Kev

Welcome to a new world of bass First tip; Less is more.

Well, that is something of a design flaw! Contact the UK dealer, they will probably sort you one without charge if they are nice enough?

So, who's at Birmingham on Thursday?

[quote name='goonieman' timestamp='1434791989' post='2802819'] yeah, I know! haha... what an 'interesting perspective'. I found a different one on ebay and purchased it - a mid-90s bubinga corvette as well. Looking forward to hearing that distinctive growl! I don't mind the weight - I think its part of the sacrifice. [/quote] Nice decision Pictures when it arrives please!

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1434752751' post='2802650'] youd be better off with 17 big muffs in a row =P [/quote] At last count, that bloke from Muse had 88 muffs, going into 88 different heads.

Ah, this one is it? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WARWICK-Corvette-Proline-GUITAR-Made-in-Japan-1995-F026276-Soft-Case-/231552172300?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e995c10c Crazy he thinks it was made in Japan A little expensive, make an offer Looks a nice example though, and it will be a cracking player with a nice slim neck with MEC 2 band EQ.

[quote name='goonieman' timestamp='1434751669' post='2802640'] aha! thanks guys - I had a feeling I was on the right track. These ones have the JAN I nut... what do you think of it? Are these early 'transition' prolines considered pretty good? The way I understand it is that Warwick 'golden age' was between '90 and 2000. How much should a bubinga corvette go for nowadays? cheers [/quote] I'm sure its a great bass, the wenge necks are great. Does this one have the volute (i.e. the bulge at the back of the neck behind the nut where the headstock joins?) Costs vary like crazy, anywhere between £300 and £500 depending on condition and your onto a decent deal.

Yes, not to be confused with the later Proline Corvettes, which were firstly Ash and then Flamed Maple bodies, as opposed to Bubinga

There has never been a Warwick Corvette made in Japan The Proline series were made in Germany, and only Germany. The serial number will confirm all!

A few of the new squeeze....and of course the garden table.

Neck shape cut out and inlay fitted

Gorgeous I love the sapwood in the preamp area, seen the back yet?

So tempting to replace my B3K with one, but two B7K would be too much, surely?!! Help!! Bass Direct?

Blends are funny things, totally depends on the pedal. Sometimes they work really well (Darkglass pedals, IMO of course), other times they are a disaster. The MXR Bass Fuzz Deluxe just doesn't work, thin fuzz tone on top of clean signal, yuk yuk yuk.

I should never have sold my TFR! Great video, so much more useful than 99% of demo videos out there.

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1434363007' post='2798853'] I had a ditto and changed to the RC-1 as I wanted to be able to run my looper on batteries. Can't say I've noticed a difference in sound quality and the operation is identical. I did have to take two dittos back as they developed a fault with the foot switch but that's probably a moot point, just got a couple of bad units. [/quote] I think you may have made my decision for me if there is not noticeable difference and you have owned both to testify, the footswitch and led advantages are enough for me to buy. Thanks for all of your input, folks!

[quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1434319948' post='2798670'] Exactly. I can get a close approximation to just about any tone from my ACG imaginable but I can't even come close to the sound of my Warwick. Shame I think I'm going to have to sell it soon. [/quote] You'll regret it!

Roundwounds for a Ric [i]every[/i] time for me!

[quote name='Jecklin' timestamp='1434311078' post='2798603'] I started a thread similar to this a few months back. I was all set to get the ditto, but decided on the boss because of the longer memory and becuase it can run on a battery. The latter may be a non issue for you, but I will be playing at events where there is no power so it was a bit of a deal breaker. I like everything about the boss, however as long as you won't need loops longer than five minutes and have no need for batteries you'll be happy with either. Oh and the flashing dial saying how far a loop you are is useless. It is a very clear indicator of what mode you are in (record, overdub and straight playback and also and indicator of whether the loop ends after one playback - a brilliant feature BTW) but no real use in saying how far through you are, but as with all things like this Ymmv [/quote] Interesting feedback. Out of interest, why do you find the loop progress dial useless? It seems like it works well enough in the video demo's?