EBS_freak

Sounds like you need a Klang 3d system... (and plenty of pennies!) What you speak of isn’t common - I’m guessing your source is very variable and that causing you some problems. I’d probably be looking at some expanders and compressors to help even things out - but guessing your desk is not digital? (And maybe hasn’t got that feature set?)

They’ll do it! When I got a spare night or two, I’ll get a Nextion out and make up some code and build in some coding ability for a MIDI controller. Should’nt be too difficult - the only thing is, will need to expand to save the preset somewhere so it’s not lost on powerdown. Shouldn’t be an issue though. One of the things I’ve been meaning to do for ages is create a looper. Never got round to it. Not enough hours in the day!

Gosh - there's quite a lot to this. If you are riding the faders that much that a hand off monitor mix can't be established... there's something fundamentally different going on with your band. Im guessing guitar patches for different songs are radically different. Remember, your monitor feeds should be pre fader, so whatever is happening FoH shouldnt be impacting your monitor mix. So lets have a look - 1. What drums are miced? It's nice to have a full miced kit in your ears, so it can all be panned nicely etc... As a minimum, I'd be looking at a kick and overhead, positioned over the opposite shoulder to the one nearest the snare, pointing across the kit, pointing at the snare and hihat. This will give you the most coverage of the kit but enable you to hear the detail in the hi hat. 2. I don't quite know what to suggest here. If everything is close miced up, you shouldn't have a radically different sound in terms of volume. If you are riding the faders as much as you, there's something wrong with the patches or the dynamics of the players. 3. Full isolation is possible - it's whats you feed into your mix which is crucial. Want to hear the audience? Mic them up. Vocal introductions? Introduce a talk back mic.. possibly on an optogate. 4. This sounds like a TRS/TS issue. Are you trying to use a stereo jack on a mono output or something - and was the guitar panned where the others weren't? Pulling the jack would sum to mono and would result in what you describe. 5. Are you all on a shared mix or something? Or have you not got your own aux? What mixer are you using? I suspect you aren't giving IEMs a fair chance because it sounds like you could be being limited by the equipment that you are using? Always assume you can hear nothing unless it's miced up - and go from there. If you need to hear the guitars, mic them up. If you need to hear synths - make sure you have a feed from them going into your aux bus... same with bass DI. Think that we've covered the kit - but again, the more you can mic up, the better control you will have over the balance. You don't even need to push things through FoH - for example, you could have a Vox blaring away on stage at such a volume it doesn't need to be miced to go through the FoH, it's only miced so it can go through your IEMs.

That's usually the problem when using smaller format boards - but there are other boards out there which will give you the multiple outs you'll need. Given the size of the box you are using, you should have some options for changing boards. You could also give this a whirl - https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/TwoPortReceive

Ha - P16M will be another game changer for you! You'll be - how the hell did I cope without stereo?! The good news is that freeing up an aux will open up further possibilities for the board! (Note - it's not essential to have a free aux to use this board... we've gone through many iterations as how the amp and board element should co-exist. With your particular setup, you'll have lots of options!) The board is coming along nicely, I think that we are nearly there from the first phase of getting the plans all computerised for CNC- just got to try and figure out what the cheapest way of getting the prototypes made... and currently trying to get all the elements (and especially the cool as !!!! badges made), cost effective. Not going to rush these things out - both of us want these to be bang on! (Both in performance and looks) - Once we have the first two out, I suspect Nick and me going to be taking them through their paces to refine as required. Stick with us - they are looking cool as hell!

Thats the cost of the transformer in play... Some of the cheaper active DI boxes are transformer less - but will actually sound better than their transformer based counter parts.

Listen to Phil - persevere and get used to it! Here's the link to which Phil refers - (there's been similar conversations in this thread but this is probably easier to find and digest!) A couple of behringer C2s into a couple of channels on your mxing desk is also another cheap enough shout for putting the room back in your ears... so to speak. Again, there's no right or wrong about ambient or not... it's doing what you feel comfortable with.

Theres loads of little projects - midi controllers, dmx controllers, switchers...

