ColinB

I've just raided my PayPal account and bought a GFS MM pro plus that has 4-conductor wiring.... but it'll be a while before it arrives. I'll report back!

[quote name='Osiris' timestamp='1420116609' post='2645697'] It's probably worth seeing if the existing pup can also be wired with a series/parallel switch too as this would be an even cheaper option. [/quote] I've looked.... nope! It's a two-wire p/up.

Bump.... 'cos I use flats and have passified my Ray4 and I'm still unsure on the sound. 'Nasal' was a good word. My first thought (actually, it's my third thought now) is to buy a GFS MM pickup and wire it in with a parallel-series switch. What d'you think, please.

I love a happy ending. Congrats on your purchase..... and I'm looking forward to a review (please) as that's on my 'watch carefully' list.

Can you ask her to talk to my mum, please! Congrats on your parent therapy purchase..... now send her a picture of you gigging it.

That's a good deal! (it's also quite heavy!)

Yep - that was a very good, informative review.

[quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418913643' post='2634773'] P.s. Where might I be able to get someone to cut a Sterling pickguard with this additional pickup cut in it too? Cheers [/quote] If you get the pickguard cut first, you can then use it as the router template for the body.

[quote name='Hutton' timestamp='1418903197' post='2634617'] Agreed. It's far better to get loads of examples. It's how you find out stuff you haven't heard before. [/quote] Indeedy - The Crusaders stuff is fantastic. Great thread.

I use the Wizard P/J set and I'm very pleased with it. I see Hot-rod pickups are doing a higher output set so I don't think they're the same. They might wind you a pair of lower output ones if you ask.

Works fine for me!

[quote name='Iain' timestamp='1418568182' post='2631222'] The 'need a spare' is also a great excuse to buy yourself more toys... [/quote] Yep - just done that by using that line of reasoning!

[quote name='theyellowcar' timestamp='1418573081' post='2631277'] Certain American dealers have a Surf Green/Maple version of the Ray 4. I wish I could get my hands on one of those bad boys but they won't export them to the UK. [/quote] Drool

[quote name='Heket' timestamp='1418484519' post='2630596'] Honeyburst?! Where are you guys finding all these cool colours, I had a choice of black, white or walnut satin (which I have). I'd have [i]loved[/i] a honeyburst one. I shouldn't complain too much as I got mine in a clearance sale, but I would have paid more for a snazzy colour. [/quote] They're at Thomann: [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/search.html?filter=true&gk=giebs4&manufacturer%5B%5D=Sterling%20by%20Music%20Man"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/search.html?filter=true&gk=giebs4&manufacturer%5B%5D=Sterling%20by%20Music%20Man[/url]

It starts at post #339 on this page.... [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/sterling-by-music-man-sub-ray4-and-ray5.871370/page-17"]http://www.talkbass.com/threads/sterling-by-music-man-sub-ray4-and-ray5.871370/page-17[/url] However; the first post is the circuit diagram that Discreet posted above, the other posts are step-by-step photos and instructions from the VP. He takes a lot of time and trouble to post the instructions and then some tw*t has a go at his soldering skills! Jeez!

My SUB Ray 4 in Honeyburst arrived yesterday evening. Give me a couple of days to get a proper feel for it and I'll post up a review. Initial impression (after a set-up but with the el cheapo strings still on)..... crackin' bass.

....and be quiet, or I'll give you something to really cry about!

You could tap the nut out and use a cut piece of wood veneer underneath it - and don't use any glue to start with as it's a trial and you'll probably want to change it at some stage soon. The string tension will hold it in place. However, if the original nut's been put in with a lot of glue then there's a chance of pulling a lump out of the edge of the finger board. What I tend to do is turn the bass on it's front, and place the edge of a 1/8" chisel exactly on the join of the nut and fingerboard and then give it a light tap or two with a small hammer to try and move it vertically upwards. This tells you how well it's stuck. If it doesn't come out with a light tap then I cut it out, which isn't an option for you. Go the 'paper under the strings' route to start with, just to check to see if the nut is too low.

There's an 'ignore list' in the [i]your profile[/i] drop-down at the top right. I suggest that putting BeardyBob on it might be a good idea for those who don't want to read his stuff. Just a thought.

That looks lovely. However; the Root-Beer Metallic looks stunning.....

I'm feeling blue!

How about a transparent p/g.... the copper shielding would be very Steampunk..... or a copper p/g?

Nah! You just need some copper pipe from B&Q and arrange it like this..... [url="http://www.earthbornerising.com/Pyramids.html"]http://www.earthbornerising.com/Pyramids.html[/url]

I get 4.8 Ohms.... and your plugging in assumptions are correct and it is called running in parallel. It doesn't matter which cab comes first. As to how you would know....... I don't know. Decades of playing and 20 years a Physics teacher is a great help to me.