Ou7shined

+1 for the maple veneer

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='849699' date='May 27 2010, 07:22 PM']Also, look where the nut is positioned on mine in comparison to the OP's bass - His nut is almost 10mm further down the neck.[/quote] Hmmm yes that is a bit [s]worrying[/s] odd - not much consistency there.

Arr that wer me. It's too hard to make out neck relief from that photo when you take into account lens curvature. I'd still investigate the truss rod before removing any material that can't be put back though. If I had it here I could have it sorted in 10 minutes.

[quote name='bubinga5' post='849678' date='May 27 2010, 07:00 PM']IMHO you shouldnt have to substitute anything...i wouldnt play an instrument i wasnt 100% happy with...be it tone, feel, comfort, playability...saying that i dont mind different neck sizes...for me i guess if the tone isnt there you can forget it.. Wide 5 strings dont do it for me thats why the Sei is a gem.. If your unhappy, your playing the wrong bass[/quote] Ah but the question posed by the OP is "if you [b]had[/b] to choose which would it be?".

Yep 4mm is the official MM recommended height. Do you have a pic of your nut (not that one ) for comparison OTPJ?

Well your nut looks to be higher than the one on my 'ray but not too dissimilar to that on a cheap necked P bass I'm using and your bridge height does seem on the high side but not mental. How far can you drop it before it starts buzzing? If you answer what I asked above too I can help.

[quote name='Adrenochrome' post='849489' date='May 27 2010, 03:26 PM']For the record, I've played a few 'Rays (never owned one) and they all had medium-ish necks, could yours be a bit bigger than usual?[/quote] Actually it's a tad naughty calling it a Stingray. It's hewn from a few different bits and bobs and the neck is off a Sabre and I think the Sabres had thinner profiles - they even had the option of Jazz sized necks. Stingrays have slightly wider necks than standard P's but their front to back profile is thinner.

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='849468' date='May 27 2010, 03:05 PM']Ok till about 30 seconds in.....................i say,that's not country.[/quote] And it's one of their mellower ones too. But at least you know now though.

Here's a nice little ditty from Down.

I'm a tone over comfort guy. I have a range of basses and they all do different jobs and feel quite different. I try to pick the right tool for the right job. I was discussing this subject with a BCer the other day (we were talking about strings though) and his take was that he would choose worse sounding strings if they felt comfortable to him. My viewpoint was sod comfort tone should be your priority. We agreed to disagree.

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='849438' date='May 27 2010, 02:38 PM']Who is Rex ?[/quote] Down? Pantera?

[quote name='dlloyd' post='849304' date='May 27 2010, 12:05 PM']! Now that's just lazy... Surely it would take at most a couple of minutes to check that the truss rod and saddles were adjusted correctly?[/quote] Yeah but are too rushed off their feet hanging about at the till sending texts to their mates and dishing out bad advice to clueless customers to get on with anything remotely skilled.

You'll get a 500k one [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsPots.htm"]here[/url].

I doubt that the nuts would be individually crafted it's more likely that they would do a factory run of them. In which case they'd all come out identical. But you've got it in front of you so you'd know better than the rest of us. Looking at my 'ray (which has an incredibly low action) there is about 2mm max between the strings and the finger board at the nut. If you take the action down as far as you can without it buzzing and tell me which end of the board it is fretting out at when playing I could talk you through how to tweak the trust rod.

I'd definitely blame the shop. If it had been set up in the US as stated, think about the umpteen different temperature and humidity states it's has been through since then. It is possible for a trussrod to go out with just a change in the weather. Where abouts is it fretting out?

Truss rod?

Only as a last resort. A tiny squirt might get you through your gig but that's not really it's intended use.

[quote name='Johnston' post='848901' date='May 26 2010, 08:48 PM']I was lookin at that with about half hour to go but it looks like it could be [b]starting to split at the join [/b]at the bottom, which put me off. [b]Any ideas what the extra holes were for? [/b] The on nearest the bridge looks like its got two smaller holes for screws beside it :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:[/quote] Seems like I'm not the only one then. I can't imagine what the bigger holes are about but I would say that the one nearer the bridge had a thumb rest over it to disguise it.

Lol. I was looking at this too but got put off by what appears in the pics to be a couple of big gaps where the laminates join... might just be the pics though. Funnily enough the holes (which probably kept the price down) weren't bothering me. I was think of a maple P (with black p/g) too. Good luck.

There was a batch of bad acid in '67 and everyone in California pulled a sicky. Actually, a couple minutes googling and I found some dating info.... [i]1965- Late in the year pearl dots replaced clay dots in fingerboards and Lollipop tuners were used by December. I know this because I own a DEC '65 Jazz with these features. 1966- Chrome plated Lollipop tuners were used on Jazz basses and binding began on necks with dots. Logo was still the original Fender logo for Jazz basses. Necks began to get the block inlays. Custom colors often had matching headstocks. Maple fingerbaord appeared on some Precision basses, but not Jazz basses. P-basses continued to use unmarked reverse tuners. 1967- Blocks and binding became standard on Jazz basses. Maple necks were still not offered. Lollipop tuners were still prevalent on jazz basses but began to show up in Precision basses. 1968- New "TV LOGO" appears on the Jazz bass late in the year. Lollipop tuners start to get replaced by Fender elephant ear tuners in nickel plating. Rosewood is the only neck offered. Polyurethane replaces laquer on necks. Face of headstock is still done in Laquer. 1969-TVLOGO is now standard on Jazz bass, Precision bass and new nickel plated Fender tuners are standard on the basses. Rosewood is still the only neck avail for Jazz bass. 1970-71- Maple neck is introduced for Jazz bass. It has black block inlay and black binding. I don't believe that white block inlay and binding was offered on a maple neck Jazz bass until 1973. All 71's and 72s that I have seen had the black inlay and binding. Necks are interchangable, so it is possible that a 1967 bass has a newer neck. The bullet truss rod was done to Jazz bass in 1975. That is when the neck attachment was changed to three bolt. [/i]

What a bloody mess they've made of the lacquer and decal. 120 + p&p is too much for this POS.