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Andyjr1515

Finished Pics! Piccolo turns nasty - Dark Side build Number Two

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Andy, this is how I do mine (near bottom of page):

It's not a very flexible system because you are limited to the size of the cutter (19mm diameter) in this case, and they are not always 100‰ wobble free, but if you are ever in Nottingham and want to give it a go just let me know.... It probably takes an hour or so.... 

Edited by honza992
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3 hours ago, honza992 said:

Andy, this is how I do mine (near bottom of page):

It's not a very flexible system because you are limited to the size of the cutter (19mm diameter) in this case, and they are not always 100‰ wobble free, but if you are ever in Nottingham and want to give it a go just let me know.... It probably takes an hour or so.... 

 

Hi @honza992

Ah!  I knew I'd seen that somewhere!  So it was yours :D

Thanks for the link :)

 

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So, with the missing knob arrived, final finished pics :)

As always, thanks for the fantastic support and tips and tricks you have all generously given along the way :)

8aF0Uqjl.jpg

I2VDuJcl.jpg

NOtOgTPl.jpg

nLCH22Bl.jpg

J8C16ctl.jpg

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Congrats on the finished item...Love the top, bet it's even nicer in the flesh.

Catch your breath and then get on with the next project - DON'T KEEP US WAITING!! :angry2::angry2:

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Here's a bit of a crazy idea re home made knobs. It seems really hard to find bushings to insert with an internal spline to use with standard pots - I believe the spec is T18 - or T24 for the fine splined knobs that I think CTS use (just to be awkward).

However I did find these

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/knob-insert-for-diy-knobs/

...though these are splined on the outside (and not the inside) to fit into a hole, and have a set screw - so you could use these on smooth shaft pots with the flat on the side. They may well work on normal splined shafts as well given the set screw would lock on to the shaft OK.

Then I saw they also sell these "micro knobs" https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/micro-knobs/

... which are set up to go on a T18 splined shaft. So in theory you could drill a hole the outer dimension of the knob and then glue the whole knob into the wooden outer casing. A couple of strokes of the hacksaw to score the knob to give the glue something to really grip into and it should be pretty solid. That doersn't help with the fine splined T24 style pots though.

R

Edited by RichardH
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I know it's a guitar but never the less, I reckon that's the mutt's baubles mate.

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3 hours ago, RichardH said:

Here's a bit of a crazy idea re home made knobs. It seems really hard to find bushings to insert with an internal spline to use with standard pots - I believe the spec is T18 - or T24 for the fine splined knobs that I think CTS use (just to be awkward).

However I did find these

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/knob-insert-for-diy-knobs/

...though these are splined on the outside (and not the inside) to fit into a hole, and have a set screw - so you could use these on smooth shaft pots with the flat on the side. They may well work on normal splined shafts as well given the set screw would lock on to the shaft OK.

Then I saw they also sell these "micro knobs" https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/micro-knobs/

... which are set up to go on a T18 splined shaft. So in theory you could drill a hole the outer dimension of the knob and then glue the whole knob into the wooden outer casing. A couple of strokes of the hacksaw to score the knob to give the glue something to really grip into and it should be pretty solid. That doersn't help with the fine splined T24 style pots though.

R

That's great info Richard.  I will follow the links with great interest :)

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11 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

That's great info Richard.  I will follow the links with great interest :)

The only problem with the bushings is that they have an internal diameter of 6.3mm, so may well not be right for the pots you have installed. The micro knobs have a diamater of 7.7mm, which would probably mean a drill bit of 21/64". I also found these https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-slim-metal-potentiometer-knob-10mm-diameter-x-10mm-t18

10mm diameter, 10mm height - there is also a taller one - but the turned aluminium finish would have great "grip" for bonding to.

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10 minutes ago, RichardH said:

The only problem with the bushings is that they have an internal diameter of 6.3mm, so may well not be right for the pots you have installed. The micro knobs have a diamater of 7.7mm, which would probably mean a drill bit of 21/64". I also found these https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-slim-metal-potentiometer-knob-10mm-diameter-x-10mm-t18

10mm diameter, 10mm height - there is also a taller one - but the turned aluminium finish would have great "grip" for bonding to.

Some amazing sites, Richard.  I'm going to give those inserts on the Thonk site a try.  I do the old trick of scewing the grub screw into the gap of the split spindle - it should splay the 1/2 mm oversize OK.  At 55p each, it's certainly worth a punt.

