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Everything posted by mazdah
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[quote name='Brother Jones' timestamp='1440332217' post='2849847'] GK MB150E. The little, supposedly 150w combo (do they still make them?). I only bought it because it was cute and supposedly portable. In reality, while it was small, it was also extremely heavy [/quote] You are joking right? This amp weights 26 pounds. SVT810e is heavy, this GK is a feather...
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Ashdown ABM-115 with speaker from MAG-115 - will it work?
mazdah replied to mazdah's topic in Amps and Cabs
OK, I just did it. The speakers are (in my case) THE SAME! Both have the same number: HK-07490. Works great, sounds a bit better due to larger plywood enclosure -
Ashdown ABM-115 with speaker from MAG-115 - will it work?
mazdah replied to mazdah's topic in Amps and Cabs
I still have Ampeg PF stack with one 15 But I`m building a second stack because I find my LB-30 sounding a little bland with Ampeg cabs, while my Ampeg preamp and B-1 hybrid head sound fantastic through them. I`ll try the speaker today, first I have to buy a soldering iron -
I just bought MAG-115 cab, and while I quite like the sound I think I'm going to experiment with it a little. I also have an empty ABM-115 enclosure (the big one, not Compact) and I think I'm going to try the MAG speaker in it. The enclosure is a lot bigger so I'm worried how the speaker will handle it. What do you think about this idea?
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A different question about power amplifier output (in the real world)
mazdah replied to Dood's topic in Amps and Cabs
Good Lord, I'm using one 150W amp and one 30w to gif regularly, art/prog rock and experimental. Hefty enough. -
PN410HLF is an 8ohm cabinet you need at least two. Try two smaller cabs like PN210 or Ashdown Neo 210
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You can EASILY have those ABM-300 and LH-500 repaired. And dirt cheap. PF-350 and Markbas... not so much.
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[quote name='BassAgent' timestamp='1435435711' post='2808839'] ...but it's not a 212 It's a SuperCab. 10", 12" and three tweeters. [/quote] I assumed that, because it looks different than 212, but I only played 212 so I praised it
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Congratulations! I really liked Puma 500 and their 212 classic cab is pure bliss!
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600 has an output transformer so the sound should be beefier. Also the preamp is slightly different, more options. 1000 is what you have, just more power
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It's 3PRO from early 90's. There were not much different than modern ones, as far as I know they should be pretty much the same. Should be as reliable (or even more reliable due to no ROHS limitations!) as new ones. May need some pot cleaning or retube - but only if not working properly. If you have no-name made in china tubes there, and the amp is working allright - leave them. They were very solid, mine had 11-years old 12au7 that was ~60% better than new Sovtek The cab is SVT-410HLF or HLN (N were the same as F, but had Neutrik Speakons, later they got back to the HLF name).
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It doesn't have to be useless. 50w of all tube is quite a punch, I think it will be suffice. A little dirt from the power amp might add a nice charm to your sound. I regularly gig with Little Bastard 30w all tube amp, and for really loud gig I take 150w Ampeg b1 head, most of the time with only one can so it is more like a 80-90 solid state watts. It's alright.
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I would say: all valve! Ashdown LB30 or CTM30 with VS212 or 112 cab. This bass needs valves!
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Not for me. Everytime I take my PF-210HE cab to play a gig or rehearsal I always struggle, while my PF-115HE is always more then capable to deliver any gig. So single "15 for me.
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So did I, but I leave tone always open. Eventually I changed it to Ashdown LB30 - louder and more serviceable. I liked the Ampeg, but reliability factor won. If it's a new amp, send it back to service. If not - open it and trap gently components to locate the rattling. Then see some technician..
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My PF350 rattled and I had to send it to repair service. They injected some silicon on rattling parts and the rattle was gone. Also the cabinet lid can rattle. Is your amp attached to the cab? Mine rattled only when it was attached.
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Amps - great from any period, but MiC, miV and MiK may have slightly worse cosmetics, components are the same, most of the time from the same manufacturer Cabs - avoid Made in USA 2000-2006, they are mad of OSB, whereas Korean, Chinese and Vitnamese are real thing, just like oler US Made ones.
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It is usually the best choice to buy the amp made in your country. Better contact with manufacturer, better technical service - you can send the amp to the producer after warranty, you can get some parts for free. Of course the sound is a very important factor. In UK - Ashdown. Maybe Orange and Hiwatt too. In US - Hartke (you can call Larry Hartke himself!), Mesa, Peavey, Kustom (they had great customer service for Groove heads few years ago).
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Unfortunately I can't see any additional tube on the photos. I'm afraid Mark answered rapidly and thought that you are asking about dp30 vs ctm15
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It's a smaller version of 450 with minor improvements. The sound is pretty much the same, the power amp is designed a little better, for not reliability. If you like the character of the sound its the lightweight amp for you. I always preferred Ampeg or (since few months) Ashdown and for hifi I liked Hartke more. Taurus is too "rock modern", not like TecAmp or Markbass.
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I love SM57 as a budget option. I play 4 string PBass with flats, very mid-heavy sound, so the character of this mike fits me.
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[quote name='dave74200' timestamp='1427112066' post='2725803'] I said 'in my experience'. Perhaps it's you that's wrong? [/quote] Well I may have used wrong word, because English is not my main language and here in Poland we have much less polite way of speaking than people in UK so I apologise if I offended you. I wasn't trying to be rude. Preamp tubes and hybrid amps indeed doesn't have and doesn't need "preheat" option (standby switch) but every tube needs few seconds to start working properly. That's why 3pro has build-in "auto warm up" and starts playing after 45 seconds, and that's why hybrid amps come to life after few seconds (gradually increasing the volume).
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I'd seriously consider selling my SVP-PRO to get this one. And I've never seriously considered selling my preamp. And I'm not a fan of nirvana.
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Ufortunately Dave, you are very wong. The preamp tubes should have some time to run properly after turning on the amp. They need time to warm up to work at all. I have two tube preamps and one hybrid amp - none of them starts working immediately, they need time to warm up. I hade SVT-3PRO which needed approx 45 seconds to work after turning on.
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It has pretty much staple Ashdown tube sound, which is great but it doesn't have that dirty mids I love in my SVP preamp. The power is there, the look is amazing, craftsmanship is outstanding. There is one sitting in a local shop... A lovely one but I had to go with Bastard (weight and price). Buy it, you won't regret it