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You can start with why my new replacement bathroom fan doesn't work if you want...

Over the years been around an awful lot of drugs but never felt the pull of taking anything, so didn't. Never really felt that whatever these people were taking particularly enhanced playing or performance. Considering my exposure, I'm pretty proud of that, too. My parents instilled the "drugs = bad" thing from an early age and I've stuck with that. I've never smoked or even tried smoking. Interestingly, over the last 15 years or so, the musicians in my circle are incredibly clean. No drugs, no smoking, the odd beer. I only know of one guy that enjoys weird beers. That's it.

Tom? As in tom and Jerry then you can yell “Thomas!” At him when he is naughty

I went to a jam session once where three of the guitarists and a drummer were on cocaine. The noodling was never ending. Solos that went nowhere and drum beats that made no sense in the context of what everyone was playing. It was like YouTube playing taken to the extreme.

Sounds like he already has a name - Studio, Studio Assistant.

We had a cat called Artie Fufkin named after the enthusiastic but ultimately useless record company guy from Spinal Tapp. It really suited him. Current felines were given country music themed names Dolly and Tammy.

He said “he” above

Found some old cassettes from late 90’s “hazy” jam sessions - we thought it was the peak of finding the new sounds (Maaaahn!) In reality it was a sloppy noodle fest…awful unlistenable turd. 🫣

Thanks guys, I've never changed the valves, from what I understand the preamp in this range was not designed to break up into saturation or to be overdriven, so I'd never seen much point to changing them especially as I like it how it sounds as if is. But I'd been talking to a mate about it who also suggested the valves being the potential problem, and with these suggestions it sounds like a good place to start. Do you guys have any recommendations for the brands to go for as I don't really know much about them having not owned a valve amp since the 80's.

Our first cat was tortoiseshell, so was named Pickle as she looked like a jar of Branston. The next was Jet as she was black. This one was named Pandora by the rescue home, shortened to Panda by us. Trevor (as in Horn) sounds like the perfect name for your cat already. Thinks he owns the place and is in charge, everyone eles will think he's wonderful, but you pay the bills!

Sick Again - Led Zep

Seems to be. I've been tracking the prices like a hawk 😅 Actually, Fair Deal have it for £875 https://www.fairdealmusic.co.uk/products/darkglass-anagram-bass-multi-effects

The amp makes the noise even without a bass or cable plugged into the preamp. It also does it when muted too. So I don't think the problem is with the bass, but for the record I have 3 basses, all passive and all well shielded and no more noisy in use with other amps than any other basses I've played over the years.

Funnily enough, we discussed this at the time we were investigating the noise at Ainsleys' house. I'd always set the gain level and controlled the output with the master volume, always have as at some point in the depths of time I'd been led to believe it gives you the best signal to noise ratio. But I've heard of others doing the opposite. And it's what originally highlighted this issue.

George (Martin)

Correct this is what I learned in school and also in Germany and Austria

I think this would be it, unless I've done something stupid!

Just to confirm before I pull the trigger, £900 from Andertons or Gear 4 Music is the best deal in the UK for the Anagram, right? Want to make sure I'm not missing a trick before I spunk my money away.

Ermm... it's a long time since I thought about and did these mods, so it's possible that I might spout absolute nonsense here, but I think I've got it right... - In the pedal's original form: Without an exp jack plugged in, the normalising contacts on the socket feed the control signal from the envelope trigger to the filter's control input (TRS = control voltage/5v/0v) So: when a plug is inserted into the exp socket, the signal from the envelope trigger is disconnected, and the filter gets its control signal from whatever appears on the TRS plug that's plugged into the socket. ie: the switching between envelope control of the filter and external expression control of the filter is handled by the normalising contacts of the exp socket. What I wanted was to be able to footswitch between envelope control of the filter, and external expression control of the filter, without needing to unplug/replug the external expression pedal from the socket. So, what I needed to do was: 1) Remove the exp socket from the main pcb. I removed the socket whole, and re-used it. This was a bit tricky, but manageable if your desoldering skills are ok. The alternative would be to carefully dismantle/destroy the socket in place until just the legs are left, remove them one by one, and use a similar replacement socket. So, the six pads on the PCB that are now free of the exp socket represent the output of the pedal's envelope trigger circuit, and the input to the filter control circuit (3 contacts for each) 2) my new footswitch needs to be able to connect the 3 contacts of the filter control circuit (ie the PCB pads where the exp socket's Non-Breaking contacts previously were) to either: a) the 3 contacts of the envelope generator (ie the PCB pads where the exp socket's Breaking contacts previously were), or: b) the 3 contacts of the exp socket (using the Non-Breaking contacts) which will bring in the control signal from the external expression pedal 3) So i) the 3 'common' poles of the 3PDT switch should go to the CV/5v/0v of the filter control circuit pads on the PCB ii) one set of 3 switched poles of the footswitch should go to the CV/5v/0v of the envelope generator signal pads on the PCB iii) the other set of 3 switched poles of the footswitch should go to the CV/5v/0v of the external expression pedal (via the Non-Breaking TRS contacts of the exp socket) When replacing the exp socket in the pedal enclosure, I put it in upside-down relative to its previous orientation, to keep its contacts away from the newly-rewired PCB pads. Reading this back, it sounds like a kinda complicated thing, but it's really not. I think this is just a bad way of explaining it! Hope it may make some sense to you - ask me again if not! I'll see if I can conjure up a diagram or two that might make it simpler to follow.

Thanks so much for responding so quickly. I hadn't noticed the LED. I guess another (last?) question is why three sets of wires from the TRS jack? I would think you just need to be able to close the switch/connection for each of the three poles (T,R,S) on the jack (to mimic the behavior when there is no TRS inserted)? It looks like you have three sets of wires connected to only two contacts per pole? The reason I ask is I think you could implement this (absent the LED) by soldering directly to the exposed/top of the jacks as they are and not have to take the board out (lazy me

Teenage Bottlepocket