lettsguitars

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1125634' date='Feb 13 2011, 02:22 AM']Nothing is happening to you that is not in the minds of anyone here. It's called living a life, the only one you've got, mind you. Wether you can afford it or not, money and debts will mean jack sh*t once you're dead and gone. Who was it that said: [i][b]"It's better to regret something you did, than something you didn't"[/b][/i]?[/quote] i believe that was god, on the creation of drummers.

this is what you get with kents pickups. [url="http://www.kentarmstrong.com/schematics/KA_Wiring_Instructions.pdf"]not much use[/url]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1130515' date='Feb 17 2011, 01:24 AM']Soldering the joints really isn't a big deal. And nor is checking them with a meter.[/quote] quite. but even though nor kindly checks your work with a meter, i think just using the proper stuff in the first place is more simplerer.

you don't need to glue the nut in. if as you say, the nut is well fitted, it should be held in place by itself+string tension.

you MUST make sure the copper tape you buy states to have conductive adhesive. slug repellant tape WILL NOT DO! the adhesive doesn't conduct and you have to solder all the joins to create a reliable circuit. aluminium foil and glue would be better than nothing if you were stranded on a desert island with nothing but strip lighting, an unshielded bass, amp, gfenerator and a roll of bakofoil. gold is surely the best conductor besides water but is not going to be thick enough unless you can build it up a lot. would definately make for an interesting ebay description. paint isn't as good as proppercopper tape.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1127737' date='Feb 14 2011, 10:16 PM']But you're not illuminating the major points of contact for the string by fretting a note. It's easy to forget the nuts importance - I'd like to see someone hold an untethered string in tune just by pressing it on a fret with a finger tip. The fret is only a third point of contact that allows you to select and increase the vibrations on the "playing" side. The string doesn't become limp above the fretted note.[/quote] he's right you know. hence a string sittin in a slot thats too deep results in buzz behind the fret. i use wood myself. ebony cocobolo ziricote, anything thats hard enough and looks right on the particular instrument. bone on occasion. any weird suggestions for nut material anyone? stone?

[quote name='4000' post='1124929' date='Feb 12 2011, 01:23 PM']It's not the heavy basses that have caused my problems (more like heavy lifting and various injuries), but obviously they won't have helped. Heaviest I've had were my 2 Jaydees which I'd estimate were about 12-13lb each and an ESP Jazz that felt even heavier than that. Now anything over 9lbs is out of the question and I prefer more in the region of 7 or 8, which is what we're aiming for with my Rim. Even my old Ric (8.5lbs tops) is starting to cause me problems, which I never thought would happen. [/quote] i think 7 lb is more than enough for any bass i reckon. i'm starting to go even lighter with my basses. 5-6lb. in ther words of carl thompson "the only thing a heavy bit of wood is gonna give you is a hernia"

yes to all of the above, and i'd just like to say much respect for taking this route. digital is rubbish. lo9ng live vinyl. i decided a while back that any recording i make in the future will be available on tape only. no-one ever wanted the cds anyway, and it's so much cooler to have your demo in fully packaged audio cassette. nice one.

scroll bass now sold. still got the five, and a super light 32" ash 4 string fretless on the way. i'm talking 5lb!!

yes. the drummer should get some brushes for these scenarios, and keep at a low volume. this can aid the learning process too as you can hear more of the little details. bass will go in all directions i'm afraid. soundproofing is not a necessarily expensive affair. in fact it's mostly air. studwall with rubber strips under each bit of plasterboard and air inbetween.

shouldn'y be a problem with your playing style. the flatwork is crewed down and the poles just need putting back in those holes with some superglue. be dang careful with those coil wires! more delicate than a red wine hangover.

how do you do.

fudge the bass! them crazy ass musicians are cooler than they could ever know. the anticool!

'virtually no fret wear'! i wonder why.

we're not delivering eggs. i had a bass destroyed on the way to the usa, but for the uk, just stick it in a nenvelope.

protect the main areas. card between strings and fingerboard (no loose strings flappin around scratchin pups and that), protect the back of the neck, pad around the controls, basic scratch proofing on the body, maybe some padding around the nut, gig bag, bubble wrap, box (homemade). failing that, a nardcase.;

[url="http://www.custombassguitar.net/"]http://www.custombassguitar.net/[/url] crazy shizzle, and i aint talkin about the bass. check the videos at the bottom of the page.

to ship a guitar in a (well packaged) cardboard box is the norm. to get a case is a bonus. shame it couldn't be wrapped in card, but hey. you aint gonna wrap it up in card every time you go to a gig.

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='1116673' date='Feb 5 2011, 04:23 PM']Well done for restricting it to just the -£46.72.... it's cost me thousands![/quote] dave the drummer gets pimped to cover costs.

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='1116664' date='Feb 5 2011, 04:17 PM']I could do with a bit of your luck matey![/quote] in terms of success, not so lucky. i think in 20 years i've made -£46.72