stevie

You're a very fast worker, fleabag.

Makes sense. There's no reason for the curve to fall off so soon. You do occasionally get a driver with that kind of sloping response, but they're usually bass drivers with heavy cones.

Yes, I would. Because the ports are in the corners, you should leave those areas clear.

Yes, well that takes care of the theory but doesn't really explain what to do. The principle is to add as much damping material as you can to reduce standing waves and flutter echoes without reducing the output from the ports (too much). It's a bit of a balancing act, but with the right measuring equipment you can see exactly what effect the damping is having on the system and choose the optimum amount of internal damping. That's how I arrived at the damping layout for the Basschat 12 cab. If you over-damp, you'll reduce port output; if you under-damp, you'll have a lot of ringing going on inside the box. As a rule of thumb, you should line all the walls but keep the area around the ports clear.

What's the wadding in cabs thread? There is a logical method for doing this but you need measuring gear to do it properly. I'd definitely put some wadding in the centre of each wall. It could sound a bit boxy without.

Great job so far. The cab would probably benefit from more wadding.

It will be all right when we do a trade deal with the USA. Don't worry.

You got off lightly. You should have been charged import duty as well.

I put two coats on with the fine roller and finished with one coat with the sponge roller. I was pleased with the way it turned out, although it took a while because I hadn't used it before. I prefer the slightly rougher finish.

I used 1/2 kg of Tuff Cab on the Basschat 12 cab, which is obviously a lot smaller than this. Unfortunately, you can only get the 1kg size in black. So what colour did you choose?

Nice to see a few more folks taking the DIY route. It really isn't that difficult, and the results can be spectacular. Well done E.

I love it when a plan comes together! 15mm poplar is an excellent choice. Subbed (as they say).

I expect some Likes from the usual suspects.

A flagship company is one of the best in its industry or country. In our industry, we all know this is Barefaced, right?

The great thing about Basschat is that you can always find an expert on something.

Probably best not to draw attention to the fine details.

I found this on a page entitled: Dog vomiting yellow bile, with blood in the morning: Good match I'd say.

But some people like puke yellow.

At least the driver manufacturers provide a frequency response under known conditions (and TS parameters) so that you can get a good idea of what their products do. Comparing the datasheets for the two Faital divers is quite informative. Bass cab manufacturers could do something similar, but choose not to.

I was going to say exactly the same thing. Midrange efficiency, which is what everyone is talking about when they quote efficiency figures, doesn't really matter that much in a bass guitar cab. What matters is its efficiency at low frequencies - and cabinet size is a major factor in that. The PR320 gives up a couple of dBs of midrange efficiency compared with the PR300 but gains LF output potential. Here's a comparison of the two in the cab we're using: It's clear from this that the extra midrange efficiency of the PR300 doesn't contribute anything useful. It just (over-)emphasises the mids. To get a proper sound balance between bass and midrange , you'd probably want to cut the excess mids. In a mid-high PA cab, where you have subs, the PR300 would be the better choice because that's where you want good midrange efficiency and aren't too worried about excursion.

Thanks, Charlie. I find that using a good compression driver (with the right horn) in a bass cab makes a huge difference. Unfortunately, good ones cost nearly as much as the bass drivers themselves. On the rare occasion that I pop over to the dark side, I am always impressed by what Duke is getting up to. He's virtually the only person in the business who continues to push the envelope and provide practical solutions to the problems bassists have with their cabs. The particular problems that this new design tries to address are: 1. Hearing yourself clearly in front of your compact cab without having to raise it, tilt it or stick another cab on top of it. 2. Hearing the same sound you are sending to the audience (how else can you balance your sound properly?). 3. Producing a sound that does not change when you move around the cab. 4. Producing a sound that is balanced without needing a second cabinet to boost the bottom end. 5. Producing a sound that "throws" into the audience and retains clarity (i.e. doesn't become boomy) at a distance. 5. Having a flat frequency response cabinet that doesn't need endless fiddling with your amp's midrange controls before it sounds right. I can see that these are the kinds of things that Duke is also takes into consideration in his designs - so I feel that I'm, in good company.

I have an SR500 and have no problem with a straight Neutrik jack plug. I believe OBBM uses them. If you upgrade your lead to something fitted with Neutriks the problem will go away.

I don't see any evidence they're any better or worse than anything else. Is there really a glut of used Mark Bass cabs? There are currently none in the Basschat amps-for-sale section until you get to page 3 - quite a few MB amps though, and quite a few other brands of cab.

I had an LM3 for a while and thought it was fine. However, I have also played a few times through a Markbass rig (15" + 2x10" ) with the same model amp and had to pull back the bottom end and boost the HF to get a balanced sound. This was at a small festival that I have played at several times - so I was able to hear other players through the same rig. Most of them left the controls flat and sounded like they were playing a double bass in a cupboard.

You could tag him and ask him to come along and explain how it works.