stingrayPete1977

The OP has put S.U.B so it will be the new entry level one, I'd never buy a new 34 over a used USA Ray myself.

I wonder if the inventors have seen this thread? Maybe they could explain it better.

My bartolini lasts about two weeks if you leave the Jack in, over two years with the Jack in seams overly good unless there is a passive option you leave it on?

They should do a flop show, remember the band they took on? !

They invest in crap then when someone brings a product I'm ready to buy right now they laugh them out of the room, how these people make millions I'll never know!

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1469812063' post='3101293'] A 3A fuse is not right for an amp that could draw over 900W. 240V * 3A =730W. I'd go for a 10A fuse as stated above. What is the rating of the internal fuse? My shuttle 6 has a T-5A internally and the max [i]average[/i] power is stated as 400W on the back of the amp. [/quote] My musings are more in response to this to be honest mate, you cant just look at the wattage (900watt in this case) without looking at the voltage, the example above probably takes a fraction of the input wattage suggested. You can have many more watts out than you put in, but they are at a reduced amperage, the power to move a paper cone isn't much compared to say an electric motor, in that case you might need to reduce the voltage to the point that the input at 3000 watts now only drives a 300 watt motor.

But it is "my sound"

[quote name='Musashimonkey' timestamp='1470071506' post='3103070'] Yeah, but it's so worth it! Right?! I'm sure I can hear the difference. [/quote] Maybe if I was in a proper orchestra I would go the whole hog and have in rehaired with real Unicorn hair, even then I would try and get it from wild Unicorns if possible.

The input and output voltages are totally different, I have a 130 amp mig welder that has a 13 amp plug top on it. That crown power amp is rated at 2500 watt OUTPUT 600 watts maximum input. The fuse is only for the lead so I'd bang a 13 amp in any that has cable and plugs suitable. Watts= Amps x Volts hence once the power goes through the transformer inside the device it is anyone's guess. ie- 5 amps x 230 volts = 1150 watts that would be the Input rating on the rear panel (like the 600 on the Crown I mention) Put that through a transformer and raise the voltage to 920 volts (1-4 ratio primary to secondary windings) and now that same 5 amps at 920 volts would be 4600 watts. To give the same wattage at 230 volts you would then require 4 times the amperage, 20 amps. Very rough bit of maths, the 2500 watt PA power amp then for example that takes 600 watts at 230 volts is pulling 2.6 amps at 230 volts on the input side, so we know it takes no more than 2.6 amps but peaks at 2500 watts output so the transformer is (very very) roughly producing around 961 volts on the output side of the tranny, this is why you should not poke around in amps!

I use synthetic unicorn hair on my double bass bow, those poor caged unicorns.

It's worked for Status Quo for over forty years!

Sounds more like crappy venue and/or engineer than a reason to rely on a cab of your own, if you know that can't happen (i.e. You have control of the PA like most function bands) that's not going to happen, failing that you need to do a JTUK and get written confirmation that there will be six db or d and b monitors at every gig!

It looks kinda bulky on the Jack socket to me anyway, can we add fibre optic leads to things you can walk out of a gig for?

My beater is a 2013 U.S. jazz five,I've Sold all my four string basses including the cheap ones.

The future of everything is wireless, No one is going to go back to a lead in the professional arena even if it's made of unicorn hair. It is totally pointless. Re brand them as heft adding leads and we will see them joining a lime light to a barefaced via a handbox in no time

My first bass was a Foundation just like that but with 4 strings (I was only a begginer remember ) it had the narrowest nut ive ever seen on any bass but it was a cracking bit of kit.

Them xotics are awesome, proper awesome.

[quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1469944226' post='3102130'] Or one of these bad boys [URL=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/chiliwailer/media/Flea/1%2017_zpsw2updny2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah227/chiliwailer/Flea/1%2017_zpsw2updny2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Hard to believe he used these for about 20 years, time flies. Though a Jszz is great for playing along to the later albums. [/quote] Yep, cool as! I still fancy a Funk5 at some point.

Is there a Sandberg version?

There is a pub near me with basses very similar screwed to the walls and ceiling, must be a few grand up there!

I like the look of them tbh but an off the hook black Stingray is probably going to be more use for anyone in a Chilis tribute band, granted most people here just wanted them for what they are. The stack knob Jazz actually pre dates Flea himself by two years.

Well they are not they same actual bass are they, creme knobs, missing logo or has it had a little makeover?

Is it good for metal Work?

I've found the 2012 onwards USA consistently good to be fair, my own USA Jazz 5 was only a few hundred quid more than a new Mex in some cases looks like a few hundred quid well spent, I also got a deluxe hard case included. I like the look of the Flea, make it in the states properly and include a case for £1400 and it would be a good collectors bass imo. I wonder if they will make a US version of the one he is actually playing?

I have a compressor pedal and I have put mine in the same place for the last ten years, top of the spare bedroom wardrobe.