Hey @stoo ! Good to see that there's other folk out there playing with this sort of stuff. Majority of stuff nowadays is programming via Pis - and the pure electronics side of things is defo becoming a dying skill. In terms of screens, you may want to be look into Nextion screens. These will give you a much larger/cost effective real estate than OLED to play with and give you the option of nicer graphics / animations and just receives pushes data to/from the arduino over serial. (You will lose your debugging capability to your IDE unless you have 2 serial busses available). The other cool thing is that if you do decide to add any programming functionality to your project, then you have a nice touch screen interface to play with.

https://guitar.com/news/t-rex-engineering-declares-bankruptcy/amp/?fbclid=IwAR26rKS47Fe2YQDvcfnCts4F6WdLZxsfQcyr1ktCsGJz1dyRH7-iQCnk2-o

OK going through your post - Is the distribution unit a one to many headphone amp? If it is, you are all going to be sharing the same mix... which is a huge compromise to start with. As you may have read, you ideally want a minimum of an aux each, which will give you your own individual mono mix. Stereo is better... but mono is better than nothing! I'm guessing with an A&H you are looking at one or maybe two prefader auxes... again, this will compomise things greatly for you. I would give the UI16 another go - the connectivity problems are going to be down to the useless onboard wifi systems that the manufacturers bundle with their routers. Literally any old 5Ghz router that you can find, new or old (have you got any old internet routers from home knocking around?) are pretty much guaranteed to solve any connectivity problems that you have got. You are right though, using the UI16 as a monitor mixer is going to be infinitely better than what you'll be able to do with the analogue desk. If you are wanting to use a true monitor world/front of house split desk setup, you are going to be looking at investing in some analogue splits and looms so you can split the signals between the two mixers. Honestly though, I think you'd be better off revisiting the UI16 and using that as your only mixer.

Im now completely confused.

Whats the budget?

Powering one is not bad... you have phantom! Whats the issue that you are trying to address- I remember we spoke briefly about it.. but can't remember the detail!

Not for me - but thanks for the in-depth review! But then again, I don't think I would use them in the manner in which you would - I'm all about everything through the PA, no backline!

If your monitors can't fit into your glove box, then you aren't doing it properly :p

Hey Andy - sorry about the delay (didn't want you to think that I had glossed over your entry - but my battery died on my phone mid response) - with regard to the limiter, a lot of external IEM specific limiters I don't find to be that great. Most of them are simply a device that stop you from turning the volume up rather than introducing any particular sort of compression before hitting a limiter. With regards to a recommendation, if you want a true brick wall limiter, set a fast attack 20:1 with a hard knee compressor on the aux buss(es) of your digital mixer. (You could do this by using an outboard limiter if you haven't got a digital desk... but with the cost of an XR18 now, just get one already if you haven't!) Hope this helps!

A few questions - are you running any ambient mics? And more importantly, are you running in stereo? A stereo ambient mic should alleviate all your problems. Can you tell us more about your setup? Running with one inear in and one out isn’t ideal - especially from an ear safety point of view. You tend to over compensate on volume and end up blasting your IEM loaded at dangerous levels. If it’s the sensation of wanting to “feel” big air from an amp... give us a bit, me and super @intime-nick are working on that as we speak. The potential production candidate board is looking awesome. Should have the board design going off to be CNCed any time now. Then it will be a case of making sure they are fine and dandy!

A man of taste! That’s my American Burr Walnut Spitfire. An absolute awesome bass.

You wait til you ditch the tips for the custom fit... another significant improvement waiting for you! That Can't Stop Playing track is one that separates the men from the boys in the bass department! 😛

I know it's disappointing - but in reality, it's the best thing. A lot of people would go ahead and take the impression anyway. There is no point in having an impression taken with wax build up - you'll end up with a useless impression... or even if it does go forward to build, you'll end up with an less than perfect fit. This then causes further disappointment and delay and hassle for everybody involved... shipping back, refits, etc etc... Best to get the impression right from the word go. Yes, some impressions will still result in a less than perfect build - but they are ultimately a lot more rare and easier to deal with and put right than one sources from a duff impression. Anyway - did you manage to audition and choose an IEM? If so, what did you go with?

Don't get me started...!

Plastic nuts on the jacks 😞 otherwise, looking great

Im guess it's for better matching to various amplifiers. Some of Hartke's amps go down to 2 ohm, whereas it's probably fair to say that most amps go down to 4 ohm. By having their cabs switchable to 8 ohm, it makes it more friendly for attaching multiple cabs to 4 ohm stable amps.

Indeed it was!