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  2. Yeah t he early 60s ones were pencil but later they were ink stamped
  3. I play double bass in a Morris band, and when the accordionist isn't available I play accordion. But I got fed up practising accordion wearing builders' ear defenders, and lugging a heavy accordion around. So Thursday's band practice was the first run out for my new (to me) Roland electronic accordion. It went well - it plays much the same as a regular accordion, and the band were happy with the sound it makes.
  4. Made my day, thanks @Alanko 👍
  5. you can write a "stamp" in via pencil
  6. It could be magnetic pull from the pickups interfering with how the string naturally wants to vibrate. A bit like Strat-itus.
  7. With my old Aria, I used a brown liquid shoe polish as a stain on the body dings. The bottle with the little sponge applicator. If the wood has a fresh ding, just blob the polish on, let it set up for a few minutes, wipe it off. Dries in seconds.
  8. Gibson built approximately 1,700 sunburst Les Pauls between 1958 and 1960, of which only 2,500 are accounted for.
  9. ...where did I hear the estimate that there are three times as many vintage Gibson guitars in circulation as were actually made? Probably an urban myth but it would be naive inb the extreme to think that given the dollars involved, and unlike the art world (e.g., a fake Mona Lisa), the deniability, that there aren't more than a few people making and selling fake passed off as legit
  10. basshead56

    Pairs

    Another, another pair of pairs... 😋🤣🤣 70's Olympic White Fenders: A 1978 Precision in Oly White A 1975 Musicmaster in Oly White Shortscale/Offsets A Squier Rascal A 1975 Musicmaster
  11. Thanks for showing this Brian
  12. Wow someone has gone through a lot of work to do that, it’s not an exercise it’s a good attempt at faking, it could easily fool someone, not good in my opinion, makes me question how many others are out there
  13. I think the secret is breaking things down into manageable chunks. 'Today I'll get the neck heel cleaned up' for example ... that means you don't overload yourself. I'm learning tons of stuff for this project. In the past for guitar and electric bass building I've always used urea formaldehyde resin glues like Cascamite (or the two pack version Cascaphen) or Aliphatic resin: the good old standby Titebond. For this project I will be using proper hide glue ... the learning curve may be steep. This sub £30 Amazon wax pot however makes a great glue kettle ... I've been lucky with this one ... the thermostat and the scale around the temperature knob actually agree, and 62c is actually 62c - or about 145 degrees F - the perfect heat for hide glue.
  14. I had one of these and they are bonafide great jazz basses. Sounded amazing.. I ordered a brown tort for it.. glwts.
  15. Today
  16. Agreed. It's just a matter of time before this neck (and maybe whole bass) is listed as being real.
  17. It's not. It's plain, albeit high quality leather, 4" wide and punched at a fixed length of 47", although it could obviously be shortened. I had it custom made to spread the load of a back-breaking Wal 5-string I owned a couple of years ago. I'll put up a couple of more detailed pictures shortly.
  18. These are great cabs, crisp sounds with the tweeter and powers through the mix 🤘 glwts 👍
  19. I didn't know he played a Lakland P type Looks very cool
  20. Back in the 80s I would view the big powerful Trace Elliot heads as the true Rolls Royce of bass amps. I view this as the modern day equivalent.
  21. Yep it certainly muddies the waters somewhat and with even more refinement on their part would catch a lot of people out I’m sure. Bad form tbh even if they’re just doing it as an ‘exercise’
  22. I think we need to form a support group All joking aside, many thanks, I'll bee keeping a very keen eye, I really do need to get started on mine and your thread is just the catalyst I needed 🙏
  23. Looks like our basses had the attention of similar 'repairers'. I think someone has stacked up your neck heel to try and increase the overstand but that looks like a different evolutionary stage to the 'bodger with a bottle' and an unhealthy liking for the white stuff! I discovered from a luthier friend of mine that Isopropyl alcohol has a de-polymerising effect on PVA adhesive and returns it to semi gloopy white bogey state that is pretty easy to just scrape off. It also has an effect on hide glue and shellac varnish, so care needs to be taken you don't get it were it orta not be got 😁 I had to accept that there might be a tiny bit of delamination in the extreme ends of the plywood sides where they meet the neck pocket as I had to use a fair bit of alcohol to get under the joint- actually the damage was miniscule (considering I probably used a half a teacup full of Isopropyl), and a bit of hot hide glue rubbed in there when I re line the cheeks of the neck pocket will sort that fine. Good luck with yours ... any technical help I can provide just hit me up. 😄
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