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What about a cheap bass that requires upgrades to be properly useable? Or that requires a lot of expensive work from a tech etc? What about a bass that costs £2k, gets used for a bunch of paid gigs, then you break even selling it later adjusted for inflation? Was that expensive or was it basically free? Or a mid priced bass that warps or the truss rod breaks or whatever - that’s the one that feels the most ‘expensive’ in the long run to me.

@bass_dinger for cartridges my current sensibly priced favourite is audio technica, the vm95 range is great value and all the stylus versions fit on the same body, so you can start with the cheapest conical one and then upgrade as far as you want, I'm using the elliptical one on my nad turntable and am very pleased with it. Audio technica The conical option is is about thirty quid and I think the elliptical is about fifty. I have generally avoided aftermarket stylii, once the supply of genuine oem options runs out I will swap to a more modern design anyway. Matt

Started out bass life with a SUB being the first proper non-"cheap" bass I owned, spent the next 18 years owning pretty much every type of bass imaginable and never being satisfied, and for the past year I've landed back with a 2016 PDN StingRay and it just ticks all the boxes for me now. The Specials are also wonderful basses (and share much of the PDN spec). I went through a period of trying other older Rays and concur with the other issues noted on here, but the newer ones are very, very much worth trying. Most Ray's I've played have felt like overly harsh sounding boat anchors, but not so with the newer stuff.

You should be able to get some pills for that from the pharmacist. 🤣 Absolutely gorgeous bass, though.

Amazing!!!

You might like this one with Zeeteah, Don is on bass, great Bassline

I have a 1981 Stingray. It is my first and until recently, my only bass. I need a back realignment after playing it for any length of time but.... It sounds incredible. In the early 90's it was Rotosounds through a Trace Elliott 1x15 / 4x10 and it always sounded bloody amazing. Huge growl and a punchy low end. After a decade of laying dormant in it's case, It has seen the light again and yes.... it still sounds bloody amazing! Currently strung with Dunlop flats due to some nerve damage in middle fretting finger (bizarre gardening accident) and you guessed it. It still sounds bloody amazing. Arguably, even better due to a more balanced sound between strings. I can't imagine not having it in my life.

That's a good idea, they'll be able to let me know how big a gauge I'd need to reach a certain tension. The other option is to just order one and try it. I don't like ordering basses just to see but I probably don't have any other option with these.

I want to keep it as tidy as possible so I don't want to plug the LEDs into the USB — Just to make things a little harder for myself.

An alternate driver is the 18 Sound 10NW 650 16 ohm. In the same enclosure it has better than 6dB more maximum SPL through the critical 60-80 Hz range than the Celestion, while the 16 ohm coil gives an 8 ohm cab with two parallel wired. That 6dB translates to one 10NW 650 equaling two BN10-200x. The Pulse xl10-20 is good in the lows, but the mids are a bit spotty due to the lower Fs. I'd use it in a sub.

Freak Pooer (sorry)

He’s the best teacher out there myke, and a great player

I've got a Stingray Special and for me it's the best Stingray ever. It's light, comfortable to play and sounds incredibly punchy. It's definitely different to the vintage Stingray basses of my youth, but for my taste all the differences are improvements. The overall tone is a bit richer and less harsh in the treble whilst still being 100 percent Stingray, the ergonomics are much better and the reduced weight is essential for my aging back and shoulder.

I spent a lot of time researching this - I'm the bellend who decided he *had* to have retina-searing, colour-changing LED strips under all his pedalboards. The ones I use are 12V RGB, so easy to power from a decent Pedalboard PSU (reverse polarity for extra fun!) but they need a lot of mA compared to pedals - approx 1.2A per metre. https://learn.adafruit.com/rgb-led-strips/current-draw If you only want one colour, the draw is about a third of that and the PSU will probably handle it but you'll need to do the maths! You can run them at 9V, they just won't be cornea-scorchingly bright, which would be a shame.

That is a beautiful Rick. I've seen a couple of one-off Custom Shop basses that Rickenbacker have offered for sale in that dark Fireglo finish. Whatever it's called, I really like it.