Thanks for the lead - don't think I'd have ever found this myself ;)

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Once again, BC members get down to the nitty gritty and come through for each other.

If I felt any warmer or looked any fuzzier folk would think I was a lagging jacket!

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17 hours ago, RichardH said:

Here's a bit of a crazy idea re home made knobs. It seems really hard to find bushings to insert with an internal spline to use with standard pots - I believe the spec is T18 - or T24 for the fine splined knobs that I think CTS use (just to be awkward).

However I did find these

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/knob-insert-for-diy-knobs/

...though these are splined on the outside (and not the inside) to fit into a hole, and have a set screw - so you could use these on smooth shaft pots with the flat on the side. They may well work on normal splined shafts as well given the set screw would lock on to the shaft OK.

Then I saw they also sell these "micro knobs" https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/micro-knobs/

... which are set up to go on a T18 splined shaft. So in theory you could drill a hole the outer dimension of the knob and then glue the whole knob into the wooden outer casing. A couple of strokes of the hacksaw to score the knob to give the glue something to really grip into and it should be pretty solid. That doersn't help with the fine splined T24 style pots though.

R

Interestingly, the CTS pots I've used do have T18 splines.  Like you, I was pretty sure they were finer.  They have brought out a metric version and more budget versions...maybe that's what I have.  Anyway, for the sake of a couple of £'s, I'll probably get the pihut ones too.  Again, thanks for the leads ;) 

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The great thing about building your own guitars is that you lose the fear of changing things :D

A couple of times, friends have gone pale - after agreeing with me that something might be maybe shaped a little differently - when I immediately get out the rasp file and hack into the gleaming beauty, there and then.  "Something like that?" I ask, as they sway from the shock.

Well - I'm just about to do the same here.  Having played this myself over a couple of days, and having just watched someone whose objective opinion I greatly respect play it, I'm going to get the micro-plane rasps out tomorrow and create some sawdust :drinks:

This is what it looks like at the moment:
V5E3SbMh.jpg

And this is what I think it should look like:
IDZjI4Zh.jpg

Yes - it's subtle but I think it will make a big difference to the playability.

In summary -

  • Slightly deeper cutout at the top horn.  The contact I watched play is - a bit like me - a lazy-thumb player.  That is, his thumb stays in the 'wrap-round' position even when he's playing the higher frets.  And when he's playing the highest frets, he anchors his thumb round the cutout.  In terms of my own playing (I rarely venture that high playing lead...makes my nose bleed) there is one number where I have to play barre chords with a capo on the 8th fret.  It is possible with this guitar as is, but it would be a lot more comfortable with another cm of hand space :)
  • Slightly deeper cutout on bottom horn.  No real benefit to me, but same logic to a 'proper' lead player
  • Slightly further rearward lower waist.  This guitar, as is, is GREAT on the strap...but, for me, it's just not quite right played over the knee.  I was interested to see exactly the same when my contact played it

It will only take 1/2hr to make the changes, but it will then, of course, need refinishing.  But that itself is an opportunity because I'm going to give the Gloss version of the Osmo one more go - but applied closer to how it is supposed to be applied than how it's been applied above.

This, of course, means a complete strip-down but what the heck - what else am I going to do in the evenings?! ;)

Oh...just to add.  My contact runs a very successful guitar and music shop and - with me allowing maybe a smidgin of smugness to creep in - I feel obliged to mention that he loved the neck profile and feel.  Took a while to get my swollen head through the shop door back onto the street   :biggrin:

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17 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

...And this is what I think it should look like:
IDZjI4Zh.jpgYes - it's subtle but I think it will make a big difference to the playability...

Playability is the main thing, I agree.  In this case I think the the guitar will benefit from looking slightly leaner too.  Not that it was porky looking or owt before... heeheehee.

Refinements are what you're good at my friend.  I have every confidence in you.

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I also prefer this proposed new shape but also wonder whether the top horizontal cutaway -  i.e. opposite the lower waist you are planning to deepen for knee comfort - should also be made slightly deeper. i think that may look a bit more balanced and will complete the new shape.

Edited by roman_sub
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3 hours ago, roman_sub said:

I also prefer this proposed new shape but also wonder whether the top horizontal cutaway -  i.e. opposite the lower waist you are planning to deepen for knee comfort - should also be made slightly deeper. i think that may look a bit more balanced and will complete the new shape.

Yes - probably :)

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