Fionn

Bought a nice set of flats from Chris ... all good, very happy, etc. cheers man! 🙂

Thank you 🙂 Oh! I never noticed that was there. That’s my partner’s clip-on Snark tuner. She plays acoustic guitar around there.

After another bout of tweaking, this is where my board is at. It’s set-up to have two basses (fretted & fretless) plugged into the Preamp simultaneously, with 3 programmed tones (2 Clean & 1 Overdrive) for each bass. All the other pedals are linked through the internal FX loop of the SansAmp. The pedal order works for me, I’m delighted, although a few compromises were required for the greater good. The chain goes ... Preamp (SansAmp Bass Driver Deluxe) >>> Tuner (Korg Pitch Black) >>> Compressor (MXR M87) >>> Synth/ Octavers (Markbass Super-Synth) >>> Fuzz (ZVEX Mastotron) >>> Envelope Filter (MXR M82) >>> Chorus/ Flanger (MXR M83) >>> Phaser/ Ring Modulator (Ibanez PM7) >>> Delay/ Reverb (Boss RV-3) >>> Volume/ Wah (Hotone Bass Press) >>> Boost (Mooer Pure Boost) >>> Looper 1 (TC Electronic Ditto) >>> Looper 2 (Boss RC-300 *not shown*) >>> DI/ Out (SansAmp again) ... Elsewhere on the board, the PSU is a Diago Powerstation, plugged into a 3-port extension socket (adapted with a right-angled female kettle socket) . The 12v Markbass PSU also plugs in there, with a free socket available for my amp if needs be. I just plug a kettle cord into the board and I’m totally powered up and good to go. The patch leads are Bespeco. These have been totally reliable and are noise-free. The whole board operates very quietly and cleanly. The 3 buffered pedals are all good. Also in the case is a wee box for bits n bobs; earplugs, spare patch lead, spare battery, capo (yes, a capo), and a couple of mutes. I made raised plinths of various heights to attach some of the pedals to, so that they’re all accessible/ easily clickable. In addition to this board I use a multi-track Looper (Boss RC-300). It’s about 2/3 the size of my pedalboard, so it lives separately. That unit has its own FX section, though I only use the delay function. Very handy when looping, as the delays are synced. I’m satisfied with this for now, but you know how it goes ... I’m already thinking about putting an anologue Octaver in there (in addition to the Markbass). I’ve got 3 switchable Octave settings programmed via the software on that, and they’re fantastic, especially when used in combination with other pedals ... but they do sound very digital. I had been thinking about the new MXR Vintage Bass Octave, though I’m coming round to the idea of the wee Valetone OC-2 rip-off. Small, cheap, and good. Hmmm 🤔

Just bought a set of tuners from Dan. All good in the basshood! 🕺🏻

Ahhh! I get you. Thanks for the tip. Everything seems that be in order there 🙂

Aye, I’d be able to get a good impression of the middle and bottom pieces, but only a tiny bit of the top one. I’d do that first if it came to it, sure. For now though, I’ve decided to leave it black. It’s shabby enough like that 😀

Thank you! I’ll need to re-seat the bridge, as it’s squint, sure. What do you mean by ‘proper-polarised’?

I just picked this up for £65. Indian-made E83 from the 80’s/90’s. Fender-style headstock, block string tree, hardwood body. Great neck, with a beautiful flame through the maple. The rosewood on the fretboard is really high quality, beautiful and dark. Frets are almost perfect and the ends are smooth enough. It’s a very heavy bass. I took the neck off, and sanded the paint back in the neck pocket, finding that the body is made of a dark hardwood. Not similar to the sanded one photographed earlier, but a more even and darker brown, almost like rosewood. The pots, input jack, and wiring have been upgraded. I’m just deciding what else to do with it. I was thinking of sanding it back to the bare wood, doing an oil/wax finish, and putting a tort scratch plate on there. Not sure how consistently the three pieces of wood will match on the body though. It’s a lottery with these, I guess. There’s only one way to find out and, once you do, it’s too late to turn back. I had been thinking about changing the pups for a set of SD Quarter Pounders but, to be perfectly honest, the stock pickups sound great, so I’d probably leave them be, and just keep it as it is (but with a tort guard and vintage-style brass bridge saddles). Hmmmm? Decisions Decisions ... Either way, this is every bit a P-Bass, in tone and feel. The essential vibe is totally intact. Absolutely no need to have spent any more. I love it 🙂

The Warwick Porn thread isn’t the place to be tearing someone’s pride and joy to shreds, even if it is a ‘joke’. I appreciate that you edited your post though, @Marcoelwray

Can anyone recommend me a wide leather strap that is smooth (not grippy) on the inside?

Ha! No ... because you’re eventually going to cave in and sell me your fretless 😀

Streamer Pro M (1998). For someone who loves both Streamers and Stingrays, this feels like the perfect bass. It’s possibly my all-time favourite. The first of them had wenge necks and only one preamp, which were soon replaced by the ovangkol/ twin preamp models. The controls on this are stacked Bass/ Treble, Pickup Blend, and Volume (with push/ pull Passive Switch). When in passive mode, tone is controlled via the pickup blend. The tonal range of the Pro M is deceptively broad. It’s very versatile, given how closely the twin J pickups sit together within that single housing. There’s a hum-cancelling dummy coil between the pickups too, so it’s very clean sounding when on one pickup or the other. This bass is the very definition of ‘punchy’ 🙂

Can anyone recommend me a strap with a smooth inside that doesn’t stick to the shoulder? Straps with a suede or rough leather finish grip too much. I’m after something that slides over my shoulder, instead of pulling the neck of my t-shirt half way down my chest.

More of the twins 😀😀 ... There may be a third on its way!

Bought a pedal from Si. All good and happy. 🏆

Oh wow. That’s amazing. What a resource. Great work! I’m obsessive too man. I get it 🏆 Also, I’ll measure up my Aria SB’s if you want that data for the spreadsheet?

Just wondering if any of you folks who own a Precision or a Stingray could measure the distance from the 12th fret to the centre point of the pickup for me please? If you’ve got a Jazz (I know they vary), could you do the same on both pickups, and let me know what model it is? Ta’