barkin

[quote name='machinehead' timestamp='1348694472' post='1817146'] I'll add my tuppence worth from direct experience. I owned a Markbass 121p combo (basically the same as NY121) and the Midget would kill it totally in every way, if that helps. I own a Midget and a Compact. For a single cab for rock, I'd say the Compact is better. Reason - it's deeper and bigger sounding but that's just my preference. The Midget is a loud and barky cab too but needs lots of power to drive it. Frank. [/quote] [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1348694794' post='1817156'] How much power are we talking? Would 250W be enough for an 8 ohm cab? [/quote] I've done pub gigs with a BF Compact and a Hartke HA2500 - 175W into 8Ohms. Loud enough ? Hell yes !

Almost everything I've bought from here has been done using a bank transfer - I don't do Paypal... I exchange a few PM's with the seller - maybe ask for a mobile number, and give 'em a call if it's easier or makes you feel better. I usually find that after a bit of dialogue, and looking up any feedback, I've a good feeling as to whether or not I want to go ahead with the transaction. If I'm happy with everything, I ping the money to the sellers bank account. Once the money's arrived, the seller ships the goods. Good comms throughout goes a long way towards a hassle-free transaction. There's always going to be an element of trust involved. Whether or not you trust the other party to uphold their end of the deal, is a judgment that only you can make. To date, I've not had a Basschat deal go bad.

[quote name='51m0n' timestamp='1345588593' post='1779322'] The Hartke LH500 is a very nice amp for the really rather small outlay, but Plux's is a tad on the harsh side (too brite) and they can be a tad noisey. It may be that swapping the tube out would calm that down a bit - anyone here tried swapping out an LH500 tube to mellow it out a little? [/quote] I agree with the "nice amp...small outlay" (Thomann are knocking 'em out for 299 Euro's at the mo', which seems a crazy good deal to me) Mine's also a tad noisy but I only notice it when I'm noodling at home, and only then at volumes that'd take the cats fur off ! (It's b*&&$% loud too...) I never notice it in a live band situation, and I can't say I find it harsh/brite either - horses for courses, eh ? I am, though, thinking of swapping the stock (Sovtek) valve for something else, but more out of interest than a need to change its sound - just curious as to what tonal changes could (possibly) be had. Trouble is, I'm not at all sure what to swap it for. Should I just try a different 12AX7 (if so, any recommendations?) or can I drop in something else - an ECC83? ECC803? And what about 12AU7/12AT7's - would they work, or would I risk damaging the amp? As you can probably tell, I know next to nothing about these valve things...and this should probably be a new thread.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1347871553' post='1805855'] I`ve generally found that 210 & 115 are great together, each seeming to bring to the deal what the other lacks, but with 410 & 115, the 115 seems to get lost somewhat. [/quote] Mmm...I had a MAG115 and a MAG210. I liked them both on their own, but found that with both together the 210 got rather drowned out by the 115. I considered selling the 210 and going with 2 x 15's. Then I thought I might shift the 115 and get another 210. In the end, I sold them both and got a Barefaced Compact

Me too I'm in roughly the same area as James, and quite fancied a crack at this - until I read the BV bit...

Don't do it.

Well, that's a bit crap! Image seems to have shrunk when I attached it... [url="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hartke-HA2500-Bass-Guitar-Amplifier-Head-10-Band-Graphic-EQ-HA-2500-/280652262707"]http://www.ebay.com/...0-/280652262707[/url] appears to show it the other way about to the image above ! So that's one (the blurry one above - sorry) showing in/pre, while the one on ebay is in/post. So what's what on the unmarked ones is "suck it and see", I guess.

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1347626719' post='1803243'] just in case anyone was wondering about the unlabelled buttons on the back of the hartke heads [...] The lower button is a Pre/Post switch so you can choose to send your signal with or without EQ to a mixer. Pushing the switch in sends a post-EQ signal out. [/quote] I think the pre/post is t'other way around - with the button pushed in, it's pre.

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1347307833' post='1799217'] AC30? still too much for a rehearsal room [/quote] +1 As somebody else said recently elsewhere on this forum, an AC30 can kill small animals at 50 paces ! You simply don't need that sort of volume in a rehearsal room...not to mention the initial outlay and ongoing costs, which would be better spent elsewhere...IMO. I also like to see a couple of comfy chairs, and a small desk to sit at and write stuff down. P'raps I'm just getting old...

That's a pain Have you tried the effects loop send/return? Might give a clue as to if it's the pre or power stage? Also, IIRC those sockets have some kind of switching arrangement - might be worth giving 'em a dose of switch cleaner and giving them the beans with a jack plug.

