna Carta many years ago and he just typified my image of what a bass player should be - immaculate timing and an impeccable sense of what 'belonged' within a song. A sad loss.
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It looks and sounds suspiciously like a bog standard two part resin based product to me. The catch with moulded plastics is that they are pretty strong but a break will nearly always re-occur at the point where it has previously broken. I'm kinda of the opinion that if this product was an absolute miracle then the major players would have been selling it by now. The repair method, or the decision to replace, really depends on the part that has broken - can you give us a clue what the part looks like?
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Just looks like a JB with a BadAss bridge and possibly a slightly tweaked neck to me. You have a choice of black or sunburst.
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Is there a button labelled 'earth lift' on the back of the amp? If so, switch it to the opposite of what it's set to at the moment.
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[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1332452061' post='1588701'] Combined with the 'this is why we can not accept any returns' bullsh!t, I would have steered WELL clear. [/quote] In fairness, it's described as having 'minor marks and scratches' and the seller says he won't accept a return for those stated reasons. The fact that the item was actually described as a bass and turned out to be a guitar instead doesn't come under the 'minor marks and scratches' exclusion.
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[quote name='convair' timestamp='1332451083' post='1588680'] Whats left!?!? [/quote] Well Jazz basses (although I'm not a great fan). I find the Ibby SR body shape quite comfortable and the necks lovely and slim (therefore closer string spacing), so anything like that really.
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Oh no! I know I shouldn't laugh but I'm really struggling not to as I picture the look on your face when you discovered that. That's gonna need some serious work to make it into a bass mate
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Another electronics numptie question - buying an amp from EU
icastle replied to Clarky's topic in Amps and Cabs
[quote name='Ed_S' timestamp='1332401096' post='1587660'] This is what's screened onto the back of every Tech21 mains powered unit I've ever seen, btw.. [/quote] It'd be interesting to see what the physical differences are between the 230V and 240V models actually are. Certainly something funny going on because near enough every other manufacturer would have just gone for the 240V and 117V options.