Ou7shined

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1326210631' post='1493846'] You can remove the head from all the combos, but you need to get a top plate for the head. The heads used in the combo s are LM II/IIIs. Top plate can easily be made with a thin sheet of metal cut to size & 4 holes drilled in it (where the bolts go through, of course). [/quote] This is what I understood to be the case too but I was keeping out of it as I wasn't 100%.

[quote name='chaypup' timestamp='1326204736' post='1493738'] Beautiful headstock on this Thunder...... [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170761558147&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123"]http://www.ebay.co.u...ME:B:SS:GB:1123[/url] [/quote] I actually Lolled.

Probably... but how are we to know if we are fooling ourselves. I've tried many of the oft spanked over flatwounds on here and yes they are good and all have their merits and so on but not being one for running with the pack I eventually found that I actually preferred a slightly cheaper range and I don't care that they aren't expensive, it's the sound and feel that are the most important thing.

Maplin (for example) have various types of cleaner which claim to be for various specific purposes but as far I can tell they are all pretty much the same thing. I think if anything contact cleaner leaves no residue but switch cleaner maybe lubricates slightly. I've used both with equal results though. Np.

Just checking, you've removed the knob and the ... ahem... shaft is still stiff? Sometimes the bottom of the knob can rub up against the body and become stiff... ... I'm off for a cold shower.

Switch/contact cleaner then as for most stiff knobs vigorous friction.

Series / parallel can be pretty useful but with 2 buckers I'd be more tempted to go split single options (neck/inner/outer) than phase reversal which is something you might test the water with once when first fitting pups but then write off as as a bad idea for bass.

[url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Farecla-G10-500-500ml-Fine-compound/dp/B003V3ME8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326192204&sr=8-1"]Here[/url]'s what I use. I get it free from a pro body-repairer mate of mine. It does funny things to your hands though (toughens the skin and turns them black if you play guitar shortly after using) so use with care.

You just have to keep at it with the cutting agent until the swirls finally dissapear... adding water helps.

If you want to get as close to a Stingray as possible without spending big bucks look out for a Musicman SUB. It's for all intents and purposes the same thing but built on a no-frills budget. This will blow most of your budget though but believe me it is well worth it. As for the amp, well as you won't be gigging straight away you won't need one. I have a wonderful rig for live work but play most of the time at home through my Korg PX4D* - you will be able to pick up one of these 2nd hand for around £40. If you wanted something even cheaper you could get a basic headphone amp off ebay for a few quid which would do you well while you get to grips with playing and/or save up for your amp. * edit : Gaf is selling a [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/164657-clearout-irig-mic-realistic-pzm-pandora-art-power-mix-2/page__pid__1493341#entry1493341"]PX3B[/url] for £33 posted - same sort of thing but older than my PX4D.

I wonder if the playing frequencies are setting off rattles in your new metal to metal neck bolts. Try a blob of something down the inserts... thread lock, nail varnish etc.

I was going to buy one but then got put off by the side moobs.

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' timestamp='1326067136' post='1491986'] Often when I've seen an extra one added, it was an ill-advised fix for a problem caused by the owner not knowing how to put strings on properly where the string exits nearer the top of post rather than the bottom, the angle over the nut is to shallow & the string doesn't sit so tight over it. [/quote] Knowing how to string a bass properly doesn't always alleviated the problem. Besides, why exactly is it ill an advised fix? If it gets rid of inherent problem with the design, it's a fix. Most fender a-like makers Sandberg, Lakland etc add long string-trees in order to combat the break angle issue on the A and many other exotic makers follow suit with their designs too.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1326053750' post='1491707'] .... It's a long clip, none-Tull fans can just [b]f*ck right off[/b].[/quote] Fixed.

It appears to be a Raven Banshee Standard. To be honest I don't have a scooby but they should sue Sue Ryder Guitars for logo copyright. The pics for the body aren't working for me but I wonder if it originally had a humbucker in it and it was replace with that single coil and surround?

You could try flipping one of the pups to see if it is a phasing issue. Just to check ... the pre had been de-coupled from the circuit?

lol surely it would have been quicker to look in the battery compartment than register and type up the question on here.

[quote name='bassmachine2112' timestamp='1326019170' post='1490976'] You might be able to steam the gouge out. Gunmakers use this trick on walnut gun stocks. It makes the wood expand and they sand it back flush. the grain expands in the wood . [/quote] If there is a chip out of it as the op says, you won't be able to steam that out. Steaming is for uncompressing.

To be fair, I don't think it's the devices fault that that your pick came out during the gig. You should have put it through it's paces before hand and made sure that it would have held fast... even if that meant you had to modify your pick to fit better.

Take the pre amp out of the equation and test again. The vol drop shouldn't be that noticeable with the 70s spacing. Also check with Wizard what your expected readings should be - if you don't already know... (presumably you do as they were custom built for you)

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1326014121' post='1490896'] Looking at this on the screen I noticed a few things . The nut looks like brass and the D and G look sloppy. One of the screw heads on the BAII appears to be missing/chewed/broken. On the rear shot the neck seems to over hang the heel and then taper in. Almost like it's not straight. The BAII appears to be very close to thd edge of the body. That could be angle of the picture or because mines slab bodied making it just look odd to me. [/quote] I thought that about the BA too. And if memory serves (on posting from my phone also) the neck volute seems to have been rubbed away to nothing - a sure sign of amateur interference.... oh and there was at least one broken off tuner screw.

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1325979968' post='1490775'] I know, I've seen people do that before, in this case though, it appears to serve no purpose at all?? Unless the nut is knackered, and this was his option of stopping strings slipping? Who knows? [/quote] It's a fantastic fix for the rattley A that many F style necks experience. The nut is brass so I doubt it is broken and it looks to be well fitting too. However it may accentuate the 440Hz buzzy thing and hence the string tree.

Hmm not a bad idea. I play finger style but sometimes revert back to pick style for more attack or variation for some phrases.... the only thing is I don't use plectrums on bass so I instead use my index finger nail which has subsequently become paper thin because of the unusual wear it gets. I can't see me wearing one of these though.