We use either local rehearsal rooms, or a village hall. The Village Hall costs us a tenner for as long as we want it (provided it's not booked for anything else - we fit in around whatever else is going on, otherwise we'd have to pay the regular hire rates) It's clean, has decent toilets and a usable kitchen should we want a brew. Downside is that the acoustics aren't great, and we have to lug our own PA. For those reasons, we tend to go low volume and just use a small powered mixer and a wedge monitor for vocals. The rehearsal rooms are £10/hour in 2 hour slots. For that, the standard offering is: an adequate sized room with good acoustics, a half-decent PA with as many mics/stands as we need. a "nothing special but perfectly usable" basic drum kit - drummer brings his own breakables. a bass rig of some sort - they seem to have an assortment of Ashdown MAG & ABM, Laney, Hartke etc heads and cabs, but they seem to get swapped around a lot so it's pot luck as to what's in a particular room at the time. a guitar amp of some sort - we usually ask for 2, and they always oblige. But why they feel the need to provide mahoosive 4x12 Marshall/Orange stacks in a small rehearsal room I don't know... It's easy to get to for everybody, easy free parking, and perfectly usable gear so we don't need to hump loads of our own stuff around. The toilets and rest areas aren't very appealing, and there's always heaps of junk lying around everywhere.

There's currently a couple of MIM P's for sale here, a MIM J, a Tanglewater Classic J, a Bass Collection, etc etc. All great basses within your budget or thereabouts. Depends what you're after...

[quote name='daz' timestamp='1347136710' post='1797394'] Peavey is fine, no nonsense and solid. However if I had 300/400 to spend on an amp (and I did) I'd buy a Harke LH 500 (I also did, although this time last year it was priced at 250 !) (sorry the pound sign on my keyboard has disappeared ?) [/quote] Thomann are selling 'em for less than that today! [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/hartke_lh500.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...artke_lh500.htm[/url] The sound won't be to everybodys taste, but it's an awful lot of amp for the money IMO, and would still leave enough from a 400 quid budget to get a perfectly gigable cab to go with it. As for Peavey gear - if it sounds good. go for it. Chances are, it'll outlive you...

Did you manage to crack this ? Just curious, in case my HA2500 misbehaves in the future...

[quote name='SimonH' timestamp='1346863837' post='1794205'] Hi - got a G-K 210T (2 x 10 cab) which has a pair of 150 watt, 8 ohm 10in cones in it that... 1) aren't original... can't remember what they're called but I think they were budget, and 2) are no longer of this earth after I re-wired them from 4 ohm total to 8 ohm, then blew them up. Doh. [/quote] 2 x 8 Ohm drivers in series = 16 Ohm 2 x 8 Ohm wired in parallel = 4 Ohm How'd you manage to rewire for 8 Ohm ? Just curious...

Another Hartke fan here - got a LH500 and an HA2500, and they're both great. On a sidenote - I've just been cruising around Thomann's website, and see they're doing the LH500 for 236 quid. Seems like an awful lot of clean, warm and very loud tubey loveliness, for not a lot of money...

The compact is almost exactly the same size as an Ashdown 2x10 that I've just sold. The 'one in, one out' just happened to take place while she's in Italy for a few days...

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1346317664' post='1787739'] Anyone tell me if my Reidmar would power a compact sufficiently? looking at the BF website they were quoting a min of 250W at 8ohm and the reidmar only puts out 250 at 4 ohm [/quote] I used my newly aquired Compact at a pub gig last weekend, with my Hartke HA2500 - 180W at 8Ohms. (I'd loaned my LH500 to a mate with an amp emergency - his gig was bigger than mine...) The volume and clarity of the Compact meant that the little HA wasn't being pushed anywhere near its max, and the end result sounded really rather nice.

[quote name='BRANCINI' timestamp='1346099350' post='1785336'] Thats how it was yonks ago when I worked on dial up CCTV kit, Old phones still work so I cant see it being any different now, Power, high ring voltage plus speech both ways on two very very long thin wires, Pretty clever cosidering it was designed at least 150 years ago. [/quote] BT specs are pretty much all available online, as Suppliers Information Notes (SINs) at http://www1.btwebworld.com/sinet/ From memory, the relevant one is SIN351, which specifies 40-100V AC. The only difference between now and as far back as I can remember, is that the ringing is no longer generated by the old electromechanical "ringing machines". I'm sure Loz feels better for knowing that

I've got an older 100W Ashdown Five Fifteen and, like Loz says, mine wouldn't work for me in a band situation - but I guess that rather depends what sort of band it is. It sounds OK at low-ish volume, but soon runs out of steam if I start cranking it. (That's fine though for what I want it for. I bought it cheap from here just as something to have kicking around the house for practicing with) I did have a play with a 1x15 Hartke combo a while back - one of the "kickback" ones, possibly an A100 but I'm not 100% sure - which I thought was fantastic. Retained its punch at higher volume than my Ashdown...still not sure I'd want to gig with it though.

As far back as I can remember, ringing in the UK has always been 75V AC @25Hz

Whatever next? 'we don't sell Guiness Sir - the landlord doesn't like it. Pint of Drambuie?'