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New midget build


jebroad
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After the designs from the 25" scale midget with the carbon neck- I'm creating two new midget basses by the end of this year. Both headless. Possibly fretboard leds. 

The two current designs are two iterations of body body. Feel free to choose a favourite and let me know why. This information could prove useful.

20191001_122750.jpg

20191001_122746.jpg

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1 minute ago, TheGreek said:

I spend a lot of time practicing without a strap - suspect that this is the case with many of us. A lower horn would make this more possible without it sliding off the leg.

That’s definitely a problem with the body shape. The first design of the bass came from when I’d only play on the left knee. That’s where the concept for the lower right concave curve. It was originally meant to sit on the right knee but in a position like to playing left. 

Ill have a go at adding a horn but trying to keep a similar ‘artistic’ concept 

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Your lower horn should be way more longer and rounder to accommodate sitting playing.

This is one of the best design for this purpose (it used to be mine, the best ergonomical bass to date, but the sound was too compressed for me) :

b030.jpg.b9ae975ee4d92e84171593699b50f6fe.jpg

And don't put the output jack on the edge, but on the table or, even better, at the back as it's 100% more convenient.

Like this from the same luthier :

b016.thumb.jpg.df34155ed1934478bba849fbfdbdb84c.jpg

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Are those two body tips à la Status at the bridge side for protecting the tuning system? The length of the body in both ends of it is related to the overall balance. As the instrument is certainly light in weight, I don't see the tips so important if the position is functioning well.

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I like the left hand side of the right hand design - personally I think the right hand side of both designs need a bit of refining. Having said that, the right hand design reminds me of a woman turning to look over her right shoulder.

There's an amazing image of Sofia Loren with that classic "Hour glass" figure -  looked, can't find it - which would be a good reference point, that or Seven of Nine.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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What would everyone think of status style wrap around LED markers but on the treble side? Kind of ruins the point of wrap around markers but I dont want a whopping great channel through the bass side of the neck (may compromise stiffness).

download.jpeg

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Luminlays on the bass side would be easier - unless you are specifically going to the WOW factor (and there's nothing wrong with that ;) )

Why would channelling the bass side be worse than channelling the treble side?

Also, have you played much fretless @jebroad ?  I find the dots on the fret position (and yes - still 3,5,7,9 etc) rather than in the middle much easier to use on an unmarked board - and if you need LED's I'm assuming that even if it was a lined board you aren't going to be able to see them in the dark?

I like your final full size drawing shape, by the way :)

 

 

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This may be far out but I’m toying with the concept of a Viger or Le fay like stainless steel fretboard. Maybe construct a thinner, flat timber fretboard on top of the neck and then 2-3mm of stainless steel on top. Not sure about created a radius with that, however. Possible a radius block with emery?

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On 09/01/2020 at 11:47, jebroad said:

This may be far out but I’m toying with the concept of a Viger or Le fay like stainless steel fretboard. Maybe construct a thinner, flat timber fretboard on top of the neck and then 2-3mm of stainless steel on top. Not sure about created a radius with that, however. Possible a radius block with emery?

You're going to have a long slog to get a radius on SS like that.  Better to find someone who can bend the radius into the steel and bond it to the neck.

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5 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

You're going to have a long slog to get a radius on SS like that.  Better to find someone who can bend the radius into the steel and bond it to the neck.

+1 to above, you could contract the fingerboard cutting and radiusing to a metal machining shop?

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