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The phase at 2kHz (and elsewhere) isn't a phase reversal: it's how the phase is represented when it passes 180 degrees. To see what's actually happening with the phase, you need to compensate for time of flight. Right-click on the phase curve and select Estimate IR Delay (on the latest version of REW) - or press Ctrl+Alt+E. Then have another look at the phase graph. Also, the dip at 2kHz is not typical of a phase reversal dip - unless you're using smoothing, of course, which would tend to fill in the dip.

If I take the lowest ohm value stated and put them all in the calc. I appear to be 6 ohm. Which is still in the safe area for the amp. You'll all probably correct me now but that's fine. Still reading and learning.

My mate Kenny's show on Circl8Radio - on Mixcloud

15 speaker. First pic 10 speaker. Second pic Both impedence curves show their worst impact will be the low B kinda area. E upwards looks closer to the nominal.

And make it a 9 string bass... with triplet strings, so a 27 string... double neck. So 54 strings... fretless, headless, neckthru, multiscale...

Armagideon Time - The Clash (original, Willie Williams)

Just picked up a lovely Barefaced Two10 from Pat. Great communications, all as described. Credit to the forum - Thanks Pat!

This page seems to explain that impedence gets higher mostly. https://audiojudgement.com/speaker-impedance-curve-explained/ There example of a 4 ohm speaker reaching as low as 3.4 and as high as 50. High will limit power and not damage an amp. Low would result in damage. So i feel I am safest heading for 8 ohm. So if the 3 speakers have low points in hz. I'd be low chance of dropping below 4ohm. Am I barking up the wrong tree?

Everything's Ruined - Faith No More

haha! not bad that

Looks amazing !

I’ll get my coat 😬

That’s right that’s right that’s right that’s right …🙂

This was the page I calculated the ohms https://soundcertified.com/speaker-ohms-calculator/#3_Series-parallel_and_other_wiring_types It explains I'm OK as long as I'm between 4 and 8. I guess what you're saying is the setup will create different impedance at differing volumes/watts depending on load. The Gnome amp can take between 4 and 8 ohm. So would it be best to set the cabs to 8ohm overall. As if I go higher ohm you lose power but I'm under the impression that it won't damage an amp. Whereas if I go below 4 ohm I could. I don't know enough about the curves to predict. Is there a link to where you read this so I can gain an insight? Thanks

The most I've paid for a bass was a brand new Sterling Stingray 34HH, which cost me just over £1000 in 2021 (and that was 'mates rates' from a local music shop). £1k is the benchmark figure I've used ever since. Apart from not having the disposable income or the frequency of gigs to justify paying more, I've been fortunate to find some bargains in 'B' stock or second hand instruments and I've built up a small stable of basses. My second most expensive bass is a 'B' stock American Precision which cost around £750. None of my other kit has cost more than £500 and I recently played a full gig using a £100 Squire PJ (with a £250 Ibanez semi acoustic as a back up).

mud

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Tricky one, but it's been specified this isn't about what you're getting for the money, so I'll assume that all are 'worth their money' and the £500 bass is fine but it ain't a £1000 bass, which is good but it ain't a £2000 bass, which is great but it ain't a £5000 bass, which is excellent... etc. Up to £500 including mods I'd say is cheap. £500 to £1000 is acceptable for a gigging bass these days as I want to take two out that are broadly similar. £1000 to £1800 was acceptable as a 'main' gigging bass when I preferred to take that and a cheap backup. £2000 is both my maximum combined replacement value for a gigging pair, and my 'expensive' flag for a single home/studio bass. I get that the concept of different gigging and home/studio basses doesn't sit right with some; that's cool - we're just differently comfortable.

Last time I looked at the possibility of getting a replacement, buying second-hand meant old, potentially unreliable, overpriced crap. However I've just had a look on eBay and there are some hopefully suitable machines for around the £150 mark which is probably worth it. Plus if I get all the cassettes digitised in a timely manner, I'll be able to sell it on when I'm done for hopefully what I paid for it.